Sealing endgrain

[Pauls_Workshop]

Well said Wombler, I agree. Maybe I should think about some quarter sawing vs. just flat sawing on some of it. I've heard 1/4 sawing was good for black cherry too? Anyone know on that one? I've done some Plum and Apple, both similar fruit trees as Cherry, and they do like to split if you look at them twice. I didn't think it would be needed for walnut, but mabe it is for some of these pieces. I'm only on year 3 of milling, and I think I'll keep learning till year 40 of so. - Paul

 

[rarefish383]

You guys talking about bent limbs and curves in logs, got me thinking. In the woods behind my buddies house is an old Tulip Poplar. Looks like another tree fell on it about 100 years ago. Bent it over almost to the ground. Then it turned back up to the light. By the time the tree that bent it over rotted away, the tree had two giant bends in it. It must be close to four foot across. I always wondered if it could be milled with out coming apart. Next time I'm over my friends house I'll take pics. I think there is also a big hollow in the bottom, because I was always wishing the thing would snap off, Joe.

 

[KiwiBro]

What is the theory behind soaking the timber in water??

Not really sure what's going on at the fibre cell level, but I have found firewood that has been left in a body of water for a week or two seems to season way faster than normal when it's pulled out. If I were to guess, I'd say the resin/sap either gets diluted by the water, and/or the cell walls cannot dry rapidly enough to kind of case harden and block the movement of moisture vapour, thus the moisture can escape better.
As to what difference it makes to the natural stresses in the timber, I have no idea. There's a few quite stressed gum logs I have and will continue to drop, and I'll do a few tests for comparison.

 

[jessejames]

i coat ends of hardwood logs asap after bucking to length. make my own wax emulsion by shaving parafin wax with a block plane and desolving in paint thinner. looks just like anchor seal. goes on milky, dries clear. $150/ 20 liter pail + shipping from the mainland for anchor seal.

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

You guys talking about bent limbs and curves in logs, got me thinking. In the woods behind my buddies house is an old Tulip Poplar. Looks like another tree fell on it about 100 years ago. Bent it over almost to the ground. Then it turned back up to the light. By the time the tree that bent it over rotted away, the tree had two giant bends in it. It must be close to four foot across. I always wondered if it could be milled with out coming apart. Next time I'm over my friends house I'll take pics. I think there is also a big hollow in the bottom, because I was always wishing the thing would snap off, Joe.

Hey Rarefish, YES, you can definitely mill those bent wood pieces and make rounded wood projects from them. But I don't use an Alaskan mill to do it. You could but the guide rail system would have to somewhat accommodate the bend, which may be hard to do. I just do my vertical mill-free cutting on them. Set them upright supported on either side well so they won't tip over. Start cutting, either from the middle down each end or from one end first or whatever. Go down one side, then the other till it is split right in half. You want to *always* cut right through the middle or better even make a 2" cant right out of the middle to deal with the Pith in the middle, which is the root cause of many a crack. Never leave that in a cant if you can help it or even if you can't! Sorry, pun intended there. Anyhow, if a big diameter log, do more similar vertical cuts as desired to make "cants" from them with the radius intact. Be careful when free milling like this without any mill to not get the tip of the saw on top touching wood unless "trapped" by the piece well to avoid any kickback. Otherwise, as safe as any other way to use a chainsaw. I like to free mill with my 28" bar but use whatever you have. - Paul

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

i coat ends of hardwood logs asap after bucking to length. make my own wax emulsion by shaving parafin wax with a block plane and desolving in paint thinner. looks just like anchor seal. goes on milky, dries clear. $150/ 20 liter pail + shipping from the mainland for anchor seal.

Jesse, please send us the exact recipe and process!! I would like to try it. If there is a way to do it without having to heat or melt the wax, I need to know how to do it! Share! How are the bears on Vanvouver Island? I love watching the "Alone" survival show on cable now on Vancouver Island. Looks like a beautiful place, millers paradise, but kindov dangerous!!! - Paul

 

[rarefish383]

Hey Rarefish, YES, you can definitely mill those bent wood pieces and make rounded wood projects from them. But I don't use an Alaskan mill to do it. You could but the guide rail system would have to somewhat accommodate the bend, which may be hard to do. I just do my vertical mill-free cutting on them. Set them upright supported on either side well so they won't tip over. Start cutting, either from the middle down each end or from one end first or whatever. Go down one side, then the other till it is split right in half. You want to *always* cut right through the middle or better even make a 2" cant right out of the middle to deal with the Pith in the middle, which is the root cause of many a crack. Never leave that in a cant if you can help it or even if you can't! Sorry, pun intended there. Anyhow, if a big diameter log, do more similar vertical cuts as desired to make "cants" from them with the radius intact. Be careful when free milling like this without any mill to not get the tip of the saw on top touching wood unless "trapped" by the piece well to avoid any kickback. Otherwise, as safe as any other way to use a chainsaw. I like to free mill with my 28" bar but use whatever you have. - Paul

Paul, I'd have to wait for this tree to blow over. It's in the woods on someone else's property. My cousin has a crane truck, but no way to get close. I've milled 3" X 27" X 8', Tulip Poplar and those planks were well over 100 lbs. Can you imagine how heavy a 3" bar top plank would weigh. If this tree every goes over I'll figure out something, but I doubt I'll stand it up. I've done some free hand milling and it was pretty accurate, works fine for benches around the fire pit. I'll see if I can get some pics of this bent tree soon, Joe.

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

It sounds like it would be a fun one to mill Joe!

I like the odd shaped pieces. I'm a bit of an odd duck myself, so I like my wood to be a bit eccentric too! In grain, type, or shapes! I'm sure I'll use them for something fun! I also have been known to mill much smaller bent wood radiused pieces. I have some Black Locust "boomerangs" that I plan to save for rounded handles for toolcarts, cabinets, that sort of thing or rounded trim for end tables or mirrors. Or maybe vertical tool holders. The imagination is the only limit! Rather than cut the limbs to only be straight pieces, I'll save them as symmetrical radius length chunks usually and leave those bends in. Later on, I hope to really contribute to the milled projects thread as my first and longest hobby is woodworking, but my stuff is drying for now, and don't have the time now either. I did make a nice train/truck for my little kids out of scrap English Walnut I had. Turned out real nice. Shame I had to paint it all though as that was what my 4 year old boy directed me to do! It is made of 5 colors and no beautiful walnut grain showing! - Paul

 

[Czech_Made]

Not really sure what's going on at the fibre cell level, but I have found firewood that has been left in a body of water for a week or two seems to season way faster than normal when it's pulled out. If I were to guess, I'd say the resin/sap either gets diluted by the water, and/or the cell walls cannot dry rapidly enough to kind of case harden and block the movement of moisture vapour, thus the moisture can escape better.
As to what difference it makes to the natural stresses in the timber, I have no idea. There's a few quite stressed gum logs I have and will continue to drop, and I'll do a few tests for comparison.

I dont know what happens in the log either but in old days in my old country wood was send down the river in rafts - wood from rafts is better quality, harder and less prone to damage by bugs.

 

[Pauls_Workshop]

I dont know what happens in the log either but in old days in my old country wood was send down the river in rafts - wood from rafts is better quality, harder and less prone to damage by bugs.

There MUST be something to this water immersion then. It must be beneficial. Who else has done this! Surely some on the forum have! - Paul

 

[rlagroup]

RLA Group have a product called "Endcheck", comes in either a 20L or 200L drum. For more information email [email protected] with your contact details & I will respond with pricing, details etc.
Regards
David Meiklejohn