Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

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fordf150 said:
If you havent owned one yet. Delete the cat, add a .325 16" bar and she will be your new favorite saw. mine gets double or triple the use that all my other saws get combined.
Click to expand...
Already have it in blue... Makita ea4300!

I just need the ea5000 and ea6100 and I'll have the full line in blue!

The 420/421 is nice but... A few mods to a dcs400/390 and I have a nice LIGHT saw. These 421's are kinda heavy for a 40cc saw.

I'm really waiting for a 6100 with heat!!!!!


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nstueve said:
Already have it in blue... Makita ea4300!

I just need the ea5000 and ea6100 and I'll have the full line in blue!

The 420/421 is nice but... A few mods to a dcs400/390 and I have a nice LIGHT saw. These 421's are kinda heavy for a 40cc saw.

I'm really waiting for a 6100 with heat!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
last few conversations i have had leads me to believe you will be waiting awhile on 6100H. they have yet to be safety tested to import and they dont think the demand is there to justify spending the money. I thought they were wrong but after sitting on skids of the 5105H and 6400H i think they may be right.
 
nstueve said:
Already have it in blue... Makita ea4300!

I just need the ea5000 and ea6100 and I'll have the full line in blue!

The 420/421 is nice but... A few mods to a dcs400/390 and I have a nice LIGHT saw. These 421's are kinda heavy for a 40cc saw.

I'm really waiting for a 6100 with heat!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Do you care to elaborate on the "few mods" to the dcs400? I just picked one up.

Thanks,
Lee
 
I opened the intake system and put a 028 or (026?) carb on it. Cut the squish to 0.015 and modified a rim drive clutch drum so i could run any chain I want. Also bumped the pin count to 7 instead of 6pin. Still need to modify the brake band so it works again.

I've been thinking a short tube stack and k&n on the top would look cool!!

The real limiting factor is the "L-shaped" intake tube between the cylinder and carb. You can use a foredom to grind it out a little. Haven't tried ign advancement yet.

They are pretty low rpm saws so I tried to focus on building torque and then speeding up the chain with the clutch drum set up. Runs great with .325!

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I could use the spring that drives the oil pump on a S/D 105 if anyone has donor parts or saws. I have spring that was loaned to me so I could have one made but seems I can find anyone who can pull it off. (reverse winding)
Message me if theres something available or ideas as to a fix.
have complete 105 saw just setting, wanting to go work but no oiling system would be a bad idea.
*also have a 100 that needs a fuel tank handle assembly if there is one of those available at a reasonable figure.
May be interested in letting go of either or both for the right offer.
 
Got this old girl 123 in a trade the other day. I got some used parts from Bplust. The bar studs were hacked. The muffler was hacked. The fuel cap needed a pipe wrench to remove and install. The good is it runs. Has strong spark, a clean piston and 180psi. I switched to 404 chain and modified a stihl mount to fit. The muffler bolts are the wrong heads but they are the correct length so it works for me. Better than the one! that was holding on when I got it.
123_20151001_195414.jpg 123_20151001_195404.jpg
 
Hi Guys,

I have a recently acquired Dcs-400 Makita. Nice little saw. I was at the cottage today, where the saw has been hanging from the rear handle. I took it down and set it on my work bench, some time later it was sitting in a pool of chain oil. It hadn't leaked while hanging up any body have an idea as to why? also I though I would poor out the chain oil and save it. While doing that I had fuel running over my hand. After I tried to duplicate the fuel leak but could not find one regardless of which position I held the saw. !!!Curious

Any thoughts welcome.

nice little saw by the way, my first makita/Dolmar.
 
leecopland said:
Hi Guys,

I have a recently acquired Dcs-400 Makita. Nice little saw. I was at the cottage today, where the saw has been hanging from the rear handle. I took it down and set it on my work bench, some time later it was sitting in a pool of chain oil. It hadn't leaked while hanging up any body have an idea as to why? also I though I would poor out the chain oil and save it. While doing that I had fuel running over my hand. After I tried to duplicate the fuel leak but could not find one regardless of which position I held the saw. !!!Curious

Any thoughts welcome.

nice little saw by the way, my first makita/Dolmar.
Click to expand...

The oil would be below the oil pump when hanging that way, they are prone to leaking from where the oil pump connects to the tank oil line so when the saw is set level the oil is now above the oil pump and you will likely find a leak at or behind the pump.
 
Ok so who here has run a 143??? Where do they stack up on more modern 90cc saws? I've run 9010's, 660's and 394/395's. Just wondering where these will fall in line...??? I'm guessing good torque for 36-42" bars, lower rpm than newer 90cc saws. Oiling capacity on these good enough for 42" bars?


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Also need to know if 123/133 cranks are the same???? Just need to know if bore diameter is all that changed???

Acres is showing 40mm stroke for 123, 133, and 143. So I assume all cranks are the same?


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They seem to have same crank. Someone was saying the bearings are different on the 133 super and 143. I know the hood is different for the 123 as the spark plug sticks back. Also the af is different and cover slides back .

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psuiewalsh said:
They seem to have same crank. Someone was saying the bearings are different on the 133 super and 143. I know the hood is different for the 123 as the spark plug sticks back. Also the af is different and cover slides back .

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Click to expand...
Ok, I can't remember if my chop saws are all 143 (343) based or if one is a 123 (309). I know one is 343 based saw with bad top end. I'm just trying to determine what parts I actually need to rebuild this 343. To make things worse I think the crank is bad in the 343 so I'll have to do a transplant from a 123/309. So I hope the cranks and the bearings are the same. Looking at IPL's there is a roller bearing and a 6203-c4 called for. I'm hoping 6203-c4's can be used on both sides with a 123/309 crank, and 343/143 top end. Then put 123-143 oiler mech in to make it a chainsaw.


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According to the IPL's...

Crank pre-1987-1990?
123: 123-120-002
133: 133-120-301

Crank 1990 IPL
133: 031-120-000
143: 031-120-001
Shows both above interchangeable.

1990 crank bearings
133 & 143 x2: 960-602-173

Pre 1987-1990 bearings
Flywheel side 6203-c4 or roller bearing above
Clutch side calls only for roller bearing listed above.




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Just read the 123/143 series might have a limited carb too. Anyone confirm this and how to block the limiter? Acres says it uses a Tilly hs-232c series.


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