Sharp Maul vs Dull Maul?

[Whitespider]

Sharp, real sharp…

People don’t really see a splitting maul as a “cutting” tool, but it is. When the edge first strikes the wood it does “cut” through and between fibers for a short distance until it enters deep enough to “force” the wood apart something like a wedge. The maul, or axe, relies on momentum to keep it moving, and kinetic energy to force the wood apart… but that kinetic energy can only be used to split the wood after the maul head enters deep enough to use its “wedge” effect. Anything that reduces velocity before that point will reduce both momentum and useful kinetic energy (splitting force).

A dull edge will compress and compact the wood fibers, rather than “cutting” through them… causing the tool to use more of its energy to rip and tear them apart. Velocity and momentum are reduced sooner during the splitting action… which reduces the kinetic energy available when it is needed most.

 

[zogger]

When I got a Mueller last year, it gave me a demo as to what a proper maul edge was, besides an efficient head shape. Not to mention metallurgy.

Edge: sharp. Head slightly convex to about 3/8" behind edge. Head faces essentially flat from there to about the midpoint of the eye. Some might call this stuff subtle, but it sure works.

Took a disc grinder to some old 5 lb and 8 lb mauls to try to mimic the head shape of the Mueller. The difference in performance was startling. Now the Mueller is reserved as heavy artillery for the big, nasty stuff.

Now, if I could only find my steel wedges ...

Yep, sharp. I think the sharpness, shape and original teflon coating is what impressed me with the fiskars when I first started swinging one. And of course the light weight.

With that said, I've been a lazy boy, time to put a decent edge on the old anvil on a stick and my wedges.

 

[Jules083]

Brand/source of larger wedges?

That's a good question. I bought mine at a flea market.

Google search 'set up wedge' and you'll get an idea. The ones I use are longer, but these should work good for starting a split. I use similar stuff at work a lot to 'tweak' stuff that doesn't fit, it's unreal how much pressure you can put on metal with one. I once picked up a corner of a 60,000 pound section of ductwork 3/4" with one wedge and an 8 lb sledge to line it up.

Item No: SUW-952 [Drop Forged Steel Set-Up Wedge]


8" Steel Set-Up Wedge | Real Cheap Tools

 

[zogger]

That's a good question. I bought mine at a flea market.

Google search 'set up wedge' and you'll get an idea. The ones I use are longer, but these should work good for starting a split. I use similar stuff at work a lot to 'tweak' stuff that doesn't fit, it's unreal how much pressure you can put on metal with one. I once picked up a corner of a 60,000 pound section of ductwork 3/4" with one wedge and an 8 lb sledge to line it up.

Item No: SUW-952 [Drop Forged Steel Set-Up Wedge]


8" Steel Set-Up Wedge | Real Cheap Tools

Thank you very much! Kinda sorta just what I was thinking about with my giant wedge idea. had no idea real large wedges, for any purpose, even existed on the market.

I screwed up two summers ago. Boss scrapped about a trainload (not joking, trainload) of old orklift junk at his closing down shop, shoulda grabbed some old busted/bent forks at scrap steel prices. Cut a long end off clean, sharpen it. Of course, I don't know if that is the right steel or not either, I imagine probably not, too hard maybe.

 

[aarolar]

All this talk is great but pictures are worth 1000 words. Lets see some pictures of a properly sharpened and shaped maul.

 

[homemade]

Always sharp. I've also heard the argument that if you have a dull edge that it will follow the natural path of the wood fibers where a sharp edge will require more enegry to cut through. But I don't want be swinging full force when the natural path of the wood fibers are leading to the outer edge of the round and then the maul slips out and into my leg. Just not a good day. I'll try and get some pics of my splitter.

 

[Eric Modell]

There is block splinting and ground spliting. Forty years ago I split with an axe on a block and did not evan know what a maul was. When I cut wood for a living the rounds were turnened on end with out moving, split with a dull maul and loaded on the truck for sale, it depends on what you are doing. To make money I did not whant to handle the wood twice, and in the ozarks you can not keep a maul sharp splinting in the rocks and dirt.

 

[CTYank]

All this talk is great but pictures are worth 1000 words. Lets see some pictures of a properly sharpened and shaped maul.

Seems "sharp" is pretty simple. As is "flat." Sometimes a couple words suffices. :msp_razz:

Check the 3 kg maul here: Splitting Axes and Splitting Mauls I've got one- it's a real beauty, and served as a template for modifying some Bradlees' specials into serious tools.

You could order one for a model. Or a Gransfors.

 

[ReggieT]

Seems "sharp" is pretty simple. As is "flat." Sometimes a couple words suffices. :msp_razz:

Check the 3 kg maul here: Splitting Axes and Splitting Mauls I've got one- it's a real beauty, and served as a template for modifying some Bradlees' specials into serious tools.

You could order one for a model. Or a Gransfors.

WOW! Serious business here for sure...DAM IT MAN!!!

 

[Jules083]

You guys motivated me to bring out the maul today. First swing, broken handle. Second swing a few hours later, head flew off the new handle. The wooden wedge the handle came with bottomed out too early and didn't get it tight enough it seems. Have some small metal wedges for this somewhere, gotta tear the garage up tomorrow and try to find them.

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