Quick / Easy EAB application for homeowner

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Douggg

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Hi - i'm homeowner, and called arborjet this morning to ask about their products. They told me tree-age G4 and TreeIV, and about $1300 for the both. I just want to treat my own 2 ash trees, and not have expensive system for future. Is there an easy and effective spray or soil drench method and chemical? Thanks
 
Are the trees in good shape now? Are there dying trees in your immediate vicinity? That would influence my answer. If you are ahead of this, I have seen great results with just imidacloprid. Tree-Age certainly does a better job. If you are looking at cost:benefit and hiring treatment with Tree-Age every other year or hiring imidacloprid application every year, I think it makes sense to use Tree-Age. If you are looking at cost:benefit comparing YOU treating with either, and just using 2 trees, I don't think you can justify the initial equipment purchase. So, now you are looking at you treating with imidacloprid vs. hiring Tree-Age. If you are comfortable with it, use imidacloprid applied right around the base of the trunk.

I only used dinotefuran if the first call for treatment came in the middle of the summer. It moves into the tree very fast. We'd plan to move to another treatment plan for the future. It is an expensive chemical to put on an annual treatment schedule when imidacloprid works just as well (but, again, neither is as effective as Tree-Age - especially under heavy infestation pressure)
 
Hi - i'm homeowner, and called arborjet this morning to ask about their products. They told me tree-age G4 and TreeIV, and about $1300 for the both. I just want to treat my own 2 ash trees, and not have expensive system for future. Is there an easy and effective spray or soil drench method and chemical? Thanks
Depends on how advanced the insect damage is as to what you can treat it with for help. If damage is not evident or only begining you can do a soil drench with Imidacloprid.75WSP. it's 34.00 plus shipping for 4 packets, that'll drench 48 inches of caliper. (Measurement across the tree at chest height - not around, just side to side - diameter. ) If the tree is already dying 10-30% you need a faster control. Hire an arborist to inject the tree with Arbor-systems or Arbor jet's Ememectin Benzoate. Fast killing and works for 2-3 years. It's not a chemical or a system you want to mess with as a non-professional. (I sell all 3, contact me if you like, [email protected])
 
i haven't seen damage, but believe there has been reported damage maybe 15-40 miles away (just been told it is in my county). i have a couple trees, i'd guess at least 3 ft in diameter, so i don't want to lose them. the trees never look great. the bigger one doesn't seem to have a lot of leaves, but maybe that is how the species is. it has maybe more than it's fair share of low branches dying, middle of trunk rotted, but an arborist came out last year and didn't think it was that bad and no treatment recommended. on my second ash, slightly smaller, the leader split into 3 at about 11 foot high, and all three of those sub-leader branches (2 ft wide and 25-30 ft tall) came down over 2 years, just leaving an 11 foot stump. but new growth has been coming out. i should add a picture and ask you guys about it for a second opinion. the arborist that came out laughed and said it might survive.
 
That split tree doesn't sound like it is worth investing to save, even if you could. Post a pic. Just because they are big, doesn't make them great trees...certainly work asking "do I really want this tree"?

Once you decide to treat: begin when EAB is within 50 miles. If it is known to be within 25 miles, but not known to be right there.....I'll bet it IS there. It is hard to find for the first 2-3-4 years it is in an area. Then once trees start coming down, you can find evidence of infestations that pre-date "first reported infestation"

imidacloprid: I prefer the 2F formulation because it is easier to measure the exact amount per tree. the 75 WSP (or WSB) works just as well...just a personal preference.
 
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