Stihl 031av chain saw points setting/cleaning

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031

No just put some gas in the tank and tried pulling it over quite a few times and nothing. This saw sat for a long time in someones garage.

If you have spark, try putting a small amount of fuel directly into the carb & see if it start or at least pops. If you get the saw to fire, then install a carb kit.
 
Oh Yeah! gas in the carb got it running. Where do I get the rebuild kit from Shihl dealer also?

Does it take a while for the gas to get from the tank to the carb if its been empty for some time? And does the saw have a fuel pump?
 
031 carb kit

:victory:Go to your stihl dealer or local small engine shop for a carb kit. Remove the carb like I said in a previous post. You need to let parts person know what make & model the carb is. The carb should have a small # stamped on it. Or take the carb with you. Hope this helps.
 
thanks, what about the fuel pump,or is it just drafted into the carburetor?

The fuel pump is in the carb. One side of the carb pumps fuel while the other side meters it to the engine.

Actually when you think about it, these tiny carburetors do everything, and with a high level of accuracy and longevity. There are only a few things that really make them malfunction; age, bad fuel, and non-use.
 
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What does the impulse lune do to the carburetor on a 031av?

The impulse line is absolutely needed to pump fuel into the carburetor. It is connected directly to the crankcase, and when the piston goes up and down (or backwards and forwards), it puts positive and negative pressure to the carburetor's fuel pump side. This is how the carburetor is able to pump fuel.

Remember that one side of the carb pumps while the other side meters the flow of fuel to the engine.

Bob
 
Some of the early model 031 didn't have an impulse line. There is a tiny hole in the carb and one in the manifold. This serves the same purpose as an impulse line but the carbs are different. Make sure you have two fuel lines on your carb when you and if you do, tell your dealer about that so they order the correct kit.
 
Some of the early model 031 didn't have an impulse line. There is a tiny hole in the carb and one in the manifold. This serves the same purpose as an impulse line but the carbs are different. Make sure you have two fuel lines on your carb when you and if you do, tell your dealer about that so they order the correct kit.

Sorry to disagree with you, but you are probably thinking about the 040's. They had the impulse through the intake stack. Stihl corrected that MISTAKE with the 041. The 040 carburetors and then the 041's were bolted to the cylinder through a manifold with several gaskets. These saws were the last to use this carburetor intake design, and the 041 had a separate impulse line.

This changed with the 030 and then after a year or two with the 031. They did not connect directly to the cylinder, but were the first to use a rubberlike intake boot. There was no way to get impulse to the carburetor through this boot, so there was an impulse line to the carb. (If I am wrong I will apologise) By the way, the intake boot for the 030's was absolute junk. We had to replace lots of those crappy boots. It was solved with better matarials and design on the 031. We didn't have any trouble from there on.

Bob
 
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Sorry to disagree with you, but you are probably thinking about the 040's. They had the impulse through the intake stack. Stihl corrected that MISTAKE with the 041. The 040 carburetors and then the 041's were bolted to the cylinder through a manifold with several gaskets. These saws were the last to use this carburetor intake design, and the 041 had a separate impulse line.

This changed with the 030 and then after a year or two with the 031. They did not connect directly to the cylinder, but were the first to use a rubberlike intake boot. There was no way to get impulse to the carburetor through this boot, so there was an impulse line to the carb. (If I am wrong I will apologise) By the way, the intake boot for the 030's was absolute junk. We had to replace lots of those crappy boots. It was solved with better matarials and design on the 031. We didn't have any trouble from there on.

Bob

Yeah I think you are right. I'm getting my numbers mixed up. After sleeping on it, the 031 is impulse driven and the ports can be either in the cylinder or on the crankcase.
 
A hint on the carb. kit. If it's a Tilly, go to their web page and download the "kit reference chart" that'll tell ya which kit it takes. Then go to a local small engine shop. They will range from 7.00 to 10.00 bucks on average. Stihl kits typ. run around 25.00 and are just re-packaged. Unless ya got a good dealer that you just want to support. If it's a Walbro, they have a reference page also. I've got both, just post the carb. model and I'll let ya know what it takes.
Also, when settin the metering lever, be sure to get it set level w/sides as this seems to be very sensative on this particular model. Also, HIGHLY recommend a Nova 2 as a good fix for points/condensor problems. These folks were in-valuable in helping me do a complete re-build on one a few weeks ago.
 
Yeah. The K10-WAT is correct. It is Walbro brand kit & I pay 8.75 for those, I think.
 
Or chain saws for Dummies! lol

I see the Walboro kit for 10.99 + 1.99 shiping.

If the impulse tube is missing some of its rubber at the carb would this cause a problem with the pump working correctly?
 
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I didn't read the whole thing but:
On points, oil is the enemy. If some gets on the contacts it will shut you down. After cleaning and setting them drag a strip of copy paper thru them when closed to clean the surface.

Now I'll go back to the beginning.
 
It's gotta have a good tight connection to work properly. I made a new one from the yellow fuel line that I get at the local NAPA & it worked great (cheap too). Internet price for the carb. ain't bad. Check around at your local small engine shops too. I've got one that stocks pretty much all the kits for Zama, Walbro, & Tilly. Plus I don't have to wait on shipping. You'll have that dude screamin' fore long!!
 

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