Stihl 026 Piston/Cyl Replacement Questions

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Undy

ArboristSite Member
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Oct 6, 2012
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Location
Blue Mounds, WI
My 026 died from apparent old age. I bought it new, and it's seen 15 yrs. or so of woodcutting.

I just pulled the cylinder off, and it needs replacement. Before I order parts, I've got some questions about it. Any thoughts of wisdom are appreciated.

It's a 44m bore, but I'm seeing 44.7m piston/cyl kits available. Is this a wise upgrade to make? Any drawbacks to the increase? Another thread mentioned a "heat shield" was needed, if so where would I locate such an item?

Some parts are listed as coated with Nikasil. I read the Wiki definition of what it does, but is it necessary and/or worth it?

Should I pay the extra for the Stihl parts, or are there quality aftermarket parts available for this? Any recommendation on where to buy?

Since I'm there and they're all original, should I take the opportunity to replace the intake bellows and pulse hose anyway? They look okay and seem to be intact.

Thank you for your thoughts.
 
Is the cylinder scored? If not you chould be able to just put a piston in it. If the cylinder is scored, I would find a nice used Stihl cylinder and put a Meteor piston in it. I would replace all the rubber hoses while you are in there. It is not much more and it might save headache down the road.
 
Once the saw has 15 years on it there are other parts that will also need to be replaced. You might just want to buy new and then rebuild that one as a project.

But is that the saw is 15 years old, or it's had 15 years of use. Proper use?

Was it running ok before the piston let go? Do you have it apart?
 
The 026 is known to blow it's flywheel side crank seal. I would replace the crank seal, impulse line, and fuel line. The piston is shot if it's scored but you might be able to save the cylinder with some acid if you're careful. muriatic acid will eat off aluminum transfer from the chrome cylinder lining. However you need to be careful in using acid as it can eat any aluminum that it touches, IE transfers and cumbustion chamber. The 44.7mm kits make good power and with a couple drilled holes in the muffler you'll be running stonger than ever!

DO NOT buy the 026/260 cylinders from Hutzl (sp) on ebay. They are junk! I've had 3 of them and had to be refunded for all of them! I would go to Chainsaw Parts and get a good aftermarket P&C assembly. Or find a used OEM set on ebay and get a new set of rings for the used P&C!
 
Is the cylinder scored? If not you chould be able to just put a piston in it. If the cylinder is scored, I would find a nice used Stihl cylinder and put a Meteor piston in it. I would replace all the rubber hoses while you are in there. It is not much more and it might save headache down the road.

What was said above :D

I just did a 026 and all I did was clean up the cylinder and replace piston and rings (with a Meteor) and what was said above but I also replaced the carb with and adjustable carb :msp_smile:

I ran it the other day with no problems with a 20" 3/8's" b/c and today switched it to 20" and 18" .325 b/c just to play with a different setup and it ran great :msp_biggrin:
 
If you got 15 good years out of the saw - you got your $$'s worth..!!

If the rest of the saw isn't broken up - I'd replace with an OEM cylinder and piston...etc

I just don't like using aftermarket brands - OEM used is OK..maybe a Meteor piston - but that's as far as I go.

Finding good used OEM 026 cylinders and pistons is pretty easy - eBay...just have to be patient..!!

Or AS sponsor...'chainsawr'...sells quality used parts...(at top of this page)...click on and do search or call 'em..!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclosure: 90% of the saws I work on are Stihl...only one Husky dealer...but he's also the largest Stihl dealer here..!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
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Husky,

There are wear marks in the cyl. Not grooves, but noticeable. Also the spark plug hole is somewhat worn. I don't believe it was cross-threaded, but some of the threads are broken and parts missing.

Stihl kits are available on Ebay. Wouldn't this make as much sense (cents) as a good used Stihl cyl and a Meteor piston?

Agreed on the rubber parts then. I'll buy new.

RMH,

What else would you recommend I be considering?

The crank bearings seem fine, and we couldn't detect crank seal leakage. I've got some slop in the clutch bearing. The shaft measures 10mm and the clutch id is 13mm, in case you'd know if those numbers are bad. Otherwise I thought I'd get a new clutch bearing.

UK,

Yes, good, but hard use. Good oil, sharp chain, kept clean and cased, used a LOT but kindly and only farm/residential use.

Yes it's apart, case still together, cyl head off.

NTS,

Thank you for the 44.7mm advice. I was tempted but didn't want to make my saw into something unusable. I'm not crazy about working with acids, so I'm likely to go with a different cyl. There are Stihl 44.7m kits on Ebay, and I assume they would work also. I'll check the link you supplied and compare some prices.

Thanks for the input. I see there are more, and I'll reply next.

Paul
 
Some pics of the piston and cylinder damage would be good...

Also so others know; I offered to clean the cylinder with acid for him since he doesn't feel comfortable enough to do it himself. Told him in the PM that the worst case senerio would be that the piston ate through the chrome lining and he'd be out $5 in shipping if the cylinder was to far gone... If it's still good, he'd only need a $30 meteor piston.

Undy,
You'll be fine to buy a used P&C if the are not scored. 44.7mm kits came on the ms260 (same saw just newer version). Some could make the case that port timing made the old 44mm "D-shaped" cumbustion chamber a better cylinder to make modified power out of. For simplicity you can order either and either will work. If you by a stihl kit make sure it comes with a Piston and cylinder (if used then buy new rings). if I can save the cylinder for you... you can buy a good AM piston like meteor and only need to spend $30 instead of $80+ on OEM.
 
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Split it and replace the bearings and seals :msp_smile:

Then everything will be new :msp_biggrin:

Use Northwood Saw for getting your parts they get your parts to ya fast :)
 
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H2H,

I've always run a short blade to keep the weight low. I've got a bad back...

Jus2,

Oh don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining. I've gotten my share of cutting out of it. But I expect that out of Stihls. I've still got my Dad's 041 Farm Boss he bought new. I'd like to keep this one running to use, but also sort of sentimentally. (I know, call me weird.)

I'm inclined to stay with factory parts, and I'd like to fix it for use this year. I'm not too hung up on price, but I can't afford to throw my money away either.

Nst,

PM sent back.

I don't have photo ability, but I agree that would be best. I may well send it to you to get your opinion. But I'll still have to deal with the plug threads. I assume that can be helicoiled or something.

I'm sort of leaning towards the OEM 44.7 kit. I'll get some prices.

Thanks all.
 
Split it and replace the bearings and seals

Then everything will be new

Yeah, I've considered that too. But I'm reluctant to go tearing it apart while it's still not broke. And it seems like a fair amount of extra effort. Then again...
 
If your worried about how to do it there is a vid on utube that shows what and how to do it

Watch it a few times then decide if you want to tackle it
 
The one with the Welsh (or something) gent? It didn't look that bad (although I agree with him that I better mis-use my wife's oven when she's out). I guess I'm weighing that against the extra effort and time it'll take. Usually there is a part or two that take forever to get and...
 
Okay, here are prices I've found:

Genuine Stihl 44.7mm kit including cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, and clips for $160.

Northwoods Saw 44.7mm kit including aftermarket Nikasil coated cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, clips, studs, and compression release plug for $95.

Is it worth the extra money for the factory parts?

Opinions on Nikasil?
 
While I'm asking questions...

If I go with the 44.7mm piston/cyl., I assume it needs more air/fuel. Do I need to increase the size of the carb?? Or just adjust it richer?
 
While I'm asking questions...

If I go with the 44.7mm piston/cyl., I assume it needs more air/fuel. Do I need to increase the size of the carb?? Or just adjust it richer?

If it's adjustable, adjust it. If not, replace it with an adjustable.
 
The one with the Welsh (or something) gent? It didn't look that bad (although I agree with him that I better mis-use my wife's oven when she's out). I guess I'm weighing that against the extra effort and time it'll take. Usually there is a part or two that take forever to get and...

Hahaha, Welsh.

I think he's from up north, well most people are north of me. Sounds like an interesting 'gent'. :D
 
Nikisil is a better bore finish than factory chrome. lasts longer... and northwoods only gets quality AM kits. I wouldn't be affraid to use an AM from northwoods.

Honestly you can send me the cylinder tomorrow and I'll have it by wed/thurs and you can replace seals and clean saw in the mean time. If I give the OK on cylinder by thurs/friday you can order a meteor from northwoods and have the cylinder and new piston by early next week.

OR get these two for $80ish! Would be half price and just as good or better than OEM quality!
Stihl 026 MS 260 44mm Cylinder 1121 Chainsaw FREE SHIP | eBay

Replacement Piston for Stihl 026
 
While I'm asking questions...

If I go with the 44.7mm piston/cyl., I assume it needs more air/fuel. Do I need to increase the size of the carb?? Or just adjust it richer?

I would tune the carb to the cylinder. Read madsens guide on tuning...
Saw Carb Tuning

If you have 3 carb screws you'll be fine to retune the carb to the new cylinder no matter what you get. If you only have 2 screws that means your "H" screw or high jet is fixed. You DO NOT want a fixed "H" jet carb. the best carb for these saws is a wt194 but there is a wt22 that works well too. the carb model is stamped on the side.
 
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