Searching for info about Poulan 2375 Wild Thing

[Larry Johnson]

I was given a well used poulan 2375 wild thing chainsaw that wasn't running. After replacing the fuel lines and plug, and cleaning all the saw dust between the coil and crankshaft, I managed to get it running, despite my limited mechanical skills. It seems to be idling well. The chain doesn't spin until the throttle is pulled. There seems to be an excess of chain lube oil being emitted, but I'm not really certain if it's too much. I have little experience with chain saws. I guess I'm just looking for reference info to understand how determine if it's running properly, make carb adjustments with the L and H screws, understand the purpose of the T screw adjustment hole. The owner's manual provides little useful info, it doesn't even indicate what the adjustment screws are for. I was able to learn a little from this video. thanks.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The 2375 isn't a bad saw for what it is. I did notice on some of those saws you have to turn the H and L screws out a little further than the manual would state. The other screw is merely the idle speed screw and in conjunction with the L screw you set the idle. If it doesn't have good throttle response off idle you can turn the L screw slightly out and it'll help clear that up. The H screw is for high speed mixture adjust. Warm the saw up, get it to idle correctly then set the H screw with the throttle opened up. Get it tuned for just about the highest speed then turn the H screw out about an eighth turn so it won't run too lean, you should be able to hear it burble when you open it up and have no load. If it doesn't burble a bit open the H screw up a little more until you hear it..Someone will come along later and tell you that this is all wrong but that's how I generally do it.

 

[Larry Johnson]

The 2375 isn't a bad saw for what it is...

Thanks for the reply. From your opening statement, I'm not exactly sure if your complementing or insulting the saw, ha. It was free, so to me it's a winner.
This video regarding sharpening the chain and determining if oil if lubing the chain properly was helpful, eventhough it's not specific to my saw. http://www.planitdiy.com/manufacturer-videos/sharpening-a-saw-chain/

 

[a. palmer jr.]

No insults meant, just meant it wasn't an expensive saw when it was new so it is what it is. I've had one or two of those and wouldn't mind having another if the opportunity finds me, they're just fine for trimming limbs and such. Like any chainsaw regardless of price, things go wrong with them. I took about a month this year rebuilding saws that cost over $1000 when new. Like any saw it does require maintenance..Your saw has a little plastic and metal oil pump that sits behind the clutch and the gears should be checked to make sure they aren't stripped and of course you should make sure the passages are clear for the oil including the ones in the bar itself. Sometimes those little holes get stopped up with grease and sawdust..

 

[cedarhollow]

Welcome to the site with some of the most knowledgeable chainsaw people on the planet. I'm just a homeowner newby but here are some things I have picked up. You want oil on the chain and you do not want chain moving when saw is idling. if it starts and runs that is great just put it to use and cut what needs cutting. a good quality oil to mix with the gas, like stihl brand oil, is a good thing to do and non-ethenol gas to mix with the oil is also a good thing. Keep a sharp chain on the saw.

 

[JT78]

The 2375 are good little saws just rebuilt 2 of them and did some porting on them as well. I personally don't like the primer bulbs so I bypass them and plug the holes up. I did find that the carb on them takes about 2-2.5 turns out on the L and H to get a good starting point. As stated above the L controls the idle mixture counter clockwise richens and clockwise leans then use the T screw to set the idle speed the H screw controls wide open throttle you def want to error on the rich side here as too lean will burn up the saw a good description for this was described above also. Opening up the muffler on these saws makes a big difference as they are really choked down. From there keep the chain sharp and clean the filter and saw after using and if will cut a lot of wood.

 

[blsnelling]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-tuning-101.250802/

 

[Larry Johnson]

The 2375 are good little saws just rebuilt 2 of them and did some porting on them as well. I personally don't like the primer bulbs so I bypass them and plug the holes up. I did find that the carb on them takes about 2-2.5 turns out on the L and H to get a good starting point. As stated above the L controls the idle mixture counter clockwise richens and clockwise leans then use the T screw to set the idle speed the H screw controls wide open throttle you def want to error on the rich side here as too lean will burn up the saw a good description for this was described above also. Opening up the muffler on these saws makes a big difference as they are really choked down. From there keep the chain sharp and clean the filter and saw after using and if will cut a lot of wood.

Thanks for the reply, JT. What's porting? Is that like boring out the cylinder? How does one open up a muffler? Cutting slots in it?
A new air filter came with the hose kit that I bought. I also put on a new chain. I tested it on a small log. It cuts much better than the old one which created saw dust instead of large chips like the newe chain. I'll tinker with tuning it soon. I doubt this saw will get much use, but I'm glad to have one.

 

[JT78]

Porting is widening and changing the openeing time of the intake and exhaust ports by raising or lowering by grinding with a file or dremel have to be careful and measure to within a few thousanths of an inch. There are a few masters with this here I'm just an ametuer. as far as the muffler just take out the muffler bolts and remove the center piece with the screen around it open the slits more and put it back together without the center screen piece. Also usually when they throw dust either the chain is dull or has been sharpened a lot and the rakers are too high. If you notice it throwing dust instead of chips the chain needs attention this is the number 1 killer of a good saw.

 

[Larry Johnson]

Porting is widening and changing the openeing time of the intake and exhaust ports by raising or lowering by grinding with a file or dremel have to be careful and measure to within a few thousanths of an inch. There are a few masters with this here I'm just an ametuer. as far as the muffler just take out the muffler bolts and remove the center piece with the screen around it open the slits more and put it back together without the center screen piece. Also usually when they throw dust either the chain is dull or has been sharpened a lot and the rakers are too high. If you notice it throwing dust instead of chips the chain needs attention this is the number 1 killer of a good saw.

I see. I won't be porting the saw. Will have a look at the muffler. As I said, I put on a new chain. Cuts big chips. Thanks again.

 

[scottr]

Porting is widening and changing the openeing time of the intake and exhaust ports by raising or lowering by grinding with a file or dremel have to be careful and measure to within a few thousanths of an inch. There are a few masters with this here I'm just an ametuer. as far as the muffler just take out the muffler bolts and remove the center piece with the screen around it open the slits more and put it back together without the center screen piece. Also usually when they throw dust either the chain is dull or has been sharpened a lot and the rakers are too high. If you notice it throwing dust instead of chips the chain needs attention this is the number 1 killer of a good saw.

JT ,are you saying to leave out the diffuser and the spark arrestor screen ?

 

[JT78]

Yes I leave them out and usually add a couple extra holes to the muffler.

 

[scottr]

Yes I leave them out and usually add a couple extra holes to the muffler.

Does the front distort from not being supported by the diffuser ?

 

[JT78]

The ones I've done haven't but if you try to over tighten the muffler bolts it will.

 

[scottr]

The ones I've done haven't but if you try to over tighten the muffler bolts it will.

Do you use a lock washer ?

 

[JT78]

Yes I use a lock washer on the bolts. Never had an issue with them backing out that way. I got hold of one somebody had used locktite on broke the bolt off trying to take it out had to drill and 're tap the hole it was a pain.

 

[scottr]

I was given a well used poulan 2375 wild thing chainsaw that wasn't running. After replacing the fuel lines and plug, and cleaning all the saw dust between the coil and crankshaft, I managed to get it running, despite my limited mechanical skills. It seems to be idling well. The chain doesn't spin until the throttle is pulled. There seems to be an excess of chain lube oil being emitted, but I'm not really certain if it's too much. I have little experience with chain saws. I guess I'm just looking for reference info to understand how determine if it's running properly, make carb adjustments with the L and H screws, understand the purpose of the T screw adjustment hole. The owner's manual provides little useful info, it doesn't even indicate what the adjustment screws are for. I was able to learn a little from this video. thanks.

Larry , excess chain lube can be caused by the oil tank vent tube being out of place. Look in the oil tank and if there is a rigid plastic tube type vent the open end should be in the top left corner .