Remington Super 754 Problems

[happysaws]

I've got a Remington Super 754, I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb. It will start and idle well, and cut okay with a little smoke when the saw is held upright with the bar parallel to the ground.

When the saw is running at WOT with the bar pointing towards the ground, the saw will run very lean and fast, and eventually die.

When the saw is running at WOT and the bar is pointing up, like you are brushing above your head with it, it will run very rich, smoke a ton and die.

When the saw is running at WOT and the saw is tipped on it's side, like your cutting a stump with it, it will run okay with a little smoke. With the saw tipped on it's other side, I get the same result.

So...
What causes this? Seals? Reed-Valves? Carburetor? The P/C are in good condition, and it has strong compression. It makes hot spark with a new plug. I also cleaned the tank vent and checked the fuel line for cracks.
I know how to tune the carb...

I already restored/painted this saw, so I wanted to pinpoint the problem before I scratch all of the shiny paint trying to fix it...

Any help is appreciated!
[emoji3]

 

[Modifiedmark]

No offense here intended at all, but I continually scratch my head at folks who think they can just rebuild the carb, file the points and expect a 40 year old saw to run like intended, like it was new.

Your description of your saw makes me sure you should have put a set of crank seals in the saw before you done all that work to it. 2 cycle engines are very dependent on the crankcase to be sealed up tight to run right. Never mind what could be cracked or what gasket has shrunk up and could be leaking vacumm.

Here is a picture of the PTO seals I just changed the other day in a 1961 vintage saw. It was from a Poulan FD and actually uses 2 seals back to back but that makes no difference what brand saw, they all are the same in this respect.

When I pulled the seal retainer, the complete rubber sealing ring fell out of the outer metal case.

Looking at the other outer seal, its plain to see this seal wasn't going to seal anything.

The other issue I think that makes people hesitant to change seals is where to get parts for a 40-50 year old saw, well it takes some work sometimes but I have not found many seals that could not be measured and matched up to new seals.

In fact, myself and others have been doing this for a while and keep track of what seals cross to which, post a thread here asking for seal numbers and someone just might be able to help you with the right seals.

Like I said, I'm not meaning to rag on you, just pointing this out for others as well.

 

[tomdcoker]

I have never heard of a saw having the variety of ailments mentioned. I think you have more than one problems. Number one would be an air leak. aka different results in different positions. Number two would be a possible bar oil leak into crank case. A little smoke can be normal depending o how the carb is set and on how much oil mix you are using.
I agree with Modifiedmark that you need seals and if you replace them I would do a pressure/vacuum check before I tried to run it. I have two super 754 saws and one or two Super 660. I used one of the Super 660 saw several years back to cut a tree and when I got home I removed the chain to sharpen it and noticed some movement in the sprocket. I checked and there was a eight inch move in the shaft. The saw ran fine. I could not believe it did not have an air leak so bad that it would run. Tom

 

[Modifiedmark]

One other thing that gets overlooked a lot because they don't come in the HL RK kits is the packing for the carb adjusting needles.

Like old dried out seals, those packings can leak and cause problems, but mostly I have found them to cause bad idle problems, more then running problems.

 

[happysaws]

Thanks guys, I'll get a set of seals on the way and go from there.

 

[happysaws]

Sooo...
What seal puller do y'all recommend?
TIA.

 

[cbfarmall]

I generally use a screwdriver and try to pry the seal up and out. Usually have to go around in a few spots. You can also drill into the seal shell, thread in a couple screws and pry against those. Worst case, you split the saw. PTO side is easy since removing the drum provides all sorts of clearance.

In case you couldn't track down seal numbers.

 

[happysaws]

I generally use a screwdriver and try to pry the seal up and out. Usually have to go around in a few spots. You can also drill into the seal shell, thread in a couple screws and pry against those. Worst case, you split the saw. PTO side is easy since removing the drum provides all sorts of clearance.

In case you couldn't track down seal numbers.

View attachment 569810

Thanks for that.

 

[ML12]

I'd also add, make sure the lip of the clutch drum that the seal rides on is smooth. Just touch it up with some emery cloth if its rough. I'm assuming that its got that clutch/seal configuration like my bantam.

 

[happysaws]

I'd also add, make sure the lip of the clutch drum that the seal rides on is smooth. Just touch it up with some emery cloth if its rough. I'm assuming that its got that clutch/seal configuration like my bantam.

Yep... Just like the Bantam. PL-6/7 are the same way.

 

[ctcown]

I see the seals are skf. Who are the brgs made by.


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[Brufab]

Following hi happysaws I bought a pl4 off ya! Looking at a super 754 now if the guy holds his end of the deal!