Stihl 044 10mm Rebuild Options

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Just an update. New Crank arrived a couple days ago and immediately went into the freezer. I heated the 10mm case up and pressed the bearings in. Got the crank in and drew everything together nice and snug. Didn't even realize I had a problem until I wen to put the clutch side oil seal in. It did NOT want to drop in for some reason. After a little investigation, I realized I installed the bearing in backwards :angry:
After I pulled everything back apart and reassembled correctly, the crank feels really stiff, not moving freely like it should. I think I might have damaged the bearing cage when I tried to install the seal on the wrong side...
Anyway, 2nd set of bearings, and 3rd set of seals ordered. This is slowly turning into the most expensive 044 ever built.
 
You're paying for your education, lol :)

Are you sure you didn't just need to "center" the crank? This involves striking the ends of the crank with a brass hammer, in order to relieve the side load put on the bearings when pressing the case halves together.

How does the bearing feel upon disassembly?
Good call Brad exactly what I was thinking. Was in that same situation on my first 044 rebuild! All it took was a couple taps and spinning free!
 
You're paying for your education, lol :)

Are you sure you didn't just need to "center" the crank? This involves striking the ends of the crank with a brass hammer, in order to relieve the side load put on the bearings when pressing the case halves together.

How does the bearing feel upon disassembly?

Definitely right about the education, I'm learning a ton.
After disassembly the flywheel side bearing feels normal, the clutch side has an ever so slight sound and off feel to it though. I couldn't even feel it while it was still in the case, but when it was out and just on my finger, I can tell something is off. I'd rather start fresh if there is any chance I damaged that plastic cage.
 
Definitely right about the education, I'm learning a ton.
After disassembly the flywheel side bearing feels normal, the clutch side has an ever so slight sound and off feel to it though. I couldn't even feel it while it was still in the case, but when it was out and just on my finger, I can tell something is off. I'd rather start fresh if there is any chance I damaged that plastic cage.
Clean that bearing with solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Unless you can see physical damage, I doubt it's hurt.
 
Just an update. New Crank arrived a couple days ago and immediately went into the freezer. I heated the 10mm case up and pressed the bearings in. Got the crank in and drew everything together nice and snug. Didn't even realize I had a problem until I wen to put the clutch side oil seal in. It did NOT want to drop in for some reason. After a little investigation, I realized I installed the bearing in backwards :angry:
After I pulled everything back apart and reassembled correctly, the crank feels really stiff, not moving freely like it should. I think I might have damaged the bearing cage when I tried to install the seal on the wrong side...
Anyway, 2nd set of bearings, and 3rd set of seals ordered. This is slowly turning into the most expensive 044 ever built.

I suppose anything is possible, but I don't see how installing an oil seal in case would damage a new crank bearing. even if backwards. crank bearings are significantly stronger than an oil seal...

thread is getting interesting...

sorry to hear of your issues, good for u taking it on yourself... I hate it when what should be don't be...especially with mechanical things... ;)
 
I suppose anything is possible, but I don't see how installing an oil seal in case would damage a new crank bearing. even if backwards. crank bearings are significantly stronger than an oil seal
Because the bearing was backwards the seal didn't really have anywhere to go, it just bottomed out. One side of it road to the outside of the cage, the other side road to the inside kind of cutting the cage a bit (probably would hav been completely fine except I tried to force it. Ik, very stupid beginners mistake). I'll try to get a picture of the bearing, not much damage at all, but it's definitely not as smooth as the Undamaged side. A new set of oem bearings is $31, so I'm just going to get more practice with bearings (gotta justify it somehow)...
 
Well I don't think this was the complete issue, but glad I disassembled it again anyway. I think I didn't have the crank side bearing quite seated far enough. That, and I definitely damaged the clutch side. Now just waiting on a new set.
 
Turns out, this saw is actually cursed

well, if not the saw, the crank looks suspicious. but... actually, that crank can be repaired. I had a mc 6 once on mini-bike. the crank tip broke off. we had it heli-arced back on. held just fine. set between centers for the weld, was almost true to the bone. takes a precision weld, though... :)
 
well, if not the saw, the crank looks suspicious. but... actually, that crank can be repaired. I had a mc 6 once on mini-bike. the crank tip broke off. we had it heli-arced back on. held just fine. set between centers for the weld, was almost true to the bone. takes a precision weld, though... :)
I've read a few things like this. A perfect used crank though is only $35, so I just ordered another. Hopefully I don't damage the new bearings when I split the case for the third time
 
I've read a few things like this. A perfect used crank though is only $35, so I just ordered another. Hopefully I don't damage the new bearings when I split the case for the third time

sure would like to see a step by step on the teardown and reassembly if you had the time.... just sayin'...

good luck with your project...
 
The ++++++ signs and letter number combinations on the base and tops of jugs are related to which mold series and number were used for that particular cylinder. Molds are made from a master mold and are replaced frequently so the parts they make remain in proper specifications. The codes also help designate design and manufacturer changes in a product line, they are there for the benefit of the Stihl engineers in case of a product failure.
The A, B, C, or AB stamped on the top center are precise bore measurements to allow the assemblers to match the proper size of piston quickly when building and testing the saws.
There were 4 main manufacturers of cylinders for the pro level saws from Stihl. Some custom builders attribute legendary status to certain models of specific cylinders, but none are inferior.
If you are going to have a ported saw built then all the numbers and such are meaningless because a good builder will change whatever is necessary to build a badass work or race saw as requested by the owner.
Mahle cylinders are normally marked as such either on the top or along the side of the base which cant be seen with the cylinder installed on the crankcase.
Koblen Schmidt cylinders are normally marked with a capital K and S stamped on top of each other, again on the top or side of the base.
Gillardoni cylinders seem much less common on the pro stihls but make nice power on the few I have seen, all have been marked on the base.
Stihl branded cylinders are normally marked only on the base or will have the "S" logo lightly imprinted on the top.
Recently the 1122 series cylinders for the MS660 have had very faint and "mushy" KS logos imprinted and are easily misidentified as simply Stihl cylinders, the telltale mark is much stronger in the piston itself on these.
A handful of these recent KS jugs have excellent numbers for both stock and ported saws.
Jason used one on my hybrid and said the numbers were fantastic ( I certainly agree with the results).

To the OP, if you are going to rebuild as a 10mm saw you can use any 12mm jug you want to as long as it is a standard bore size.
I recommend the OEM 10mm piston slightly over the 10mm Meteor piston. I have used and sold both with great results but at least one builder I respect has put forward the theory that the slightly larger space between the piston pin bosses in the Meteor 10mm piston may, over time, lead to early failure. Meteor used the same spacing as they use on their excellent 12mm pin piston and it is slightly wider than the 10mm OEM spacing.
Likely a non-issue, but that little voice in the back of my head makes me wonder.

You CANNOT use a 12mm piston in a 10mm cylinder without some careful modification. Some guys use this combination on ported GTG saws, but on a stock saw it will ruin your piston and cylinder quickly as the ring will hang in a port.
You Cannot build a big bore saw on a 10mm chassis for this reason as there is nobody who makes a 10mm piston in anything but standard bore.
Dave
this is good read that should not get forgotten.
 
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