Ripping Chain Question

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LiveEdge

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Hey everyone! First post here. Just found this website while I was googling for an answer...I have to say, there is a plethora of good stuff here!

I have a Stihl MS250C with an 18" bar. Chain has 68 links, .325, .063

I am wanting to get an alaskan mill to rip some lumber and make live edge cuts for furniture I am building. Doing some reading, I have seen that I will need a ripping chain and other posts say I will be just fine with my regular chain, it will just be a little rougher (I have a planer, anyway).

What do you all recommend? I was looking at ripping chains and I am downright confused on what to get...any advice and any recommendation would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you're going to stay with the 18" bar you'll be able to mill ~10" with an alaskan mill and if you're doing it for personal use and already have the planer, stay with the regular chain. The MS250 is a small saw, don't know how well it will do milling. If you were going to get a +60cc saw and run a 25" bar then skip chain is the way to go. If you keep your chain sharp and rakers even the regular chain will do just fine.
 
You can find what you need here
https://www.shforestrysupplies.com/advancedwebpage.aspx?cg=2802&cd=5&LastStraightCategory=Chainsaw Accessories&SBCatPage==

I've used SH Forestry before, they do a good job. Will answer any product question you have via phone or email.

But regular chain will do the job too. Just be sure to keep it sharp sharp sharp.

And understand that a MS250 will be under-powered in harder wood. Ripping 8 or 10" pine will probably be OK, but even that runs risks with overheating with a small saw. So let the saw rest at idle often to let the internal fan cool it down. And if this is to be more than an occasional board or two, consider a bigger saw.

Maybe before investing in a mill you should try to do a couple freehand rip cuts with your saw with regular freshly-sharpened chain to see if you're OK with the power/results.
 
You can find what you need here
https://www.shforestrysupplies.com/advancedwebpage.aspx?cg=2802&cd=5&LastStraightCategory=Chainsaw Accessories&SBCatPage==

I've used SH Forestry before, they do a good job. Will answer any product question you have via phone or email.

But regular chain will do the job too. Just be sure to keep it sharp sharp sharp.

And understand that a MS250 will be under-powered in harder wood. Ripping 8 or 10" pine will probably be OK, but even that runs risks with overheating with a small saw. So let the saw rest at idle often to let the internal fan cool it down. And if this is to be more than an occasional board or two, consider a bigger saw.

Maybe before investing in a mill you should try to do a couple freehand rip cuts with your saw with regular freshly-sharpened chain to see if you're OK with the power/results.
Good advice but Is SH Foresty a site sponsor? Bailey's also has milling supplies.
 
Thanks, you two! I have done a couple freehanders, in the past, into some elm. It seemed to work well. Took some time -- not awful but not fast; but I'd imagine that will always be the case. Eventually, I will run a bigger saw with the mill. I just wanted to get started on some smaller stuff. 10-12" would be pretty ideal for the things I am doing.

Cheers
 
Doing some reading, I have seen that I will need a ripping chain and other posts say I will be just fine with my regular chain, it will just be a little rougher (I have a planer, anyway).

What do you all recommend? I was looking at ripping chains and I am downright confused on what to get...any advice and any recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

Ripping chain is not essential and neither does it guarantee a better finish.
The 2 factors that have a greater impact on finish are the rigidity of the mill and the operator.
Keep a steady pressure on the mill and don't fang a WOT powerhead back into an existing cut, steadily increase open the throttle while increasing the load.
Don't horizontally seesaw the mill but keep it in the same orientation throughout the cut.
If you want an extra guarantee on finish, consider using the log rails for every cut that way any lumps of sawdust and poor finish on one cut is not transferred to the next cut.
The reduced friction minus the time taken to secure the rails is quicker overall than the extra passes needed through a planer.
 
Don't waste your time and money on a ripping chain yet unless you get a bigger saw and decide to do a lot of milling. My milling chains are Carlton's - essentially standard full comp full chisel cut to 10 degrees instead of 30. I don't notice much difference in using a milling chain vs standard.
 
Do a few slabs with what you have, if you think milling is for you then get a ripping chain..Keep in mind that a ripping chain is not that costly for your bar size..
 
Instead of buying ripping chain, you could make your own, gradually. Normally ground (30 deg.) semi-chisel gives a good surface-finish. Then, at each subsequent filing, you could just "walk" it toward 5-10 deg. in whatever increment you prefer. If you're happy with 30 deg., done deal.

For ripping, you might well prefer a bit more acute cutting angle than "std.", easily accomplished by filing with the file lower relative to the edge. Understand that more acute cutters are more delicate. All this varied filing is super-easy with Granberg file guide, or with a grinder.
 
Ripping chain is not essential and neither does it guarantee a better finish.
The 2 factors that have a greater impact on finish are the rigidity of the mill and the operator.
Keep a steady pressure on the mill and don't fang a WOT powerhead back into an existing cut, steadily increase open the throttle while increasing the load.
Don't horizontally seesaw the mill but keep it in the same orientation throughout the cut.
If you want an extra guarantee on finish, consider using the log rails for every cut that way any lumps of sawdust and poor finish on one cut is not transferred to the next cut.
The reduced friction minus the time taken to secure the rails is quicker overall than the extra passes needed through a planer.
Very accurate advice here^^^^
Also keep the piece you are currently milling wedged up off the non cutting side of the bar/chain. I've milled a ton w/ normal, non ripping specific chain. Here's a preview of the finish on ash.
DSC01387.JPG
 
Good advice but Is SH Foresty a site sponsor? Bailey's also has milling supplies.

No to Baileys unless you can pay cash. Give them a credit card and next thing you know that card will be stolen and buying all sorts of ****.
 
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