Questions on making first cut with CSM

[pepe_silvia]

For you guys with Alaskan type mills, how do you secure your rails to the log to make the first cut? If you're using screws, how do you make sure they don't end up in the line of fire?

 

[Bryce c tyrrell]

I'm fairly new here too. But I've done a few oak logs. I just used 3 inch screws and tried my best to angle them straight into the log instead of down. So far I'm batting a 1000.

 

[pepe_silvia]

I'm fairly new here too. But I've done a few oak logs. I just used 3 inch screws and tried my best to angle them straight into the log instead of down. So far I'm batting a 1000.

What kind of rails are you using?

 

[Bryce c tyrrell]

Simple straight 2×4s nothing special. I made sure they were true and longer then what my logs were. My oak l9gs were only 20 inches in diameter. So an aluminum ladder was just a bit wide to sit on them the way I wanted. But I kept it simple.

 

[BobL]

Simple straight 2×4s nothing special. I made sure they were true and longer then what my logs were. My oak l9gs were only 20 inches in diameter. So an aluminum ladder was just a bit wide to sit on them the way I wanted. But I kept it simple.

Using independent or separate 2x4 is a good way of producing a twisted slab. The rails should be hard pinned together like a ladder or a sturdy frame that grabs the log at the ends - this is why CSMillers do this.
Some folks like me use the frame for every cut.

 

[Bryce c tyrrell]

Agreed. Sorry guys I did forget to mention that I put 4 cross 2×s like a ladder panel. I was trying to make a point that I used very straight ones. I forgot to elaborate on the rest of the set up. Good catch bob.

 

[steve easy]

End boards, string line and lag bolts. A 1.2m long bit of 20mm ply 300mm wide with angle iron glued underneath. Dont use lag bolts longer than the end boards and you wont hit them.

 

[chuckwood]

For you guys with Alaskan type mills, how do you secure your rails to the log to make the first cut? If you're using screws, how do you make sure they don't end up in the line of fire?

Here's how I do mine. I take a level and mark a line on each end of the log. This line will be maybe a 1/4 inch or so above where the saw bar will begin cutting that very first bark covered top slab off. I use a circular saw set at 1 1/2" depth of cut and I cut that line on each end of the log (which has squared off ends). Then I cut down from the top with a chainsaw, an inch and one half back from the end of the log, and cut all the way down to the first cut made by the circular saw. This leaves me with a notch cut out on each end of the log, the bottom of the notches will be perfectly level. That will make it easy to then fit a 13 1/2 inch long piece of 2x6 or 2x8 into the notch I just made and I fasten it on onto each end of what will be that very first top slab with 3 inch long decking screws. Those pieces will be exactly perpendicular to the log. It goes very quick with a powerful cordless drill and self tapping screws. So I now have two level "ears" fastened onto each end of that top slab. I go half in with another decking screw onto the lower part of the end of one of the "ears" (can't think of anything better to call 'em right now). That way, there's something for my 2x4 rail to rest on to hold it in place while I walk over to the other end and attach the 2x4 rails on to each outer face of the 2x8 ear. Then go back to the other end of the rail, lift it up level and attach it the same way. Do the same for the other rail. It goes fast and you don't need to mess with ladders and metal rail contraptions. You rail is level because what it's attached to is perfectly level. Sight down to make sure it's not sagging and make that first slabbing cut with the CSM. If you like, you can attach an additional support in the middle with a short piece of board, being careful to keep any screws out of the way of the chain. Dunno if this makes any sense, pics would probably help, don't have any handy right now.

 

[BobL]

[QUOTE="chuckwood, post: 5615439, member: 20994] . . . . . . Then go back to the other end of the rail, lift it up level and attach it the same way. .[/QUOTE]
I tried this method on a few logs and found it's like building and dismantling a sort of a ladder every time a log is started.
On top of that there's decking screws embedded in the log to worry about.
After hitting screws several times I gave up and went back to steel log rails with adjustable ends.
On symmetrical logs, log rails with adjustable ends are much quicker to setup and dismantle, and on uglier shaped logs it's about as fast.

 

[Shawn Curry]

I bought the rails from granberg - don't judge me... For what I do, they were worth every penny. My little basement workshop is a little under 20'x20', so I can really only handle stuff 8' long max anyway. And that's what I cut all my logs to basically, so the 9' length is all I need. Each one of the cross pieces has a dawg and 4 positions for set screws. They only give you 6 of those, but I made a whole bunch extra from some 3/8" threaded rod. That makes it really easy to set up and secure in place - I 'rough out' where I need to position it, dawg it down, and then tighten the set screws into final position. It stays in place nice and solid, and it's quite accurate if you make all of the adjustments properly. Regarding screws or metal getting in the way, there's been a couple times that I've cut a bowed log, and didn't plan my first slab deep enough to miss the middle dawg. I just had to pull the dawg on my way through.