jus2fat
Two Harley Fatboys
You could put a gun to my head and I still wouldn't buy anything from 'Northwoods' again...once burned - twice shy..!!
J3F
Stihl 026 Piston/Cyl Replacement Questions
- Thread starter Undy
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J3F
You could put a gun to my head and I still wouldn't buy anything from 'Northwoods' again...once burned - twice shy..!!
J3F
really? never heard anyone say anything bad about them... really quick shipping and good products
jus2fat
Two Harley Fatboys
To be honest...it's been a while back...sooo...I hope they've changed their personnel and better quality of some products.
I'm just old..and once screwed over..you've lost my business..!! - I hope they've changed and are doing folks right now..!!
:cheers
J2F
Dan Forsh
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hahaha, Welsh.
I think he's from up north, well most people are north of me. Sounds like an interesting 'gent'.
Where did you find this guy, he's a legend! I can't stop watching his videos, it's like the faulty towers of saw repair. I just watched him pick up a paint tin to sit the piston on for the camera while refitting the rings, he thinks for a minute, blows a ton of crap off the lid then carries on.
I'm not saying he doesn't know his stuff, but his delivery is classic, comedy gold!
This gets better, he's using a blow lamp to fit the gudgeon pin now.
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husqvarnaguy
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have put the Stihl 44.7mm on some without any problems. Check around for better prices. I bought a new OEM one for $120 on ebay.
The vid's are funny to watch but you get to see what need's to been done; you just have to weed thru the bs
Undy
ArboristSite Member
Okay, sorry to hijack my own thread, but maybe that's okay huh? Here's another one of those priceless old guys on video (not at all chainsaw related): Fred Dibnah - Steeplejack (Part 1/6) - YouTube
Thanks for all the excellent observations. I'm likely to send the cylinder over for a look-see. I'm going to sleep on this and decide in the morning.
Cheers,
Paul
Thanks for all the excellent observations. I'm likely to send the cylinder over for a look-see. I'm going to sleep on this and decide in the morning.
Cheers,
Paul
Revival...
Undy put the cylinder in the mail to me yesterday. I am going to acid treat it for him to see if it's salvagable. Just wanted to keep all you guys in the loop.
I'll post pics when I get it and what it looks like once I clean it.
Undy put the cylinder in the mail to me yesterday. I am going to acid treat it for him to see if it's salvagable. Just wanted to keep all you guys in the loop.
I'll post pics when I get it and what it looks like once I clean it.
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Undy
ArboristSite Member
Update.
Nstueve notified me that the cylinder is too far gone to reuse. I ended up ordering an aftermarket 44.7 cylinder and piston and all the rubber parts. I figure the saw has served me well, and I can afford to experiment a little with it at this point.
Besides, in the past week I've been given a MS-250 in great shape and a 028AV Super which I've gotten back in proper order. Looks like it's back to the woods for me...
I'll let you know how the 026 works out. Thanks to everybody for input, and huge thanks to Nstueve for trying to save the original cylinder for me.
Nstueve notified me that the cylinder is too far gone to reuse. I ended up ordering an aftermarket 44.7 cylinder and piston and all the rubber parts. I figure the saw has served me well, and I can afford to experiment a little with it at this point.
Besides, in the past week I've been given a MS-250 in great shape and a 028AV Super which I've gotten back in proper order. Looks like it's back to the woods for me...
I'll let you know how the 026 works out. Thanks to everybody for input, and huge thanks to Nstueve for trying to save the original cylinder for me.
Undy
ArboristSite Member
Well, I got the parts from Northwoods with no problems whatsoever. I did not end up replacing the crank seals, since they weren't leaking, but I did replace the fuel hose, impulse line and manifold. The parts all installed pretty easily, with the exception of the piston wrist pin clips. What a major pain they were!!
The youtube video was very helpful.
The first day out, the saw wasn't very impressive. It ran okay, but not great.
But yesterday I had it out again. We got it good and warm and re-adjusted things a bit, and it was much better. It turned out my carb does not have the hi adjust on it, so I guess I'm in the market for a replacement carb.
Thanks again for all input.
The youtube video was very helpful.
The first day out, the saw wasn't very impressive. It ran okay, but not great.
But yesterday I had it out again. We got it good and warm and re-adjusted things a bit, and it was much better. It turned out my carb does not have the hi adjust on it, so I guess I'm in the market for a replacement carb.
Thanks again for all input.
sounds like you are covered, but just for record, Bcorradi (sp?) here had oem NOS 026 top ends for under $100 at one time. Not sure of his current stock.
I'd be nervous about the crank seals unless you are absolutely sure of the PV test. After 15 years, I'd change all hoses and seals. Otherwise it is a gamble. Don't ask......
I'd be nervous about the crank seals unless you are absolutely sure of the PV test. After 15 years, I'd change all hoses and seals. Otherwise it is a gamble. Don't ask......
If I may add my own similar story I already messaged nstueve, I will do so here but also start my own thread to address my TWO 026 saws since I just got a 2nd one today.
Hi, I am new to the site but am very thankful for guys like you here. My name is Mark or u can call me chili if you like.
Anyway, I was reading here....and I saw the OP and others talking about the various options at reviving slightly to more majorly scored Pistons and cylinders.
It is mentioned several options from new P and C's OEM or Meteor etc and starting fresh that way. Or else doing the acid washing nstueve mentioned.
Why I write my message here is because I bought a backup 026 off a guy today for a around $100 if you subtract all the extra things he included in the sale. I got the Saw, case, 3 chains, 16 inch Stihl bar, wedges, scrench etc. for a little more money. Anyway, I looked inside the cylinder to find piston lightly scored, so I talked him down from his original price instead of walking away to find a different saw. I already own one I bought new around 1994. This one felt like it has less compression than mine. The reason I bought another is it runs but mine currently doesn't and I am waiting on parts.
Sorry this is so long, but on my way home to Maryland from PA with the new 026, I stopped in at the True Value Stihl Dealer I get good service from up in PA to see about buying a fuel line and impulse line for my original saw. Unlike the closest dealer to me, they had em in stock. Happy me. They also have a Demonstration scored to heck piston and cylinder that people can see what running straight gas etc can do to them. I asked the parts manager if he would mind looking at the cylinder in my new saw. He confirmed my findings of light scoring of the piston and added he saw some on the intake side of the cylinder.
I hadn't noticed too serious damage. Anyway, I asked him advice what I should do. He said run it till it dies and then fix it at that time or of course spend money right away and redo it.
When I bought the saw and left the dealer I planned to re-read and re-find the advice I saw on this site as I lurked for 026 knowledge for my other saw and that brought me to you and the others.
My thoughts run contrary to the parts manager's advice of running till it dies. I think it is best to do as little further damage to the parts and see what is salvageable and do like you said, acid cylinder, if not too damaged, get piston and rings and the saw should be a good runner for many years to come.
Feel free to add any additional advice, thanks. Oh and this is my inaugural post here. Woo hoo
Hi, I am new to the site but am very thankful for guys like you here. My name is Mark or u can call me chili if you like.
Anyway, I was reading here....and I saw the OP and others talking about the various options at reviving slightly to more majorly scored Pistons and cylinders.
It is mentioned several options from new P and C's OEM or Meteor etc and starting fresh that way. Or else doing the acid washing nstueve mentioned.
Why I write my message here is because I bought a backup 026 off a guy today for a around $100 if you subtract all the extra things he included in the sale. I got the Saw, case, 3 chains, 16 inch Stihl bar, wedges, scrench etc. for a little more money. Anyway, I looked inside the cylinder to find piston lightly scored, so I talked him down from his original price instead of walking away to find a different saw. I already own one I bought new around 1994. This one felt like it has less compression than mine. The reason I bought another is it runs but mine currently doesn't and I am waiting on parts.
Sorry this is so long, but on my way home to Maryland from PA with the new 026, I stopped in at the True Value Stihl Dealer I get good service from up in PA to see about buying a fuel line and impulse line for my original saw. Unlike the closest dealer to me, they had em in stock. Happy me. They also have a Demonstration scored to heck piston and cylinder that people can see what running straight gas etc can do to them. I asked the parts manager if he would mind looking at the cylinder in my new saw. He confirmed my findings of light scoring of the piston and added he saw some on the intake side of the cylinder.
I hadn't noticed too serious damage. Anyway, I asked him advice what I should do. He said run it till it dies and then fix it at that time or of course spend money right away and redo it.
When I bought the saw and left the dealer I planned to re-read and re-find the advice I saw on this site as I lurked for 026 knowledge for my other saw and that brought me to you and the others.
My thoughts run contrary to the parts manager's advice of running till it dies. I think it is best to do as little further damage to the parts and see what is salvageable and do like you said, acid cylinder, if not too damaged, get piston and rings and the saw should be a good runner for many years to come.
Feel free to add any additional advice, thanks. Oh and this is my inaugural post here. Woo hoo
Rebuild it immediately, you can save the cylinder by cleaning it up, install a new piston, either OEM preferred or a good quality AM piston like Meteor with Caber rings.
Thank you, Pioneer. I am glad I grew up poor sometimes. It gave me a good sense of how to preserve broken down things and keep em useful long after many would have put them out for trash collection. I wholeheartedly concur and appreciate your advice, brother.
And thanks for the " like" of my initial post, kevin j.
I am very excited to have a 2nd 026, AND now with the prospect of finding sources of ethanol free fuel other than premixed in the can Stihl/Echo or the swill of 10% ethanol stuff I will be more confident of not ruining my saws/string trimmers, blowers etc.
And thanks for the " like" of my initial post, kevin j.
I am very excited to have a 2nd 026, AND now with the prospect of finding sources of ethanol free fuel other than premixed in the can Stihl/Echo or the swill of 10% ethanol stuff I will be more confident of not ruining my saws/string trimmers, blowers etc.
Hi Kevin, in reference to your advice to undy in 2012 about the seals and the 15 year old saw and the PV ( need to know what PV stands for), NEVER MIND I FIGURED IT OUT. "Pressure and Vacuum" If my original 23 year old 026 was an occasional use saw and has good compression and non heavy use, what constitutes the need for new crank seals? Other than pressure testing the saw to be sure the health of these parts, how likely is it a saw will leak at these seals simply due to it being my original 23 year old saw? Kevin in my haste to learn how to diagnose and replace these seals, I pretty much answered my own question I asked you. Thus I will say thanks for bringing this potential issue to light so we who have not experienced this issue can learn it exists.
I did find these videos,,, and I plan to watch others to gain more understanding. From what I have seen so far, I have a great handle on the need for proper sealing of the entire saw, good leak free fuel and impulse lines etc. From the little bit of reading of posts by forum members, you tube vids, and finally some hands on disassembly and reassembly of my original 026, I have a much clearer idea of how these things are built and put together and what it takes to make sure they stay put together properly to ensure a well running saw.
Watched the first minutes of this and think I will learn a lot watching it to the end too.
I really like the 026 saws, they grew on me back when I was running 70cc saws a friend found me one that was mostly complete, he paid $5. for it and after I cleaned it up and found an airfilter+cover it is still running 8+ years now. After my first go round with one I started finding many of them, last count I have owned more than 30 of them, easy saws to work on and built very well for the long haul.
Nice to know and glad you had success with your experiences with your 026's, Pioneer. This message will relate to my Original 026, not the running one I got yesterday with the piston issue.
I tried to remember how I actually got the 026 as my first saw ever. I know where I got it, and I know when. I just can't remember how I actually chose the 026 or was recommended it by the man at the dealer. I grew up near the hardware store that eventually grew to also be an equipment rental place and Stihl dealer. I trusted shopping there for tools as it was like a mom and pop place on steroids with nice staff.
Anyway, I am just glad I decided to get the 026 as it served me well for 20+ years until recently when it became hard to start and also poor running at high speed/bog/stalling when brought back to idle, etc.
Anyway, short of a vacuum pump, I have just about all I need to diagnose and fix the running issues. New fuel line, I got the short early version and the longer S version in case I want to get a different tank or enlarge the hole in my tank. Also the impulse line and a new carb, a carb rebuild kit for my original WT 194, and finally a backup 026 I know was running.
I won't make this much longer wording wise,,,, just will say I should be systematic in diagnosing and to follow the advice and procedures I have learned so far.
My first test should be the simplest. I will pull my exhaust again and look even closer at my piston and cylinder before proceeding any other step. I looked once and it was plenty wet in there, and I did not see scoring and my saw has real good compression. If all looks good, I will then be about trying to restart it after I replace the fuel line and impulse line and try to start with the old plug and old carb left unchanged. I know my fuel line was gummy and thus potentially starving the saw for fuel and or leaking vac so this is definitely my first part to replace.
Results of this test to follow.
PS. I just bought a Mityvac MV8500 Pressure Vac kit and will be set for all future saws, cars, mowers, weed wackers etc. Can't wait for delivery.
I tried to remember how I actually got the 026 as my first saw ever. I know where I got it, and I know when. I just can't remember how I actually chose the 026 or was recommended it by the man at the dealer. I grew up near the hardware store that eventually grew to also be an equipment rental place and Stihl dealer. I trusted shopping there for tools as it was like a mom and pop place on steroids with nice staff.
Anyway, I am just glad I decided to get the 026 as it served me well for 20+ years until recently when it became hard to start and also poor running at high speed/bog/stalling when brought back to idle, etc.
Anyway, short of a vacuum pump, I have just about all I need to diagnose and fix the running issues. New fuel line, I got the short early version and the longer S version in case I want to get a different tank or enlarge the hole in my tank. Also the impulse line and a new carb, a carb rebuild kit for my original WT 194, and finally a backup 026 I know was running.
I won't make this much longer wording wise,,,, just will say I should be systematic in diagnosing and to follow the advice and procedures I have learned so far.
My first test should be the simplest. I will pull my exhaust again and look even closer at my piston and cylinder before proceeding any other step. I looked once and it was plenty wet in there, and I did not see scoring and my saw has real good compression. If all looks good, I will then be about trying to restart it after I replace the fuel line and impulse line and try to start with the old plug and old carb left unchanged. I know my fuel line was gummy and thus potentially starving the saw for fuel and or leaking vac so this is definitely my first part to replace.
Results of this test to follow.
PS. I just bought a Mityvac MV8500 Pressure Vac kit and will be set for all future saws, cars, mowers, weed wackers etc. Can't wait for delivery.
Well, today was a Murphy's law day. Some good some bad. On the good side, upon pulling the muffler off my original 026, I was happy to see a smooth piston and cylinder.
The bad news is when I looked for where I put my bag of fuel line and impulse line I was working with on Wednesday, I could not find it today,Thursday. So, today was an exercise in trying to find it, plus not lose my temper at myself. Nothing like wasting a bag with $30 in saw parts and Loctite etc.
Needless to say, I am biting the bullet about having to go buy new ones a 2nd time.
The bad news is when I looked for where I put my bag of fuel line and impulse line I was working with on Wednesday, I could not find it today,Thursday. So, today was an exercise in trying to find it, plus not lose my temper at myself. Nothing like wasting a bag with $30 in saw parts and Loctite etc.
Needless to say, I am biting the bullet about having to go buy new ones a 2nd time.
Ok guys, thanks again for advice and listening to my progress and setbacks.
Yesterday, I went out to get another fuel line and some chainsaw tools.
Today I woke early and got busy. I got my original 026 out and then my new/used one with scored p and c.
On my scored 026, I separated the engine part from the handle/fuel tank assembly to clean all the gunk off as a preliminary step for when I do the top end.
Next, I got around to my original non running 026. I cleaned it Monday, so I was good to go to swap out the fuel line and impulse line and reassembled things using the original carb. Tried many pulls and no blip. Next course of action was swap in the new OEM carb I got. Reassembled, and a few pulls later, she began to run. Let it idle a bit and I think it stalled. A few pulls later and she seems to run really nice. Ran saw thru ranges from idle to 1/2-3/4 throttle, to / off. Did this a few cycles worth and put saw away.
Next check: Try cold start after a couple hours cool down.
After that I need to check the oiler, oil line-seals and do some bar upkeep. Hopefully all is good and all I need is to sharpen a couple chains before tackling the one needing top end work.
Yesterday, I went out to get another fuel line and some chainsaw tools.
Today I woke early and got busy. I got my original 026 out and then my new/used one with scored p and c.
On my scored 026, I separated the engine part from the handle/fuel tank assembly to clean all the gunk off as a preliminary step for when I do the top end.
Next, I got around to my original non running 026. I cleaned it Monday, so I was good to go to swap out the fuel line and impulse line and reassembled things using the original carb. Tried many pulls and no blip. Next course of action was swap in the new OEM carb I got. Reassembled, and a few pulls later, she began to run. Let it idle a bit and I think it stalled. A few pulls later and she seems to run really nice. Ran saw thru ranges from idle to 1/2-3/4 throttle, to / off. Did this a few cycles worth and put saw away.
Next check: Try cold start after a couple hours cool down.
After that I need to check the oiler, oil line-seals and do some bar upkeep. Hopefully all is good and all I need is to sharpen a couple chains before tackling the one needing top end work.
