Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

[zogger]

Spent another hour this morning splitting some silver maple with the Fiskar's and the CT. I have no horse in this race, and I'm not biased to either tool. The rounds were frozen and were 16"
and averaged 12" diameter.

I did 2 rounds each with each tool. All in all, the Fiskar's was easier to use; less effort to split the rounds, and it never stuck in the wood.
The CT did the job, but required more effort due to its weight and the repeated sticking in the round. And, as benp said, the CT split the wood, and the Fiskar's seemed to blow it apart.
For me, the CT will ride the truck with some wedges, and the Fiskar's will be the tool of choice for those morning splitting sessions to kill some time and get a workout.



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Have you taken a grinder to the council tools yet? As long as you don't BenP Hur the handle in half maybe just sharpening it a little, etc would help.

 

[Philbert]

I don't think I would be able to drive a 12" splitting block into the ground much further than a 24" block.

But you get the idea. Big difference depending on the type of soil too, like Zogger notes. A dirt driveway might be compacted fairly well, but a forest floor might have many inches of mulch or loose soil. A solid base means more of the impact is directed into the wood. Maybe think about driving a nail into a 2X4 that is laying on a sandy beach, versus on a piece of pavement.

I also like splitting blocks for their height, and to protect both my legs and tools.

Philbert

 

[benp]

But you get the idea. Big difference depending on the type of soil too, like Zogger notes. A dirt driveway might be compacted fairly well, but a forest floor might have many inches of mulch or loose soil. A solid base means more of the impact is directed into the wood. Maybe think about driving a nail into a 2X4 that is laying on a sandy beach, versus on a piece of pavement.

I also like splitting blocks for their height, and to protect both my legs and tools.

Philbert

Thanks for the clarity on that philbert. [emoji106]

I might have to find a one size fits most portable block.

 

[Philbert]

I might have to find a one size fits most portable block.

I like Zogger's idea of using the largest round as the splitting block, than splitting that one last. That is what I do unless I have a more 'permanent' splitting station.

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

But you get the idea. Big difference depending on the type of soil too, like Zogger notes. A dirt driveway might be compacted fairly well, but a forest floor might have many inches of mulch or loose soil. A solid base means more of the impact is directed into the wood. Maybe think about driving a nail into a 2X4 that is laying on a sandy beach, versus on a piece of pavement.

I also like splitting blocks for their height, and to protect both my legs and tools.

Philbert

True. Thanks for showing so much patience with my ignorant a$$. I must learn to stop over thinking things.

 

[zogger]

True. Thanks for showing so much patience with my ignorant a$$. I must learn to stop over thinking things.

Over thinking beats the snot outta under thinking, when it comes to running saws and axes and equipment. Youtube got a buncha "Hey Vern, watch this"! under thinking examples.

 

[Ambull01]

Over thinking beats the snot outta under thinking, when it comes to running saws and axes and equipment. Youtube got a buncha "Hey Vern, watch this"! under thinking examples.

lol. Yeah but it makes me slow as hell.

I absolutely have to evaluate the big picture. There's no walking up to a log and start bucking. I have to think about where to start bucking, where to stand, which way do I think the tree will roll, is there a chance of it rolling, are there things I could trip over, is the tree resting on branches under tension, etc. Came across a spring pole/branch under tension this weekend. I had to stop and evaluate it like a mathematical problem lol. Had to figure out the likeliest direction of the branch whipping, how/where to make tension relief cuts, etc.

 

[mikey517]

Sorry to hear it bit the dust so soon. Not a lot of cash outlay but you'd still think it would have lasted longer than that.

With all of the fanfare surrounding this tool when it first rolled into the AS scene, it's interesting to hear "the rest of the story" from an unbiased third party.

We should start a letter writing campaign to Husky to create a 36" splitting axe....

Nice looking stacks.

I like the rope - I have used bungie cord and chain to hold the rounds together. Do you just tie a simple knot in the rope? Maybe need a big cord lock or spring clamp!

Philbert

It's old dock line with a loop on one end. I just loop it through, pull tight and loop it around once or twice - just to keep the splits in place. The "block" i used today was a bit taller than the regular one I use. I just turned one of the maple rounds up to use.

Zogger, I did a light sharpening with the Dremel, but I didn't go into actual shape shifting. And I gotta believe BenP Hur's handle was defective to split right down the middle like that on just a couple of swings. I'd bet a call to Council Tool (or Bailey's) would rectify that situation.

Although I favor using the X27, I also like the Council Tool, but I will use it differently than Fiskar's. And in the interest of full disclosure, my absolute favorite splitting tool is the 27 ton Ariens. So there!!

 

[zogger]

lol. Yeah but it makes me slow as hell.

I absolutely have to evaluate the big picture. There's no walking up to a log and start bucking. I have to think about where to start bucking, where to stand, which way do I think the tree will roll, is there a chance of it rolling, are there things I could trip over, is the tree resting on branches under tension, etc. Came across a spring pole/branch under tension this weekend. I had to stop and evaluate it like a mathematical problem lol. Had to figure out the likeliest direction of the branch whipping, how/where to make tension relief cuts, etc.

Well, what's slower, not analyse that stuff, which is all necessary and proper, or get whacked a good one, perhaps trip to ER or morgue?

I wouldn't worry about it at all, you are doing swell.

I just putz at this stuff myself, you probably work much faster than I do. Heck, I have stared at trees on several different days before I felled them, just to make sure I was seeing everything properly and planning my cuts.

The super production pro guys have done it so much, they can be faster, but they still see and react to all the same things, and more. They have just done it so much it becomes a faster routine, plus way more muscle memory with the saw.

Now hand splitting, on a good day anyway, I am not too shabby, the other aspects of wood production, I putz at it carefully, at my own speed. I am years ahead, no need for me to go nutso panic mode on it.

There ain't no do-overs, gravity always works and macho bravado is no replacement for actual load physics knowledge and understanding. So don't sweat it.

 

[zogger]

It's old dock line with a loop on one end. I just loop it through, pull tight and loop it around once or twice - just to keep the splits in place. The "block" i used today was a bit taller than the regular one I use. I just turned one of the maple rounds up to use.

Jogger, I did a light sharpening with the Dremel, but I didn't go into actual shape shifting. And I gotta believe BenP Hur's handle was defective to split right down the middle like that on just a couple of swings. I'd bet a call to Council Tool (or Bailey's) would rectify that situation.

Although I favor using the X27, I also like the Council Tool, but I will use it differently than Fiskar's. And in the interest of full disclosure, my absolute favorite splitting tool is the 27 ton Ariens. So there!!

Don't blame ya a bit for your hierarchy there.

 

[zogger]

You saying someone's got a big butt?

Philbert

..err...why yes...I have been to walmart, there are loads of big butts out there, whoppers!

 

[Erik B]

lol. Yeah but it makes me slow as hell.

I absolutely have to evaluate the big picture. There's no walking up to a log and start bucking. I have to think about where to start bucking, where to stand, which way do I think the tree will roll, is there a chance of it rolling, are there things I could trip over, is the tree resting on branches under tension, etc. Came across a spring pole/branch under tension this weekend. I had to stop and evaluate it like a mathematical problem lol. Had to figure out the likeliest direction of the branch whipping, how/where to make tension relief cuts, etc.

Ambull, Just pick up one of your rounds and put it on another one and give and take a swing or two at it and see how that compares to splitting rounds on the ground. Not much analyzing necessary.

 

[Ambull01]

.

Ambull, Just pick up one of your rounds and put it on another one and give and take a swing or two at it and see how that compares to splitting rounds on the ground. Not much analyzing necessary.

No my friend, that is not what I was questioning.

 

[woodchuck357]

I have heard of several council maul handles splitting like that. I suspect their process for pressing the handles into the heads as the problem. The handle may be hanging up on the eye just long enough to start a split before sliding on in.

 

[svk]

I have heard of several council maul handles splitting like that. I suspect their process for pressing the handles into the heads as the problem. The handle may be hanging up on the eye just long enough to start a split before sliding on in.

You may be right.

Can't remember if it was Benp or someone else who posted a picture of the handle within the eye and it was fit very poorly.

 

[artbaldoni]

I just used the Fiskars sharpener. All I can say is for $10. WOW! I have been sharpening mine with a file and stone and the sharpener made it even sharper than new. After sharpening I split several of the uglies off the "hyd splitter" pile. Get the sharpener, actually get 2, one for the kitchen and one for the shop!

 

[zogger]

I just used the Fiskars sharpener. All I can say is for $10. WOW! I have been sharpening mine with a file and stone and the sharpener made it even sharper than new. After sharpening I split several of the uglies off the "hyd splitter" pile. Get the sharpener, actually get 2, one for the kitchen and one for the shop!

I got one and it has never worked for me. When you roll your edge across it, do the wheel things roll, or do they stay put?

 

[artbaldoni]

I got one and it has never worked for me. When you roll your edge across it, do the wheel things roll, or do they stay put?

Zog, they roll. The wheels of mine are partially groved and partially smooth.

I have never been a fan of sharpeners, figured for $10 what the heck. I can hone a pretty good edge by hand but this thing works for me. YRMV.

 

[Ambull01]

I just used the Fiskars sharpener. All I can say is for $10. WOW! I have been sharpening mine with a file and stone and the sharpener made it even sharper than new. After sharpening I split several of the uglies off the "hyd splitter" pile. Get the sharpener, actually get 2, one for the kitchen and one for the shop!

Awesome. You just solved something for me. I was trying to figure out the best way to sharpen my X27. First day I used it I tried to split a round on gravel. Went through and chipped the edge in a few spots. Love how most/all of the answers I need is contained in one site.

 

[artbaldoni]

Awesome. You just solved something for me. I was trying to figure out the best way to sharpen my X27. First day I used it I tried to split a round on gravel. Went through and chipped the edge in a few spots. Love how most/all of the answers I need is contained in one site.

I did the exact same thing. First swing, blew through the round, hit the ground, proceeded to punch myself in the face for being so stoopid! After a few filings the chip is almost gome...