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Rope runner question

Discussion in 'Arborist 101' started by jtc16, Jan 5, 2017.

  1. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    I'm thinking about upgrading to a rope runner from my HH2, just wondering if it works well with kernmaster and if it is really a $350 improvement or should I just keep tying hitches
     
  2. benjo75

    benjo75 ArboristSite Operative

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    I just received a Rope Runner around Christmas. I have only used it 2 different times. First time was up and down about 20 ft then up to 75 ft. Then a working climb for a couple hours . Haven't really been able to really use it yet. I'm converting from the Hitchclimber setup with VT and Rope Wrench. Only been climbing SRT for about a year. I'm in a bucket mostly but looking forward to using the RR pretty soon. I've never used the HH2 so I can't comment on the difference there. But coming from the Rope Wrench, I like it better so far. It tends like a dream. It doesn't bind up on long descents like a hitch will. I'm thinking after a few more uses I'm really going to love it. Also don't know about the Kernmaster. I'm using it on 11.5 Lava surge. It works great on it. I haven't made any adjustments yet. It hasn't slipped at all and tends great. I use a Weaver Chest Box. It's $15 and I just wear it all day if I'm climbing a lot. Don't even know it's there. I personally don't like the thoughts of something around my neck.

    Richard Mumford has some great videos about the RR. I watched them before deciding on mine. He also uses different ropes too. I can't seem to post a working link but its under Richard Mumford on Youtube. I can see myself still using hitches in the future but not really sure why. Maybe to keep in practice. The RR is an excellent tool in my opinion.
     
  3. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered one. I use that weaver chest box too, it's the best tending option I know of. I didn't trust that the rope runner was all mechanical at first, but now I like the idea of it better than the HH knots. They've never failed, I just don't like the look of them. I didn't realize you can adjust a rope runner.. surely it can work well with kernmaster, hoping to not need to buy a new rope right now. The only rope setups I've ever climbed are a blakes hitch and the HH2. After using the HH2 i never want to go back to blakes. I'm hoping the rope runner will be so nice I never want to go back to HH2.
     
  4. greengreer

    greengreer ArboristSite Operative

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    I had a hh2, now on the runner. It's great, there isn't much about the hh2 I miss. It takes some getting used to descending, its not exactly like releasing a hitch. It goes up the rope and tends amazingly well. Sometimes too well, you have to throw a slip knot in above sometimes or it will gobble slack. The other thing I miss about the hh2 is how bombproof it is, the runner seems fragile in comparison.
    Never tried kernmaster but you should be able to adjust it to play nicely. It doesn't take much adjustment to completely change how it functions so adjust in very small increments, like 1mm at a time. I would start with the bollard wide open and go from there. I also feel like there is a slight break in period so once you are comfortable with it, bomb out a few times and get some wear going. This is all subjective but it has worked for me and two other climbers I work(ed) with.
     
  5. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    Good to know thanks. I'm guessing the adjusting is layed out in instructions. I don't like the sound of it seeming fragile next to the HH2 but if it's rated for 22kn im not too worried. Sounds nice to be able to bomb down without tearing up cords
     
  6. greengreer

    greengreer ArboristSite Operative

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    It's definitely not just gonna break, it just seems like it could bend if you were to load it heavily around a spar or something, obviously not a real issue. The hh2 I don't think you could break if you tried.
    I can't remember if adjustment is spelled out in the manual but it's not rocket science, you just have to play around with it to find the sweet spot. Everyone and every rope is a bit different.
     
  7. benjo75

    benjo75 ArboristSite Operative

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    This pic is from the manual that came with mine. The Lower Adjustable Friction Bollard can be loosened and moved closer to the Top Quadruple Acting Slic Pin. The rope goes between them. Moving them closer together binds the rope more. Mine came out of the box adjusted all the way open. Mine doesn't slip any on my rope so there's no need for me to adjust it right now. The only adjustment I made was turning the top slic pin around and inserting it in from the right. I like to tend my hitch with my right hand and the excess pin sticking out was poking my hand. Not too bad but it feels better turned around.
     

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  8. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    I saw on a video that you can only use the nylon nuts once. I'm guessing that doesn't apply if you only loosen it a little to adjust? Or you have to use a new nut each time?
     
  9. benjo75

    benjo75 ArboristSite Operative

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    I'm not sure about replacing the nuts after adjusting the bollard. I haven't heard either way. I would think it's ok to adjust it without replacing the nuts every time. This is the only info about replacing the nuts that is in the manual. This is the info about suggested ropes.
     

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  10. greengreer

    greengreer ArboristSite Operative

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    I haven't replaced the nylocks after a few adjustments. If you're concerned with it contact singing tree amd see what they say. Might just be a CYA statement
     
  11. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    Thanks for that. I'm going to call treestuff and ask about the nuts. A treestuf youtube video about replacing RR parts is where I heard to always use new locking nuts. Hopefully it will work well with kernmaster. It is 11mm but 48 strand no 24. I've seen someone on youtube using it without issues though.
     
  12. treebilly

    treebilly ArboristSite Guru

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    It's not singing tree covering their ass. Lock nuts are recommended as one time use for any application. The nylon or steel loses the compression after being turned off and on. I'm also fairly sure it is a common size but that doesn't require special ordering and was not built specifically for this application. It will most likely be fine. Just do your equipment inspections and keep an eye on it.
    Oh and enjoy the RR.
     
  13. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    If you torque the lock nut furthur than it was to start it would only gain compression right? I know nothing about nylon nuts, never used them for anything
     
  14. treebilly

    treebilly ArboristSite Guru

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    The nylon is just on the one edge. It just really compresses against the threads of the bolt. The steel part of the nut still has the holding power. After a few uses the nylon gets worn down from friction and doesn't grab as well
     
  15. jtc16

    jtc16 ArboristSite Operative

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    Treestuff said don't change the lock nuts just to adjust. Only to replace.
     
  16. treebilly

    treebilly ArboristSite Guru

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    Well there ya go. :)
     

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