Splitter acting/working weak?

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60DRB

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
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Location
Alabama
OK, this is an older splitter I bought from my dad.

"Speeco" brand name, 20 ton, with 5 HP Tecumseh engine.

It's around 15-20 years old I believe. Had worked plenty of hours while he used it for primary heat wood in north central Missouri. I've used it several times in the past few months, until...

I was helping out a work buddy with his firewood. The splitter had been going strong for about three hours pretty steady, the all of a sudden it acted like it just had no power. The engine would bog down a bit, and the hydraulic piston just seemed to have no "oomph" anymore. The fluid was not low, and not especially hot. We were about done anyway, so I just packed up and took it home.
A few weeks later I tried to use it on some semi-dry oak, and it was the same as the end of the last session. Just seemed to be unable to push through anything. Engine is working fine.

Am I looking at a "dead" hydraulic pump? (11 gpm, HC390705B)

I don't know if the filter has ever been changed. I do have a new one I just haven't gotten around to installing.
 
I doubt a filter issue, when they get plugged trust me you will know, it will blow out. But changing it not a bad idea.....
1. Keyway from pump to motor coupling would be first look at, under load it may start to slip if worn.
2. Can you install a psi gauge on output of pump and check psi. 1500-2000 max
3. Internal blowby of seals in ram. Rare but happened to mine. Dirty fluid, killed the seals over time....

Good luck, Bruce
 
It sounds like the coupler between the pump and engine has something wrong. The engine bogging down doesn't fit with that being the culprit though.
 
A bad control valve will cause issues like the OP describes...I missed his statement the engine runs fine.
 
3-4 times in the last year this issue has come up. seems every time that the cylinder or seals on the piston is the blame

agreed.

as the oil and piston get hot after a couple hours of use, the seals tend to leak more, if they're bad already.

that would be my first guess, especially considering the age and amount of usage it's had over the years.
 
I'm not versed in hydraulic stuff, but am a quick study... What sort of pressure gauge do I need? Something I could rent, or not expensive to buy? (recommend a part# or description?)
 
a local farm store should have what you need. if not, try a parts store like napa or maybe one of the others. they can also be ordered online very easily. try http://www.surpluscenter.com/ or ebay or maybe amazon. whatever brand or style you get make sure its glycerine filled and good for at least 4ooo or 5000 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch). your splitter should be set at around 2800-3000 MAX PSI so i would stay away from the 3k gauges. not sure what kind of fittings you will need for your exact application but usually a "T" fitting is required for adding a gauge. mount it someplace solid that doesnt vibrate with the motor. most just mount it on the valve. the threads on most gauges are 1/4 NPT-Male (National Pipe Thread... like the tapered threads on steel water lines). Now that i mentioned water lines i have to tell you DO NOT use any common steel water pipe fittings in a hydraulic application. they are not rated for the pressure and could burst causing an amputation or put an eye out. use only proper hydraulic fittings with the right thread and sealing design.

the gauge should look something like this

th


installed should look like this. i say again, don't use the water line fitting like in this picture. its just the best i could find in a quick internet search.

PIC00025.JPG
 
Thanks, looks like it's just like what I used when doing my research for installing my inground sprinkler system. Just a much higher pressure rating. I'll see what I can get checked out this weekend.
 
one would hope that a pressure gauge designed to register 5,000 psi would also be built with materials to handle that type of pressure.
 
From what you describe, engine bog down, I'd think the relief valve was suspect, possibly a broken spring. When working properly the relief valve will prevent the engine from bogging down. That's what it's supposed to do anyway.

Loss of ram power means the fluid is bypassing somewhere when it ain't supposed to. A broken relief valve spring can cause this.
 
From what you describe, engine bog down, I'd think the relief valve was suspect, possibly a broken spring. When working properly the relief valve will prevent the engine from bogging down. That's what it's supposed to do anyway.

Loss of ram power means the fluid is bypassing somewhere when it ain't supposed to. A broken relief valve spring can cause this.





Never thought of that......If engine bogs, that means prolly pump has enough output psi. But if broken/stuck spring in relief portion of control valve body is bad, yes it will fight itself!

:)
 
I have had a problem like your talking about a few times and it was the carburetor. Take the fuel bowl off clean it out spray carb cleaner up the main jet. Mine was only a year old the first time and again on year 2. I don't know about yours but mine has no fuel filter on it.

Mine would start and run ok then as soon as as I started splitting it would bog and shut off.
 
Doofis at shop ordered wrong gauge (30 psi). Hopefully all the fittings and correct gauge will be there Monday. Merry Christmas to all, and update soon.
 
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