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Question about Woods Porting?

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Shrug, Aug 17, 2010.

  1. Shrug

    Shrug ArboristSite Member

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    Hey guys, I am new to this site. Anyway, I recently bought a Husqvarna 390XP and I am very interested in getting it woods ported. Until I discovered this site I did not even know that such a thing existed, but now knowing that it does, I really wanna get some work done to my saw.

    My main question is this. Who do you guys recommend I have do the work to my saw? I figured this would be the best place to ask about this kind of thing. I have seen a few names thrown around regarding this topic on this site in other posts, that is how I found out about porting in the first place.

    My 390XP is currently my only saw, and I would really love to get it running to the best of its potential so that I can achieve a higher rate of production with it. That, and I am also going to a 36" bar very soon and I would like to have the extra power so that it does not get bogged down ever.

    I also read that if done correctly not only is the power and production increased, but so is the life of the saw due to things such as heat reduction. That is definitely something I wanna experience.

    Anyway, I hope you guys can help me out here. I look forward to hearing from you on this subject.
     
    Wild Knight and dk27 like this.
  2. mdavlee

    mdavlee Tree Freak

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    Treeslingr and Brad are two that are site sponsors. There is enough knowledge on here to do it yourself it you want to. You could do a simple muffler mod yourself and see if that's enough for you.
     
  3. Shrug

    Shrug ArboristSite Member

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    Thanks, I sent Tree Sling'r a PM. Also, I would be very interested in learning how to do this kind of work myself. I wonder what may be the best way to go about becoming good at this type of modding. Would just doing some basic research on here and then practicing on saws be about the best way to go do you think? I am sure that learning from someone with experience would be the best way when it comes right down to it, however I do not have the luxury of that available to me. What would be the next best plan of attack?
     
  4. AUSSIE1

    AUSSIE1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Doing the actual work is not a difficult thing.

    As to what to do, plenty here can guide you along the way. Plenty of port jobs have been successfully done like this.

    First up you need a rotary tool and bits/burs etc and make yourself a degree wheel.

    Your biggest tool is that search function though.
     
  5. pops21

    pops21 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I thought woods porting was just widening up the exhaust and intake?
     
  6. nmurph

    nmurph ArboristSite.com Sponsor

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    there are degrees of woods porting and anytime you adjust squish, part of most woods ports, you change the timing. sometimes not enough to matter, sometimes it does.
     
  7. AUSSIE1

    AUSSIE1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    There has been a thread on this before.

    You can do what ever you like but basically if it's completely usable as a woods saw.

    If you are going to go to the trouble to remove the barrel and grind, you might as well degree it for such a simple procedure and get your timing right.

    Sure you can do just widening, but for those that take the effort to go that little further, can be rewarded.
     
  8. mdavlee

    mdavlee Tree Freak

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    I just widen the intake and exhaust, open up the transfers a little and widen the upper part towards the intake, then do a mufler mod. I've never degreed a saw yet. I probably won't unless I'm trying for a racesaw or cookie cutter.
     
  9. pops21

    pops21 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    How in the heck do you get tools up in the transfers. The intake and exhaust are easy but I can't see a good way to reach the upper transfers.
     
  10. mdavlee

    mdavlee Tree Freak

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    I use a little stone that's 3/32" thick and about 3/4" across on a dremel flexshaft. You can use a little cutoff wheel but they will dig in a little easier if you're not real light handed. If you want I'll take pictures for you. A 288 cylinder has 2 port transfers instead of four like the later huskys right?
     
  11. pops21

    pops21 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Yep 2 port transfers. I would love to see some posted 288 pics. I started mine last night. I'll post some pics in my 288 thread tonight of the progress.
     
  12. mdavlee

    mdavlee Tree Freak

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    I don't have a 288 cylinder but I do have a 390 cylinder setting here. I can take some pictures of the tooling for you. I split the cases on the extra 390 bottom end I've got last night. Cleaned it up today in some purple power and then dawn. It got most of the grime off it. I've still not decided if I'll rebuild it or just keep the extra parts for the other one.
     
  13. pops21

    pops21 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I know exactly what your talking about with the cutting wheel. I never thought of that.:) I know I can reach the lower transfer. I've just been scratching my head about the upper part. Thanks for the tip.
     
  14. mdavlee

    mdavlee Tree Freak

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    On the 4 port transfers I like the dremel bit that looks like a drill bit almost. It works real good to get all the way down into the transfers where it turns into the cylinder.
     
  15. nate cutter

    nate cutter ArboristSite Operative

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    Being your only saw I would by a cheapo garage sale saw. Tune and time it then port and open up the exhaust. Then re-time the saw using same wood same chain. good luck
     
  16. pops21

    pops21 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Thats actually the bit I was using last night to widen the ex. and in. :cheers:
     
  17. mdavlee

    mdavlee Tree Freak

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    I've been using 1/4" carbide cutters in dewalt end grinder for most of the widening.
     
  18. AUSSIE1

    AUSSIE1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Using a degree wheel in a woods ported saw is no less a tool than with a racesaw.

    You not having used a degree wheel doesn't mean it's not worth the little effort. If you haven't used one, how would you know of it's benefits?

    Don't grind up in the transfers. It's not only not necessary but you could hurt flow if you haven't had considerable experience. Just match your lower transfers to the bottom end. Don't worry about your uppers at this stage.

    Do yourself a favor and search and read on the degreeing. If you decide to do this we can help along the way. If you decide not go this route, leave it till next time.
     
  19. pops21

    pops21 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    On my 288 the transfers start up in the cylinder. :monkey:
     
  20. AUSSIE1

    AUSSIE1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Yep, different setup.

    With the 390 go wide at the exhaust and don't change the duration. The inlet can do with some increased duration to better match your now better breathing exhaust plus a little widening. With your lowers use your base gasket as a template. Place it on your bottom end and you can see that it's a pretty good fit. Now place it on the cyl base and notice the mismatch. This is what you need to blend in so it matches the bottom end. Don't take it too far up into the transfers. You don't want to hurt velocity or flow. With the base gasket removed and a muffler mod you will be pleasantly surprised.
     

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