Stihl 041

[a. palmer jr.]

Having an awful time getting this Stihl 041AV to run. I've cleaned the carburetor and put new intake gaskets on it, new points and condenser, now has a big spark but it only hit a few times and died, now won't even hit even though I squirted a little fuel mix down the carb throat. Last time I checked it had around 150 compression although I'll be checking it again to be sure my memory is right...any suggestions? Guess I could try a different plug..

 

[HarleyT]

Drain the tanks and make sure that it isn't flooded.
It should run good until the last of the fuel is burned off.

If it doesn't, then your problems are elsewhere.

 

[merc_man]

Have you pulled the plug to see if wet?

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[HarleyT]

Have you pulled the plug to see if wet?

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Kind of a personal question....

 

[Stihlbillie]

Kind of a personal question....

Lmao

 

[merc_man]

Dam it harley .get you mind oit of the gutter. Lol

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[a. palmer jr.]

I just filled the tank and unblocked the vent in the cap, spark plug was kinda wet. I'm thinking saw is out of time because when it did hit it sounded really sluggish like it had hardly any power and even when I primed it the saw had no tendency to kick back. I'm still gonna check compression tomorrow if I don't get involved in something else..Wondering also if the condenser is okay although it has a really good spark. I've been told that a condenser that is open will still produce a spark but it won't be on time.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Drain the tanks and make sure that it isn't flooded.
It should run good until the last of the fuel is burned off.

If it doesn't, then your problems are elsewhere.

Pretty sure my problem is elsewhere...looks like I may have set the points a little too narrow at .014 so may widen them a couple of thou...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've been kinda putting it off but may pull the timing light out and see how close the timing is..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not sure what the initial carb settings are either, I started with around 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. I don't remember what carb was on it but thinking it was a Walbro, second thought, I guess it was a Tillotson since that was the standard for these saws.

 

[Stihlbillie]

Tillotson

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Even though I said tomorrow, I went out and did a couple of checks on the 041. Tried a couple of extra spark plugs in it, great fire but didn't run. Re-checked the compression, right at 150. So, I guess that's out of the way.

 

[alexcagle]

Are you checking the spark with the plug installed? That does matter sometimes. Load testing is what they call it. It seems like points type saws were more prone to act up suspiciously that way.
*
All though the coil is under the flywheel, you can index marks of orientation.
The two magnet's center point on the flywheel should lead the center of the the coil field center by 26 degrees. The flywheel should be roughly 1" ahead at TDC of the coil (going counterclockwise).

 

[Stihlbillie]

True. Sometimes compression kills spark.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Are you checking the spark with the plug installed? That does matter sometimes. Load testing is what they call it. It seems like points type saws were more prone to act up suspiciously that way.
*
All though the coil is under the flywheel, you can index marks of orientation.
The two magnet's center point on the flywheel should lead the center of the the coil field center by 26 degrees. The flywheel should be roughly 1" ahead at TDC of the coil (going counterclockwise).

I think this flywheel has 4 magnets otherwise I' slap a Nova chip in it. I had planned on using a timing light while turning it over with an electric drill to check the timing. I also have an inline spark checker I could use for the presence of spark. I'm kinda thinking it might have a condenser that might be off value a bit but really not sure, it's got about the hottest spark I've seen on a saw, that's why I'm guessing it's out of time. This saw has a rotating points plate and it's possible a previous owner might have turned it for some reason..

 

[Ted Jenkins]

It seems some what dumb to mention this, but just in case I will. Many times have tried to start a saw just to find that it was flooded. The spark plug can not come out of the saw wet. If it is wet then that problem needs to be fixed. Open the back of the carb and take the plug out then blow out the combustion chamber with compressed air, but not enough pressure to damage anything. After it is really dry put a plug back in that has run another saw well and adjust your needles about 3/4 out. After several attempts and no fire at all adjust your needles to 1 full turn and see if you get any poping or if it tries to start. If it is still dead then you probably will have to study the timing and correct it as needed. Thanks

 

[Conquistador3]

For what it's worth the only time I saw something like that it was the condenser acting up. It took me almost two week to figure I may have a bad condenser and another two to find a known good one to borrow.
What a nightmare... then people ask me me for me it's electronic ignition all the way.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I would go electronic on this one but I might have to change the flywheel plus the ignition, just seemed like too much expense. I have a condenser ordered for this saw, just tried a used one while I'm waiting for the new one. I don't know anything about this used one except it's not shorted out, I checked that. Hard to check for an open condenser with a digital meter..I'll put the new one in when it gets here.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I tried checking the condenser with a digital ohmmeter, usually you can check it then reverse the leads and get somewhat of a flicker because of the charging/discharging of the condenser...on this one I didn't get anything, so there's a possibility it's open. The new condenser has been ordered for two weeks and supposedly has shipped right after I paid so hopefully....
I think I have some of the WIMA capacitors, wonder if that would be worthwhile to try or should I just wait? I won't be needing this saw and it will probably be used as trading material if I ever get it done...

I just checked one of the WIMAs and it made the meter go up and down as the leads were reversed so maybe the OEM one is bad..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Okay, this time I installed the WIMA capacitor that have worked for me in the past. I located top dead center and made a mark. I hooked up my timing light and spun it over with my drill. I was expecting the spark to be retarded but to my surprise the spark occurred at about an inch before tdc as measured on the outside of the flywheel. I don't know how many degrees that is but guessing around 20. I'm not sure what to look at next, can't retard the timing much because I already have the points set on minimum .014. It will run when primed but it is really sluggish. Should I try for more advance?
I measured the flywheel and did the math...looks like it's a little more than 20 degrees but less than 30. The saw didn't kick back like others do when the timing is too far advanced, it still seems like the timing is back too far..is that possible?