Rebuilding Stihl 360

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bower4311

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Hey all,

I have a 360 that wasn't running great. I'm in college bored as hell so I'm going to take this as an opportunity to replace some of the common problems and pull it apart to clean it and inspect it. Here's a list of what I'm going to replace, I need to know where the best place to get them is.

Carb Kit
Fuel line, impulse hose and filter
Intake Manifold
New rings and base gasket
Oil seals?

I've taken apart my 260, I didn't have a piston stop at the time so I never got to the crankcase stuff, but I'm looking to learn how to do it.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I've done a lot of searching here and I plan on usin the piston stop but I'm aware of that method


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Do not use a thread-in metal piston stop. Use one of the plastic ones that slides in. If you have access to a cordless or air impact driver you can remove the flywheel nut and clutch without a piston stop at all.
 
I've done a lot of searching here and I plan on usin the piston stop but I'm aware of that method


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Carb Kit - Ebay/Dealer
Fuel line, impulse hose and filter - Dealer
Intake Manifold - OEM would prob be best (dealer), but they're probably a lot cheaper on ebay.
New rings - Caber rings from Weedeaterman.com
Base gasket - Dealer, get the "gasket/seal kit". It will come with oil seals, base gasket, crankcase gasket and muffler gasket.
Oil seals?- See "Base gasket" above
 
Carb Kit - Ebay/Dealer
Fuel line, impulse hose and filter - Dealer
Intake Manifold - OEM would prob be best (dealer), but they're probably a lot cheaper on ebay.
New rings - Caber rings from Weedeaterman.com
Base gasket - Dealer, get the "gasket/seal kit". It will come with oil seals, base gasket, crankcase gasket and muffler gasket.
Oil seals?- See "Base gasket" above

Thank you, that's just the answer I was looking for.
 
DO NOT BUY THE CARB KIT FROM THE DEALER> I bought one for an 036 last week and it was $22. Get the ring and carb kit from Weedeaterman, get the rest from your dealer. BTW, I've had very good luck with aftermarket seals. I know that on the Husky saws they are identical at 10x--same mold marks and manufacturer's mark. I've been using them for several years and have never had a complaint from a customer.

Ditch (or make a new, thinner) base gasket. I believe I put my last one together with an aluminum can gasket.
 
Weedeaterman - Caber Rings $17
Carb Kit $12
AM Intake Boot $10
Set of Gaskets Dealer $13
Fuel Hose Filter Dealer $18

Total=$70

I might opt for only replacing what is necessary. Bit pricey for all.
 
Good advice so far. Dealer rings will be a lot more expensive than cabers. I use soft nylon rope for a piston stop, make sure it is CLEAN and does not hang into a port.

Look over the air filter, AV mounts, inspect/grease the clutch bearing, true the bar rails, chain and rim if needed, spark plug, clean oil tank and pickup.

If you get bored cleanup the exhaust port, match the muffler, and open up the outlets and baffle. Check squish, see if you can run W/O base gasket.
 
It was running a little rough. It was also pretty cold at the time. I just need to go through it and check things out/learn how to take a saw apart. It's getting new rings, possibly aluminum can gasket or w/o after I check squish. I have the same loctite that Mastermind uses for when I took the cylinder off my 260 and he fixed my screwed up port job. I'm sure that will work where needed. I'll inspect all hoses and replace where necessary. Getting a carb kit for sure though.
 
Here is where I am so far with disassembling this saw. I'm interested in replacing piston rings and a carb kit. I don't have the wrench yet to remove the cylinder. If I disassemble further will I run into more parts I need to purchase? Base gasket if I have to. I want to learn how to tear apart a saw and also clean this up and check what I need to. I figure I need to take the clutch off? I have the stoppers for the piston as seen in the pictures. How do I use them? What should I do next?



 
There's no need to remove the clutch or FW to replace the rings. You need a long-reach t27 to get the cylinder bolts out. However, if you are into the saw this far, spend a few dollars and a little time to replace the crank seals. To do that, you will have to get the clutch and FW off.
 
Yeah I was going to replace whatever necessary to tear it apart. I want to take the clutch off. The T27 is on it's way. What's the next step for removing the clutch?


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Put piston stop in and turn "right" direction of arrow on clutch to remove it. Pretty straight forward. I use a 3/8 impact to take mine off. I install by hand with using rope method in cylinder. I have read to many times about people putting holes in pistons so I avoid piston stops all together.
 
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