Stihl 041

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This might sound silly but try a different coil just for grins and giggles, that and psi check the saw and carb just to be sure they are both sound... I had 2 saws and a golf cart that would fire and run a second or two then die. Had nice Blue spark and everything... Put new coils on them because I had nothing else to try and they fired right up and ran!
 
This might sound silly but try a different coil just for grins and giggles, that and psi check the saw and carb just to be sure they are both sound... I had 2 saws and a golf cart that would fire and run a second or two then die. Had nice Blue spark and everything... Put new coils on them because I had nothing else to try and they fired right up and ran!
This seems to have a nice hot spark and I don't have a coil to try in it. If it needs a coil I'll probably just part it out...I seriously think it still needs a condenser..
 
I took the thing all apart and widened the points gap to a loose .016 and it did start kicking back when I pulled the rope...but still no start. I'm toying around now that maybe the saw is in good enough tune to run but maybe something internally is wrong. I think I'll take it down more and do a vac/pressure test on it and then maybe look at the piston for some stuck rings or something. It should have started by now given the hot spark, 150 compression and fresh fuel mix in the cylinder. This last time I kept the fuel line unfastened to eliminate flooding, just primed it and got some very weak pops.
 
Just for fun I took a few things off the saw and tried to do a pressure/vac test on the engine. With my little homemade outfit I couldn't get it to pump up any so I'm either doing something wrong or it's got a big hole in it somewhere. I blocked off the intake and exhaust and pumped air into the pulse hose. I'll check it out more carefully in the next day or two..
 
I have been following your thread because I have to admire your patience . I never had all that much luck when it came to point and condenser ignition systems. Doing a pressure/vac test is not easy on those old 041's. . That muffler arrangement on that saw is odd ball and a bear to get at let alone do a pressure /vac test.

I'll throw in my 2cents on what might be wrong. My guess is your out of time from what you have been describing. I'll throw this in also ,when testing a condenser or any part of those ignition systems I have had better luck using the old fashion meters with the needle and scale verses the digital read out. I have been working on some 020's with points and condenser. I could get the condenser to charge and discharge with the old analog meter but couldn't get anything with the digital one. The digital just registered OL which means basically zero and it wouldn't charge the condenser. I finally got spark out of the old saw after doing all the tests on the ignition system because I also thought I had a bad condenser. It turned out the points just needed to be cleaned even though the meters showed they were working .

Keep at it you will eventually get it fixed.
 
I think I have the ignition system where it will work, not positive though. The reason I'm using a digital meter right now is because my analog meter gave out a few months back and haven't replaced it yet. The pressure test is what's bothering me, usually you can get something on the gauge if you pump on the thing enough. I checked the tester first and it worked. I'm working on some new block off plates to put on the intake and exhaust ports. I noticed under the intake block there was no gasket and very little sealant so I'm sure that's one leak. I got this saw not long ago and it has been tinkered with by lots of people because I can see the sealer on it and the different fuel lines it had. I know the guy that had it last had given up on it so figured if I can't fix it maybe I can learn some...
I did notice when I had the intake off that the piston was a scarred up a bit more than I thought so since I have it down this far I might just take the piston out and take a good look at it and the cylinder.
 
got 041 stuff. .016 might not be enough. file points. bad condenser will spark @ points, makin it weak @ plug, esp under comp.
I'm gonna put off working on ignition until my new condenser gets here. In the meantime I've made a set of blockoff plates for intake and exhaust, probably do a pressure/vacuum test next. Piston doesn't have stuck rings but has a little scuffing on it but has about 150 compression, guess that's enough. I probably will take piston out and check it closer, especially if it passes pressure test..I'll let you know how the pressure test goes. Am I right about the compression or is 150 a little low?
 
.18 to .23
If you mean .018 to .023 maybe. .18 is way too wide for points. What I need next is the center out of an old flywheel to use to set the points more accurately. I imagine one from a 031 would probably work also. One other possibility is that this saw may have the wrong flywheel on it. You never know when you get a non-running saw what's been done to it..
I have the Bosch part number off the flywheel 0 204 003 033 but haven't been able to match it to the Stihl part number on the IPL..
 
If you mean .018 to .023 maybe. .18 is way too wide for points. What I need next is the center out of an old flywheel to use to set the points more accurately. I imagine one from a 031 would probably work also. One other possibility is that this saw may have the wrong flywheel on it. You never know when you get a non-running saw what's been done to it..
I have the Bosch part number off the flywheel 0 204 003 033 but haven't been able to match it to the Stihl part number on the IPL..
Well, I converted three SEM and Bosch electronic ignitions to points on 041s this winter and they all worked flawlessly. I also set my points gap at .18 on all three, I believe that is what the shop manual calls for. Don't take my word, but I work on a lot of 041s and 051s. I wouldn't waste time with making block off plates, when rubber slid under the exhaust and intake will suffice. You can use a sphygmomonometer to pressure test the case. They commonly leak at the oil pump, oil adjustment knob as well as the worm, pto seal and mag seal along withthe entire intake.
 
Well, I converted three SEM and Bosch electronic ignitions to points on 041s this winter and they all worked flawlessly. I also set my points gap at .18 on all three, I believe that is what the shop manual calls for. Don't take my word, but I work on a lot of 041s and 051s. I wouldn't waste time with making block off plates, when rubber slid under the exhaust and intake will suffice. You can use a sphygmomonometer to pressure test the case. They commonly leak at the oil pump, oil adjustment knob as well as the worm, pto seal and mag seal along withthe entire intake.
That's kinda what I was hoping someone would mention, the probable air leak spots. I think wherever it is it is a big leak. I'll test it this week. The blockoff plates took about 10 minutes to build, no problem. They're kinda nice to put on the engine while I'm cleaning it. Not sure what I'm gonna do if the leak is at the pump, maybe new O rings? I'm pretty sure the intake was leaking, at least a little.
 
Today I found a huge air leak but it wasn't easy. I tried all the easy spots like the oiler and oiler knob, okay. Then I took the ignition off and sprayed soapy water on the main seal and it was okay so I took the clutch and the oiler washer off and didn't see anything wrong at first then I realized the seal on that side was gone, the metal part was there but the rubber part was completely gone. While I was in there I also noticed the clutch was shot and the pin that drives the oil pump was missing. I looked all around that part of the saw and on the floor and never saw it. So it looks like I'll be ordering some more parts...
 
I'm not crazy about it either but it was there..I just work on it a little at a time until I eventually get it done, I hope...Some people don't like the 029-290 saws either but they're becoming my favorite saws to work on...Probably my least favorite are the Echo saws...I might like Echo better if I worked on more of them.
 
:clap::clap: Sounds like you found the problem. I am not a big fan of 041 as far working on them but my first new Stihl was 041 Super and I really liked it and wish I still had it but like a dummy I left the side door open on my tool truck with the service body and drove off with the saw on the door. . I didn't realize till I got to town that the door was open and the saw slide off the door and into the ditch. I back tracked to find it and it was gone.:dumb:

Good luck with some of those parts if your going through Stihl. Some of those parts for the clutch are no longer available. Since the door incident I have had 3 041' s 2 of them needed parts and the one that ran good was just the plain Jane 041 and just wasn't the same as my Super so I just sold all 3 of them.

Keep us updated sounds like the plot is thickening.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top