Snellerized Saws Re-Visits the MS241C

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You guys like build threads? Well, I haven't done one in a while. They take time that I don't usually have to spend, but had to show off this fantastic runner. This saw has blown me away like few others. Let's get started.

Hey, what's in there?
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Ah, it's a new MS241C and a free t-shirt thrown in to boot. Thanks Mark!
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My model for the day, lol.
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I fired it up for 10-15 seconds to make sure it ran OK, and apart it came.
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Hey Big Brother. Do you think I could run like you someday? Well, let's see what we can do about that.
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Squaring up the base of the piston so that it will set perfectly square to cut the popup.
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I've said before that I don't find the 241 to be light enough and would just as soon grab my 346. I thought the same thing last night when I got done. So, I grabbed the scales.

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I was surprised to see that it's 1# 5.4oz lighter than my 346. Both saws are full of fuel and oil. Both are wearing 16" B&Cs. You could lighten the 241 even more with a 14" bar and/or a E Light bar, which I well may do. I'm undecided on 14" or 16". It actually balances well with the 16".
 
I have one with a muffler mod and use it a lot but it sure don't run like this one! Wow. And a 241c is only 42.6cc to boot.
 
I'm always looking to learn, how does cutting the base of the piston affect the squareness of how it sits in the chuck?
When I cut the popup, I put the skirts directly against the face of the chuck. This is simply an aid in getting the piston square in the chuck. I'm usually less than .001" right off the bat.
 
I am glad to hear you are indicating it also. I wondered about you trimming the skirt messing with the timing some. I suppose it could be giving you more time area that fits your build style anyways. :chainsaw: with that said it obviously works well as shown in the testing.
One thing that makes me wonder with these auto tunes is how they will behave once well broke in? I wonder that since these seem to have at least a perceived unlock time. When they kind of come alive. I must say I'm not much of a stihl guy but would be proud to cut with that saw.:havingarest:
 
I wondered about you trimming the skirt messing with the timing some.
.002"-.003" is going to have no affect on port timing. Also, the part of the piston that opens the intake port is also raised. It wasn't touched in this operation. Additionally, I lowered the intake by 8° to get it where I wanted it.
 
When I cut the popup, I put the skirts directly against the face of the chuck. This is simply an aid in getting the piston square in the chuck. I'm usually less than .001" right off the bat.

But wouldn't it be the same without cutting the base? The chuck jaws are holding a cylindrical object, they don't care what the ends are doing, no? Have you ever measured to see if the face of your chuck is actually perpendicular to the jaws?

When you say that you're "less than .001" right off the bat", what are you referring to, runout or something else?
 
I am liking some of the more aggressive port jobs being done. Even if I'll never do some of them it is way cool. All of this frakinsaws, popups,fingers, bridges, external enlarged transfers, filled intakes/exhuste, 2 piece heads and all :baba:. I love to see stuff takin up to the next level.
 

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