Stihl 020t questions

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This score mark is easily .100 thousandths deep and extends from the end of the transfer all the way to the top. It is apparent that it lost a ring locating pin.I don't think it's going to buff out this time lol. When I have the funds and feel like tinkering with it, I will get the parts to fix it. I will probably go with another used oe cyl, buy a meteor piston (if made for this model), caber rings, new seals, rubber mounts and a carb. The intake boot looks to still be fine and free of cracks and tears. For right now I am going to bag it up and stick it on the shelf for later. I have been searching on my local craigslist and these saws are going for good money, $400-600 here. I think I can get it going have a little fun with it, sell it and make a solid profit off of it. Thanks for the information!
 
Macman125 said:
This score mark is easily .100 thousandths deep and extends from the end of the transfer all the way to the top. It is apparent that it lost a ring locating pin.I don't think it's going to buff out this time lol. When I have the funds and feel like tinkering with it, I will get the parts to fix it. I will probably go with another used oe cyl, buy a meteor piston (if made for this model), caber rings, new seals, rubber mounts and a carb. The intake boot looks to still be fine and free of cracks and tears. For right now I am going to bag it up and stick it on the shelf for later. I have been searching on my local craigslist and these saws are going for good money, $400-600 here. I think I can get it going have a little fun with it, sell it and make a solid profit off of it. Thanks for the information!
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Post pics of the gouge. There is a good chance if you stick a cheap piston in there just to see if it will work that it might. I think 20 bucks or even less and you can try . If that fails you know whats next . Send me the saw if you like I am good at getting them going very low cost.
 
Macman125 said:
Thanks for letting me know, I will have to do some price checking. I thought for sure a meteor would be cheaper.
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If you have a good dealer definitely check prices. The 200t piston... I think they are the same.... I sell for $28. Straight from a stihl dealer they should be a couple bucks cheaper
 
020t jug?
 

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I agree with Ford150, the OEM piston is so cheap that it doesn't justify buying an aftermarket one. Especially when you're looking to resell the saw. That's not true for all of the parts but trying to save $5 on the piston might cost you a whole bunch more on the sale.
 
juttree said:
I agree with Ford150, the OEM piston is so cheap that it doesn't justify buying an aftermarket one. Especially when you're looking to resell the saw. That's not true for all of the parts but trying to save $5 on the piston might cost you a whole bunch more on the sale.
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It certainly does justify buying a cheap one if he is not sure how it will work out with the scored cyl. Why wreck a 35.00 piston in checking if it will work out ? Once he sees it has good compression and it runs fine then if you are so inclined put a better one in. I think you will find the Farmertech with Caber rings quite adequate.
 
lone wolf said:
It certainly does justify buying a cheap one if he is not sure how it will work out with the scored cyl. Why wreck a 35.00 piston in checking if it will work out ? Once he sees it has good compression and it runs fine then if you are so inclined put a better one in. I think you will find the Farmertech with Caber rings quite adequate.
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That really doesn't make sense. He should buy an aftermarket piston to test it and then buy an OEM if the cylinder is good? With the right testing and a little help from this site the saw will be running. If the cylinder is bad he'll need to get a new one regardless of which piston he puts in. Buy it once and fix it right in my opinion. If he can feel anything in the cylinder with his fingernail and it's not just transfer that can be removed, he needs a new cylinder and shouldn't put an aftermarket or OEM in it.
 
juttree said:
That really doesn't make sense. He should buy an aftermarket piston to test it and then buy an OEM if the cylinder is good? With the right testing and a little help from this site the saw will be running. If the cylinder is bad he'll need to get a new one regardless of which piston he puts in. Buy it once and fix it right in my opinion. If he can feel anything in the cylinder with his fingernail and it's not just transfer that can be removed, he needs a new cylinder and shouldn't put an aftermarket or OEM in it.
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Maybe I wasn't clear. You can not accurately predict what compression will be by looking at a used cylinder ? This is a basic test of how much compression a used cyl will produce before spending more money. I will just send him a piston if I feel it will work based on the pics I see him post and we can find out what is what without spending a lot. Just cause it has a single score dont mean it wont work it depends on if its in a port or not.
 

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