Sealing endgrain

[Hunt4lumber]

What do i use?
When do i apply it?( before or after sawed into boards?)

 

[Czech_Made]

I have a pan of candle was, I used it to seal ends for some nice maple - takes time to melt it but IMHO one of the best home sealants.

For big lumber i use just leftover paint, can't say it completely prevents cracking.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I've used melted wax and have used a sealant that dries to a wax-like coating, but mostly 2-3 coats of cheap latex paint. I like to apply it soon after the log is cut - I think the wood draws it into the pores this way. I've had few if any issues with cracking.

 

[BobL]

What do i use?
When do i apply it?( before or after sawed into boards?)

Wax is good for small stuff but picks up grit, rocks etc, and is expensive for larger pieces.
I usually dock the sealed logs off and then reseal the boards etc afterwards..
I've tried making my own sealant with a mix of turps and wax with mixed success.
Anchor seal is the best, but here in Western Australia its either an expensive 55 gallon drums plus shipping (US$9/gallon), or even more outrageous outrageous small cans (US$49/gallon)at so I tend to use house paint. I find it needs at least 2 and preferably 3 coats - I like it in terms of crap doesn't stick so easily to it.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Anchorseal is the stuff to get, paint may make YOU feel good, but it's a POOR replacement for real end sealer.

Wax is good too, just harder to use...

End seal your logs ASAP and then cut right through it when you mill the logs... That way the boards are already sealed...

SR

 

[Hunt4lumber]

Thanks guys
Will post pics of very first milling, prob by next week sometime...

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

We just cut the logs 6-8" long and don't fuss with it. Cut to length after the board is dry.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Caltex timber sealer

Since I can't get bp log sealer anymore

Probably available in oz only though?

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

Hi guys couple questions/comments. So only starting on year 3 of milling for me. I got and used up 1 gallon of Anchorseal II. Am still getting some checking with it. I heard it isn't as good as older Anchorseal I was but could not get that anyplace anymore so tried II. Not really super impressed. Seems to help a little - not much. Debating whether to buy another gallon of this or not bother.

For paint, is PRIMER any better or just latex PAINT preferred? I found Kilz latex Primer seems to work for me as good as Anchorseal II. Oil bas versus water base primer or paint? I have tried just latex paint and I get some pretty bad checking, maybe a little slightly worse than the Anchorseal II. How many coats should be used?

Anyone ever try just liquid car wax? Not cheap of course at retail but I have some I didn't pay much of anything for. Might want to try it. Thoughts on all this? thx- Paul

 

[bobbobbobbob]

I use PVa Glue or normal white carpenters glue and brush it on nice and thick. It does the job for me.

 

[PhilB]

Hi guys couple questions/comments. So only starting on year 3 of milling for me. I got and used up 1 gallon of Anchorseal II. Am still getting some checking with it. I heard it isn't as good as older Anchorseal I was but could not get that anyplace anymore so tried II. Not really super impressed. Seems to help a little - not much. Debating whether to buy another gallon of this or not bother.

For paint, is PRIMER any better or just latex PAINT preferred? I found Kilz latex Primer seems to work for me as good as Anchorseal II. Oil bas versus water base primer or paint? I have tried just latex paint and I get some pretty bad checking, maybe a little slightly worse than the Anchorseal II. How many coats should be used?

Anyone ever try just liquid car wax? Not cheap of course at retail but I have some I didn't pay much of anything for. Might want to try it. Thoughts on all this? thx- Paul

I wouldn't use car wax as I think it has silicon in it which would give you problems with finishes.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

End sealer does NOT stop all "end checking" permanently......nothing will do that. But, what a GOOD end sealer will do, is to extend the time it takes for the ends to check, giving you an extended time to get the logs milled.

Once milled, it will keep the "lumber" from end checking, or at least not nearly so bad, IF the log/lumber isn't "full of tension" in the first place...

SR

 

[Hunt4lumber]

Good to know all
I planned on being milling by now
Life makes delays tho
My wife and i had twins a couple days ago!
So i have all the equipment and logs sawed into 10' lengths and put a heavy coat of end sealer on em and following day were having twins!
All going well and will have to wait for my milling cherry to be popped...
Thanks guys for all the info...

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The checking, at least in our logs, doesn't go more than a few inches. It's much cheaper to sacrifice a few inches of log vs spending time and money gooping crap on log ends!

We did over 50k in lumber sales last year so I'm not talking out my ass.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The checking, at least in our logs, doesn't go more than a few inches. It's much cheaper to sacrifice a few inches of log vs spending time and money gooping crap on log ends!

We did over 50k in lumber sales last year so I'm not talking out my ass.

Then again, how much nice walnut do you cut in Alaska?? How about white or red oak?? Cherry??

All of the years I spent in Alaska, around Palmer and other parts, I didn't see any of these species growing... lol AND when I went to Anchorage to buy some, it cost me an arm and a leg!!

BTW, I don't end coat lower quality logs either....

SR

 

[BobL]

Caltex timber sealer

What minimum quantity amounts can you but. When I looked into getting some I had to get a 200L drum plus freight from the east which made it very expensive.

 

[Runknpap]

I use roofing tar. It does a good job. Couple coats. And it's pretty cheap

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

Guys, can anyone answer my questions here? What type of paint or primer? How many coats?

For paint, is PRIMER any better or just latex PAINT preferred? I found Kilz latex Primer seems to work for me as good as Anchorseal II. Oil base versus water base primer or paint? I have tried just latex paint and I get some pretty bad checking, maybe a little slightly worse than the Anchorseal II. How many coats should be used?

thanks all - Paul

 

[Shawn Curry]

Sawing immediately to remove tension is the key for me. I use a knockoff product from my local specialty woodworking store that has very similar properties to anchorseal (Rockler green lumber end sealer). I thought it would help prevent checking in some logs I wasn't able to saw right away. It may well have reduced or slowed it down, but the internal tension was still there and they checked anyway.

I have some other lumber that was sawn right after bucking the logs, and from there was immediately stored in my garage. I never sealed it and it hasn't checked. It was also very straight and clear and the heart was sawn thru 2 ways. Nowadays I save it for the pieces that I know contain tension like crotch slabs.

Also note, products like Anchorseal and the knockoff that I use dry almost clear. This is important for me so I can see the center of the log and the orientation of the growth rings. I would not use paint for this reason.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Your post makes no sense. Where did I say anything about Walnut? Oak?
We cut lumber for framing, siding, flatbed floors, etc.
You guys can do whatever you want, I'm just sharing what I do.

WELL, when you make a statement like this,

We did over 50k in lumber sales last year so I'm not talking out my ass.

Bottom line is, you are sawing "softwood" logs, and that pretty much has nothing do with "hardwood" logs like walnut and oak, and many of us here ARE milling hardwood logs.

SO, you are only "not talking out of your ass" when it comes to soft wood logs... lol lol

SR