ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
I should move to the short tree areas lol, I'm getting older they would seem like cake n cookies
Removal Advice and pricing
- Thread starter Dr. Cornwallis
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ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
My winch would be straight behind the lean of that tree and would prefer to fell it that way also .
Jeffsaw
ArboristSite Operative
That's exactly the way I like to pull down leaners.
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
Definitely the safest way to drop a leaner that is going anywhere but with the lean. I always try to do perfectly against the lean whenever possible
Dr. Cornwallis
ArboristSite Member
I don't have a winch, however I was planning on using a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage and wedges having my groundsman put tension on the line. Would this also be appropriate?
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
lol, I meant by myself cut n chip n load. haha mds i'm gettin soft markin treesAn all day flopper??
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
I would prefer a bit more pull than a 2 to 1 a 5 to 1 minimum or a redirect and the truck, one thing you cannot afford is not enough pull on a leaner. I prefer it to start moving when i have 1 to 1-1/2 inch of hinge wood left. If it does not move a little by then I apply a bit more pull on my 3/4 stable braid or my winch and if it moves i winch it on over slowly until I know i can horse it! I sometimes ratchet bind the trunk to stop chair as well.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
Use a 5-1 or a truck.
Richard Magargal
Treebiz
it appears as if you could fell the tree away from the structures. Using a half inch or larger synthetic rope tie it at the place where the branches fork off the main trunk, about halfway up. If possible attach a truck to the line put a slight pressure on it. Make your face cut, then slowly make the back cut having the truck keeping a good strain on the pull line. Do not cut through your hinge. Wind direction can be a hindrance or a help, be sure to check it's directions. Be sure to Google how to make the felling cut properly. Hopefully you have truckA little about me first: I'm a career firefighter who currently owns and operates a medium sized lawn care business on the side. I cater to higher end homes in the suburbs and rural areas. A few months ago I decided to add tree care and removal to my lawn business as I've had a lot of customers as well as just random people ask me if I did it. I've added the necessary insurance to my plan and obtained a business license in my county. Yesterday, while mowing one of my best clients yards I noticed an oak that had been struggling last year appears to have thrown in the towel. I'm planning to shoot them an e mail with a quote to remove it, however, I had some questions first.
I've taken down several trees with my father, however, none have ever had any penalty for failure as far as adjacent structures or hazards. Also, in the past I've never climbed, we have always used a JLG boom lift. I'm new to climbing and have been practicing SRT around my property with equipment borrowed from a friend at work.
For the real pros, my question is: would you climb this tree or utilize a lift?
As an amateur, my plan is to use a two man crew, me in the loft with a saw and a ground man to lower stuff. I would use the boom lift to get up there, set rigging to a higher branch and then take the branches apart in sections from the lift until it's down to the stump at which point I'll fell it in sections.
I haven't measured yet but the tree is approx 20" DBH. It's freshly dead/dying so it shouldn't be rotten. I plan to keep as much of the stump as I can for milling as it's a good long/straight stump, I think I may be able to get two ten foot sections out of it. I'll keep what I can for firewood too.
I was planning on pricing the job at $1550 without stump grinding.
$350 for lift rental
$200 labor for a ground guy for the day.
$1000 for my profit/business expenses.
With my lawn business I charge $50 an hour, and I figure (based on past experience on my own property) I can have this thing on the ground and cleaned up in well under a day (and I'm slow). So I should be looking at $100/hr. There is no dump fee as I just have to stack it by the street and the homeowner can schedule the county to come pick it up.
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access. If not I believe 2-3 men could pull it successfully. A proper felling cut is essential. Be sure you know how to implement it.
Dr. Cornwallis
ArboristSite Member
I'm familiar with a proper felling cut. I was planning to use a humbolt cut. I have 4x4 Toyota Tacoma so I have a pickup truck as well. It could absolutely be felled away from the structures in one piece, my only concern was the penalty for failure if something went wrong and it fell back into the barns.
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A Toyota Tacoma is not much truck to be pulling trees with weight equals traction witch equals pull.. light trucks can be iffy... the higher the better! If you have to put two ropes higher vs one lower do it. I pull with a tandem axle 40k pound truck, haha, I've yet to be pulled backwards.
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Dr. Cornwallis
ArboristSite Member
No, it's not much truck at all lol. The truck has a curb weight of 4,305 lbs, which I would imagine is about what just the stump weighs and no branches. If I had a medium duty truck like an international 7300 I wouldn't even worry.
If I would have known I'd be doing tree work a year ago when I bought the thing I wouldn't have. It's a great little truck but I'm no doubt a legitimate candidate for a 350/3500 sized diesel truck at a minimum.
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ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
The toyota is plenty pull do you have 3/4 rope ? problem with 1/2 is it can snap. What I usually do is get a decent pretension after notching I pull until its moved the top a good bit but not enough to snap the rope then start back cut cut until there's 1 inch of hingewood left it should be moving some by then and the back cut should have a gap. Put the truck in gear not letting off any pull and put a little more on it, if its moving fairly easy just keep it moving a little at a time until its past the point of no return then you can just keep it moving on over. I have pulled many even larger over with less and 2wd.
Dr. Cornwallis
ArboristSite Member
Biggest I have is 1/2. I think I'll just take it down piece by piece from a lift. I have experience with that method and the most confidence that it can be accomplished safely. If I come across some jobs with less of a penalty for failure, then I'll use it as an opportunity to practice, but being that this job does have a penalty for failure, id rather price it higher and take longer to do it safely than price it lower and get it done quicker and drop the tree on the shed.
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If you can break a half inch double braid with a tacoma I'll be impressed.
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
I couldn't break 1/2" stablebraid with my bobcat 773 on pavement with a 2k pound log in the grapple for traction. Other end was hooked to a large cottonwood in a lake through a pulley in a tree for lift
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
I could
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
I've pulled em with 1/2 but I prefer the extra safety margin. Yes you must do it however your confident. If its on Jakers insurance I'll use 1/2
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