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removing 036 base gasket

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by mbayer, Jul 12, 2010.

  1. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    If I leave out the base gasket do i need to do anything with the ports and or transfers to compensate for moving the piston up in the cylinder? I plan on an extremely mild port job anyways but mainly want to know about the transfers.
     
  2. mtngun

    mtngun Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Only sure answer is to put a degree wheel on it, see what it's got, and ask yourself what sort of port timing you'd like it to have.
     
  3. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    I dont have a degree wheeland I cant say that I fully understand port timing. Ive been doing alot of reading but anybody that could explain it to me in a very basic manner would be great:confused:
     
  4. TRI955

    TRI955 I'm the man in the box

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    You should be ok, just make sure you check the squish to make sure you have room. As far as porting goes, just start by widening the exhaust and intake and go from there, make sure you read up on porting do's and do not's.
     
  5. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    I got the squish checking down, havent done it yet but have read a ton gonna go no gasket black permatex and i work in a foundary with a machine shop talk to guys out there gonna have them mill my piston down to needed squish if needed. Some of the porting info is a little hard to understand, this one will be kept basic but im trying to gain a better understanding for later. hopefully without learning it the hard way
     
  6. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    also ive read poeple posting that you can drop compressoin by grinding the intake I would like to make sure I avoid this. does this happenyou riase it too much? Or widen passed the witness marks?
     
  7. mtngun

    mtngun Addicted to ArboristSite

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    OK, at this stage of the game you might be best off not messing with the port timing.

    Typically, setting minimal squish only changes the port timing a degree or two, so it's not a big deal, anyway.

    No need to buy a degree wheel, you can print one out and glue it to an old CD.
     
  8. TRI955

    TRI955 I'm the man in the box

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    Do not touch the floor or the roof of the ports, that's where you can loose you compression. Just widen, do not past the piston skirt when you do this, it will give you good gains with a muffler mod.
     
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  9. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Tree Freak

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    If you leave the intake,exhaust and transfers at the existing heights it will increase your compression and it tends to give the saw more torque. By changing port and transfer heights the RPM range can be altered but if you intend to use the saw as just a work saw I recommend leaving the heights alone and just widen the ports, blend the transfers. Lots of picts and info on threads already posted, the 044 anmd MS 440 cylinders are very close to the 036 for reference.
    Pioneerguy600
     
  10. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    I would agree agree like I siad i would just like to learn more for later, right now I just want to widen the ports a little and smooth out things a little not so much grinding more cleaning up than anything.
     
  11. mtngun

    mtngun Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The intake doesn't have much impact on compression, but the intake does affect the power band. If you lower the intake port, that increases duration and may hurt the low end. Raising the intake port doesn't necessarily hurt but it won't help, either, since most of the flow is on the bottom of the port.

    A simple noobie porting rule is to widen the ports to within 0.100" of the piston skirt. Don't mess with the height of the ports, only the width.

    Another noobie porting rule is not to mess with the upper transfers, until you get more experience.

    You can play with port timing after you have more experience and a better feel for it.
     
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  12. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    Thank you you all great info here learned almost more in the last ten minutes than in the last 3 days of reading. One more questoin just for clarificatoin what exactly is the piston skirt.
     
  13. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Tree Freak

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    The lower part of the piston, from the piston pin cutout on down to the bottom.
    Pioneerguy600
     
  14. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    thanks all rep all around
     
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  15. mbayer

    mbayer ArboristSite Operative

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    except pioner I guess I gotta spread some more around first
     
  16. Mad Professor

    Mad Professor Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You can clean up the windows in the piston too.
     

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