Sharpening

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As I understand it, the STIHL 2-in-1 file / sharpener (and the Pferd model) is only supposed to be used with a 0° down angle. The same is true for all of the basic STIHL and Oregon file holders, like these:.

View attachment 592891

If you want / need that 10° down angle, you need to go a different way. I think that the Husqvarna roller guides have this angle 'built in'.

Philbert
Yes, those can only work with a 0° angle, I usually use those roller gauges for that 10° angle. Here's what I just learned from reading above and then following up with a little research: Stihl chain is recommended to be filed flat and Oregon chain is recommended at 10°. Ha! Didn't know that. Truthfully I've never really been entirely consistent, when I use the roller I get 10° (which doesn't fit on stihl chain anyway) and when I use my pferd file I probably fudge it around 5-6° instead of perfectly flat...

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Stihl chain is recommended to be filed flat and Oregon chain is recommended at 10°.
Part of the confusion is that those recommendations, as well as the recommended sharpening angles, have varied through the years. Sometimes they were different in different publications the same year.

So use that as a starting point, and decide what works best for you.

Philbert
 
Well Hi Philbert You can not take your chain off take the loose chain off set it up on your wonderful grinder sharpen your chain put the chain back on the saw and adjust the tension how quickly?

Ted, I really believe that you can file as well as you describe. It is a skill that only a small percentage of folks have.

A larger percentage can file 'good enough to get by'. Then there are people who don't even realize how bad they are. That's why companies like STIHL and Oregon suggest having chains 'evened up' with a grinder after every few hand filings.

I receive many chains where the R and L teeth are completely different lengths, and have maybe 5 or more degrees difference in top plate angles, if they are even that consistent. So I true them up on a grinder (doing a batch right now). I will touch up a chain in the field with a file, but prefer to swap out more dinged up chains (storm cleanup is hard on chains). To do that I have to 'grind as I file and file as I grind' so that I am not completely reshaping the teeth each time. I am sure that I could learn to file better, but do OK with a sharp file, some type of file guide, and the chain held steady with a stump vise, chain vise, or bored into a stump.

'Lots of ways to sharpen; everyone has to find something that works for them'.

Philbert
 
Ted, I really believe that you can file as well as you describe. It is a skill that only a small percentage of folks have.

A larger percentage can file 'good enough to get by'. Then there are people who don't even realize how bad they are. That's why companies like STIHL and Oregon suggest having chains 'evened up' with a grinder after every few hand filings.

I receive many chains where the R and L teeth are completely different lengths, and maybe 5 or more degrees different top plate angles, if they are even that consistent. So I true them up on a grinder (doing a batch right now). I will touch up a chain in the field with a file, but prefer to swap out more dinged up chains (storm cleanup is hard on chains). To do that I have to 'grind as I file and file as I grind' so that I am not completely reshaping the teeth each time. I am sure that I could learn to file better, but do OK with a sharp file, some type of file guide, and the chain held steady with a stump vise, chain vise, or bored into a stump.

'Lots of ways to sharpen; everyone has to find something that works for them'.

Philbert
The only kicker I can say is if you're running longer then 28" bar full comp or semi skip it's faster to swap a chain out then it is to file especially when you run saws for a living.

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It has been a number of years since cutting in Oregon, but very familiar with Oregon, Wash, Idaho. The trees in those states are SOFT. If you are happy with your grinder then that is what you should do. For me I would need at least 40 to 50 and maybe that would not be enough spare chains or carry a large supply of generating equipment to grind chains. I would say that most folks here love their grinders. There is not a possibility that you could take your chain off and change it and sharpen it cheaper, faster or sharper than I can just pull out a file and sharpen it right on the saw and go back to work. It seems like most believe using a file is VOODO art, well it is not. I would say you keep your grinder and go about and enjoy being in the forest doing what you like doing, but I will hang on to my ammo box with files. Thanks
Have you been physically assaulted by a grinder, as soon as someone mentions one you seem to get very excited....

I am just joking with you ted, and I do totally understand we're you are coming from, you are not the only one that had to grow up and hand file a chain...

Any time some one says something about a grinder, you instantly assume that they can't file or do not even want to try....this is WRONG...a lot of guys that have grinders still file, I know I do, hell I actually like to hand file,(if it's my own chains lol)...

Believe it or not you DO NOT have to pick one or the other, YOU CAN use both....I know sounds absolutely outrageous, I do it all the time!!!

Let's be honest hand filing is NOT VODOO here people, it's simply chainsaw maintance....
 
I have never used/seen a timberline in person....what kind of adjustment does it have so all the cutters are the same length...

The Reason I recommend the granberg or the Stihl file holder is because you are actually learning how to "free" hand file while using the jig....once you have used the granberg or the file holder for awhile, you will easily be able to transfer into "free" hand filing (using JUST the file)....it's an easy transition because you are building muscle memory when using these!!

This is not vodoo, rocket science, or even that hard guys....get a file, a brand new chain, and a dull chain....get a good spot that's easy to see the chain and start filing the darn chain until you get it to resemble the brand new chain!!!
 
I touch up my chain every tank. Only takes a few minutes and keeps it cutting properly. Haven't hit a rock in years - so it usually only takes a few strokes a tooth.

I've always used the Husky roller guide and they work well for me. Been using my original 0.325" one for >25 years. I recently sent my wife to pick up one for 3/8" chain, and the local saw shop sold her the Husky SharpForce http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accesso...g-equipment/sharp-force-file-guide/653000034/ instead (Pferd Chain Sharp). They told her that was what they used in the shop these days.

I've only used it once so far - and have not formed an opinion yet - but what I did notice was that the reference angles on the SharpForce are 35 degrees, whereas the Oregon recommendation for my 73LGX chain is 25 degrees. I used a sharpie to mark 25 degrees on it before I even started. I'll have a better opinion after a few more tanks through the saw. So far seems to work okay. I did have to take the gauges down a bit before the first use - they were holding the round file a bit high on the tooth.
 
I haven't used the timberline, butbit just doesn't look helpful in any way to me!!!

Atleast will h a granberg a novice is building more axle memory without even thinking about it
 
Have you been physically assaulted by a grinder, as soon as someone mentions one you seem to get very excited....

I am just joking with you ted, and I do totally understand we're you are coming from, you are not the only one that had to grow up and hand file a chain...

Any time some one says something about a grinder, you instantly assume that they can't file or do not even want to try....this is WRONG...a lot of guys that have grinders still file, I know I do, hell I actually like to hand file,(if it's my own chains lol)...

Believe it or not you DO NOT have to pick one or the other, YOU CAN use both....I know sounds absolutely outrageous, I do it all the time!!!

Let's be honest hand filing is NOT VODOO here people, it's simply chainsaw maintance....

Excellent answer could not say it better or as well. Actually I am very good with a grinder, but it is not realistic to use being 4 or 5 hours away from electricity. Thanks
 
In the main Timberline thread (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-chain-sharpener.180488/) advocates say that it helps them to maintain sharp, consistent edges. Not as good to reshape a rocked cutter.

To anyone... send me ten bucks to cover shipping and a box and the Timberline is yours.
First one to post gets it.

Wait, everyone just send ten dollars, and the first one I get, I'll send it to. The others I'll just keep. Chop, chop!

For real. If some one wants it, it is yours for shipping. Three carbide bits included.
 
To anyone... send me ten bucks to cover shipping and a box and the Timberline is yours.
First one to post gets it.

Wait, everyone just send ten dollars, and the first one I get, I'll send it to. The others I'll just keep. Chop, chop!

For real. If some one wants it, it is yours for shipping. Three carbide bits included.


PM incoming!
 
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