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I can almost guarantee you had a bad intake boot. These saws get a bad rap for their intake boot problems, and some had bad boots from the factory! It's not too hard to change the boot, it's a bit of a procedure but nuthin a sharp guy like you can't figure out.
Those 330 Homelites are getting a bit old by now and most do have a bad boot. All the fuel and impulse lines, oil lines should be changed at the same time along with checking the av mounts. Once done the saw has a reasonable amount of power when fitted with a 16 or 18 inch bar.
When the boot is replaced and the saw is tuned up they start as good as anything else..
 
Mini Mac and Pro Mac 6 wins hands down! But honorable mention has to go to the Husqvarna (Poulan) 235/240, what a miserable POS, they barely run (some don't at all) brand new out of the box!

Joe
 
Anybody know if the Jonsered CS2138 has the chrome piston, aluminum cylinder? I have a craftsman 42/18, and Poulan Pro PP4218AVX all of which are very similar. Read the post by excess650, so thought this might be the right thread to post.
I think they stopped doing the chromed bore on the Poulan Pro 42cc when they went to the strato engines - at least they stopped advertising them as "Druachrome". Look at the IPL's for the Jonsered, Craftsman and Poulan Pro - if they are the same piston and cylinder part numbers then probably they are not chromed. That would not bother me much. I prefer the chromed bore but I have found the others to work fine.

I have the Poulan 4218 AVX.. MISERABLE thing.. a couple tanks through it, certainly on the original chain, scored pison/cylinder, awful to tune with the strato carb. I think the engine of the poulan 260 looks like it would fit, and that would be an upgrade since it has a standard carb setup... Unfortunately the 260 I have has all the same ailments as the 4218..
Tuning the strato carb is no different than tuning the conventional carb. PP260's are tough little saws - what ailments did you mean? The only one I can think of is that some of the later ones had cat mufflers, but these are easily replaced by the common 2-piece mufflers from older engines (Wild Things, etc.), which are also easy to modify.
 
They both have scored pistons/cylinders

From the toughness I have seen of the Nikasil cylinders, I'll go for those any day of the week over chrome or bare. I have 4 old husky saws, all 4 have good P/C, I have 4 new poulans, 3 of 4 are done for.. the 4218 still runs, just not the way it should (I think)
 
Years back I had on of those Poulan Pro 42cc with the Durachrome bores, and that thing was a tough little guy.

We were cutting a large Willow tree down at my dads place with it. I was at the time a on-call crash investigator and got called to an accident. Before I left, I told my dad and sister's idiot boyfriend that the oil had not been put in the gas yet and needed to be mixed. I took off and did what I need to do, and returned about 2hrs later. My dad and sisters boyfriend were sitting on in chairs and almost all the tree was cut up. I then asked why they had not finished? Sisters boyfriend said that the saw would not idle, felt like it was low on power and was so hot when running he could not hold onto it any longer "this saw was only a couple days old". I looked over to the fuel can sitting by a stump. Right next to the can was the oil I had told them to mix in it. I then asked if the put the oil in the gas, which they said NO! I asked how many tanks they ran through it and was told 4-5tanks:dumb:

I grabbed the saw and pulled on the rope, she fired right up but would not idle. I then pulled the muffler off and looked at the piston and rings, and they looked like someone put them in a cheese grader.

I looked at my sisters boyfriend and said well I guess its broke, and you can have it. He asked where I bought it at and if I still had the receipt. I gave him the receipt to the big-box store I bought it from and he came back an hour latter with a new saw "WTF". I asked them how in the world he got them to take it back? He said I just told them it would not Idle properly and they gave me a new one!

We still have that saw at my dads house, but we do not have the boyfriend around anymore!!
 
I'm sure that's a killer of a lot of them.. and in this case stupidity wasn't as expensive for the BF as it should have been
 
Any recent era Poulan or Mac, or any flavor of bottom of the barrel Chinese imports, earthquakes and the like. I'm a dyed in the wool big name pro saw snob.... that doesn't even use his for his own firewood anymore. I used my ported 395 with 8 pin rim to shorten a couple 4x4s yesterday. :dumb2:
 
ChrisPA; Not sure what a cat muffler is. What earlier muffler do you mean? As far as the carb, when you puller trigger there is always a hesitation, then it's like it catches and revs up. It's like a delay from the throttle portion to the intake. Definitely not a fan of the cable!
 
ChrisPA; Not sure what a cat muffler is. What earlier muffler do you mean? As far as the carb, when you puller trigger there is always a hesitation, then it's like it catches and revs up. It's like a delay from the throttle portion to the intake. Definitely not a fan of the cable!
Some of the manufacturers put catalytic converter material in the mufflers to react with the unburned fuel that goes out the open exhaust port. Poulan did this on some saws prior to the introduction of strato engines, after which they did not need it any more.

Cats are a poor choice on a chainsaw engine, which has a carb that is designed to produce a very rich mixture at every point but max load, and possible idle. Combined with high scavenging losses on non-strato engines there are huge amounts of unburned fuel in the exhaust, and while the cat will reduce that somewhat it is assured of getting very hot. And the lost fuel is still wasted.
 
ChrisPA: Any chance for a pic of the cat muffler and/or suitable older type that would fit? Also, any ideas on the carb issues mentioned.
 
ChrisPA: Any chance for a pic of the cat muffler and/or suitable older type that would fit? Also, any ideas on the carb issues mentioned.

Here are some ebay links that show the various muffler types - this is the cat muffler:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151607389234

This is the early two-piece type that is easy to modify:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=171710356892

This is the later type that is not a cat but is crimped together and harder to modify - but it has a front outlet that may be required with the later chain brake handles:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=111614478705

As to the carbs, it's how they are designed and a result of the mods they made to create an all-position carb. The new electronic feedback carbs don't have that problem.
 
Mine is the later type, as in the last link! Can you suggest the best modification for this type of muffler? Also, would the new electronic feedback carb work on my chainsaw. If so, a spec like part no. would be helpful. Thanks, for you patience and help!
 
Mine is the later type, as in the last link! Can you suggest the best modification for this type of muffler? Also, would the new electronic feedback carb work on my chainsaw. If so, a spec like part no. would be helpful. Thanks, for you patience and help!
I'm afraid I have not modified any of the last type, although I believe some others here have. The feedback carbs are part of the AutoTune/Mtronic systems put on higher end saws - I've been hoping they put a simple system on cheaper saws, but not so far. The electronics are part of the ignition module, and I think retrofit would be rally difficult, though perhaps not impossible.
 
poulan pro 220 given to me with a bad oiler put in a new oiler it just won't die the quick adjust chain tensioner is horrible but it starts every time and runs well all day long I love it and hate it both just keeps running and cutting.
 
Stihl ms441 has got to be the worst saw I have ever had to rebuild, what a POC

I just finished rebuilding an MS441 after my one son ran it for I don't know how long with no wing nut on the air filter. The piston and cylinder were pretty bad but the lower end appeared tight. I did it just to see if I could. I got it apart and back together but I have to agree with "funky sawman," what a PITA. Fortunately I was able top tap into a Stihl mechanic who took pity on me and told me that I "just took on rebuilding the most complicated saw Stihl ever made." I used NWP PC and made sure to oil them real good along with the crank and wrist pin bearings while reassembling. So it smoked a little on startup, but it seems to run OK. Great compression and idles well. I'll wait and see how long it takes for my sons to destroy it. Then we'll see how the NWP one year warranty holds up!
 
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