splitter making 4000psi?

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Chris Gesek

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[album=medium]1800[/album]So I finally picked up a pressure gauge for the splitter I found on craigslist. I put a split in sideways and the gauge got up to 4000psi before I let off the lever in a hurry. Should there be a pressure relief on the valve? Can anyone suggest how to adjust the setting or otherwise troubleshoot? Runs and splits great but I don't want to blow anything up.

Thanks,
Chris
 
most splitters wont build over 3000-3500 psi before stalling the engine. Most splltter cyl and hoses are not rated for more than 3500psi either. If yours will build 4000psi I personally wouldnt mess with it because as soon as you turn the pressure down, you will hit a round that needs just a tad more power to get the job done. If you want to turn down the pressure, the relief adjustment is that nut with screw in it right beside the lever, Break the lock nut loose and turn the screw counter clockwise about a quarter turn at a time watching the pressure gauge until the you reach the pressure you desire. You will have to keep deadheading the cyl while making the adjustments. When you get it where you want it, just tighten the lock nut back down.
 
You said you got it off the list was it used it might not be reading correct,even new can be faulty 4,000 seems kinda high.
 
Splitter was used but the gauge is brand new. Previous owner seems to have cranked the adjuster all the way in. I've got it set just under 2500 and it still splits fine. Really glad I bought that gauge.

Thanks guys.

-Chris
 
Personally I find 2000-2500 PSI A JOKE for anything that cannot be split my an axe or maul. I tried setting mine there and ended up wrestling with logs and hooking chains around unsplit rounds.stuck in the wedges. Waste of time and energy. . . JMHO.
 
Personally I find 2000-2500 PSI A JOKE for anything that cannot be split my an axe or maul. I tried setting mine there and ended up wrestling with logs and hooking chains around unsplit rounds.stuck in the wedges. Waste of time and energy. . . JMHO.


I suppose that would depend on the size of your cylinder. A cylinder with a 5" bore and a 2" rod makes 49,000# of pushing force at 2500 psi. A 4" cylinder with a 1.5" rod makesa little over 31,000#. Big difference.
 
I suppose that would depend on the size of your cylinder. A cylinder with a 5" bore and a 2" rod makes 49,000# of pushing force at 2500 psi. A 4" cylinder with a 1.5" rod makesa little over 31,000#. Big difference.
Why would rod diameter affect splitting force since the pressure is working on the side of the piston away from the rod?Am I missing something?
 
I don't think that is possible?

I installed a gauge on a splitter once
A tee on the back of the valve sticking straight up and screwed the gauge in

It read 4500 -4600

So I turned the tee on its side so the gauge face is horizontal and got readings of 2800-2900


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Why would rod diameter affect splitting force since the pressure is working on the side of the piston away from the rod?Am I missing something?

Good catch, sorry about that. Those numbers are correct, but the rod diameter doesn't figure into the calculation.
 
I installed a gauge on a splitter once
A tee on the back of the valve sticking straight up and screwed the gauge in

It read 4500 -4600

So I turned the tee on its side so the gauge face is horizontal and got readings of 2800-2900

This dozes not compute PSI's are PSI's whatever the placement of the gauge,there could be a few PSI's difference but the difference you show is I think is incorrect.
 

Oil and air compress different
And air in oil will read differently
Turning a tee 90 degrees showed that the air was removed


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Rod size does calculate into max force a cylinder can create, I don't understand all the math but I know it is one of the factors including bore diameter and oil pressure.
I have had new gauges out of the box that are bad but less likely with fluid filled gauge made by one of the bigger manufacturers
 
Rod area subtracts from the pressurized area in the retract direction, but doesn't matter in extend direction. Full piston diamter in push, regardless of rod size.
Rod size DOES change the flow out of the rod side of cylinder when it is extending, buty not affect the puish force.

Bubbles in brake line are compressed to the same pressure as the brake fluid is. The compression of the air bubble means the system pressure does not build up, but the low pressure in air or brake fluid is the same.

Off topic, but bleeding the rear brake of a trials motorcycle can be a nightmare. Master cylinder about 10 mm in diamter, stroke about 10 mm. Total fluid moved is about the size of a large soybean. ANY air bubbles ameans no brake pressure build up. Can bleed first, or can take an hour of cussing, hanging mc vertical, etc.
 

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