Rayco rg 50 super

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outdoorsman0490

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does anyone have one of these? How do you like it. There is one close to me for sale with the 65 duetz and the grader blade.

I have a 97 rayco rg1642 with 42 duetz. Works good, but was looking into more Hp and self propelled.
 
Do it. Company I worked for had a rayco tow behind, I think that model. Traded for a rg50 4x4. Well worth it. Able to get to more stumps, from various angles, on wet ground without tracking up yards as bad. Traded that for a big bandit self propelled. They have since traded the bandit for a rg90. The blade is real nice if you clean grinding up

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I have a rg50 (48hp) and have a lot of hours on a super rg50 (66hp). Both are solid grinders and really do well for power, yet remaining agile. How much money is the machine? I would look at big carltons too.
 
Dudes asking 19,500. He is a service guy and bought this one and another from a large company who bought a brand new large one.
The other grinder he bought had low hours too, the company had them but didn't use them often. And this guy serviced them for years.
He replaced the cog belt, the hydro pump, new pulleys, new starter; everything it needed I guess.

I would look into seeing if he would take my rayco as a trade, or would sell and offset some of this one.

I grind a day a week or so, but would like to do more stumps
 
need to run the. drive pumps are known for going out on them stump grinder. i just replaced one
 
Did the pillow block bearings that support the grinding wheel get replaced also?

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Going tomorrow, hopefully everything is good.

I never ran one before. But I believe the head is the same size as my 1642, but the head should be almost twice as thick. I would have to think having 65hp verses the 42hp is going to make it really chew verses what I am used to
 
The 1642 is a 3cyl. direct drive. The super is a four cylinder hydraulically driven. Makes a BIG difference in noise, vibration and power.
If this machine is legit, it's a bargain.
 
I checked it out last night. Looks good, runs even better.
Started easy, no smoke, quite, no smoke when revved up. Had new cutter head bearings, he did put a new hydraulic pump in it, new bushings, etc. left a deposit and going to pick it up Sunday morning.
 
Congrats! You will love it.
I have read every written word on the super 50, (seriously, I think I have) from what I have seen the number one cause of failure is poor maintenance practices. While that seems to be a "captain obvious" moment, there are plenty of machines out there that fail even when the owner does everything right. My super was purchased from a man in Florida. I have no doubt he is a force to be reckoned with in all that he does including stump grinding. Admittedly, his maintenance standards were above those that I adhered to. Who better to buy a valuable piece of equipment from? I currently attempt to honor his practices. (sorry John, I have not waxed the hood in over a year!)

My longevity list for the Super 50:
1) Blow off the entire machine before every trip out.
Overheating for this machine is catastrophic. They call it "air cooled", but the hydraulic oil cools the motor. If there is no air passing through the evaporator coil (radiator), there is no cooling. Seems obvious but it is still the biggest cause of premature engine failure in these machines. The ability to cool is hindered by the rest of the engine compartment/ oil pan being covered in dirt as well. Blow off every square inch! In this process you will detect problems before they become big problems. Oil, fuel, hydraulic leaks usually start small.

2) Keep it parked indoors.
Yep, my truck sleeps outside. My equipment gets unloaded and parked in the barn every night. One drop of oil/fuel will not hit the ground without detection. The instruments/wiring only suffer rain while on the job. No UV on the fiberglass and gauges except when its making money.

3) Check oil levels, air pressure, clean air cleaner every trip out. Develop a grease schedule based on hours and stick to it. Buy filters by the case quantity. You get a better price. Never let your schedule suffer because you don't have a filter on the shelf.

4) Mark filters with the date and hours. Change (outer) air , oil and filter every 100 hours, inner every 300 hours depending on your conditions. No cheap oil! , give it the good stuff. 2 1/2 gallons every time... As far as rest of the machine, let your experience and the manual guide you. I change the fuel filters every 200 hours and the hydraulic filters every 4-500 hours. Don't forget to check/change gear oil in the wheel drive motors. This machine has a timing belt! 1500 - 2000 hours I think.

5) Keep the teeth sharp. For all the same reasons you put a file to a chainsaw... Power, fuel, productivity... You can rotate or change all 6 lead teeth in less than 10 minutes and be throwing 6" ribbons instead of dust. Deal with full tooth changes when you are back in the shop. Air tools, radio and a good cigar!

6) Operator awareness. I don't wear ear protection. No radio... I have to hear the machine. It will tell you what's going on, when you are pushing too hard. When you are into something that should not be ground - rock, metal ect. If you smell something unusual, shut it down (cutter head) and pop the hoods and check it out. I saved my 50 from burning to the ground because I trusted my nose. I stopped a blown fuel hose from draining the tank because I smelled it first.

7) Cool down procedure. After a job, I load the machine asap and allow the machine to cool down prior to killing it. Not necessarily at an idle... you want to continue to draw a lot of air over the radiator. Then I will blow off the drive street, change shirts, wash off with a hose... there is always something to do while the machine is cooling down. How long is long enough? I need to plumb a temp gauge in. I give it a solid 5 minutes.

8) The muffler. There is a "muffler blanket" covering the muffler and an asbestos sleeve covering the tail pipe where it exits the hood. These have to be there, and in good condition. Do not buy the factory sleeve for the tail pipe. Use header wrap and copper worm drive clamps. This all keeps the heat out of the engine compartment. This machine generate A LOT of heat. Like you will not be handling the controls without gloves, kind of heat.

Hey, good luck with it! I hope you got a good one!
 
Thanks. I did a lot of those things already with my current grinder. But I will be sure to open the hoods and blow everything out well every time; and the air filter.
I agree with warm up and cool down. Some stumps I go there is way more time doing these than doing the grinding.

No ear protection? No way, I can grind with my grinder with my ears in, and really not having to look, just off the sound.

I wanted to put this grinder in my dump trailer so I can put grindings in when I have too. What do you figure re sale is on the rayco trailer it is coming with? It is built real well and is in real good shape, but I am pretty sure I am going to try to sell it.
 
Hey top,

Are all your green teeth pockets angled. On tree stuff they have 2 setups for this machine, one has 6 straight pockets, one has 4. What's your setup
 
Trailer is really nice, quick on quick off easy to maneuver, it is just heavy as hell for such a small trailer. Thats not a bad this, means it should last and not fall apart.

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Hey top,

Are all your green teeth pockets angled. On tree stuff they have 2 setups for this machine, one has 6 straight pockets, one has 4. What's your setup
I'm running 6 straights in the lead position. the reverse pockets wont work on a 1 1/2" wheel. 1100s... they will recommend 900s . Don't know what to tell you there. Been running 11oos with no problems on this Super and the RG 50.
 
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