Stihl 066 Cylinder - Runner or Pencil Holder?

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Matt B

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Hi All. Picked up this 066 Red Light a couple of weeks back.
Whilst the comp was ok, it wasn't quite what I was after. So this weekend it was torn down.
The saw is in good cond overall but it looks like something may have gone through the top end and was spat out the exhaust. All aspects of the bottom end appear to be fine.

There was also some aluminium transfer on the cylinder wall that was removed using the emery cloth method etc suggested by Randy/Tree Monkey.

The grooves and scratches in the plating are clear enough, however my question relates to the plating that has come off around the exhaust port. The plating was already damaged in the area. Unfortunately during the sanding process before I new it I'd taken off a bit more than intended...

So I seek the opinion of those wiser and more experienced that my self. What are the chances this now thinned plating at the edge of the sanded area will detach and damage the engine?

I acknowledge that I may be over thinking this but would value any feedback before this cylinder becomes a pencil holder.
Cheers, Matt.


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That looks like it will tear up fairly quickly but I have run similar on my own saws with a not new piston and got about a months running from it, that would be around 150 hours of run time before the piston and rings loaded up. On my own saws I didn`t mind pulling them apart and reinstalling another P&C in them, just a minor inconvenience to me.
 
I think You're fine.
Personaly,
I would clean up the vertcal lines with a dremel 502 or 503 paddle wheel. Lowes has them. The chip of chrome needs feathered and blended so it doesn't snag a new ring. I'd also install it with motoseal at the base if it were me.
Looks like a good "red light" saw.
 
That looks like it will tear up fairly quickly but I have run similar on my own saws with a not new piston and got about a months running from it, that would be around 150 hours of run time before the piston and rings loaded up. On my own saws I didn`t mind pulling them apart and reinstalling another P&C in them, just a minor inconvenience to me.
What do you mean "before the rings loaded up"? :cool:
-Loaded out the exhaust port like a blunderbuss? Lol
 
Bevel off the exhaust port with a diamond file or diamond burr dremel but on a damn slow speed then a bit of 400 grit. The bit under the exhaust port shouldn't be an issue as it won't effect the compression and when the piston is below the exhaust port, it has expelled the exhaust gasses and loaded up the combustion chamber with mix.

The rough part above the exhaust port is OK with a rebevel, I would avoid raising the port roof to get rid of the damage as it will adversely affect the timing.

Whats the worst that can happen - not too much TBH!
 
Thanks for the feed back gents.

Visited the my local Stihl shop yesterday and they wanted an outrageous amount for a new OEM cylinder that was way above my pay grade.

If it was going be a shelf queen that gets dragged out every now and then I'd probably just clean up the jug as suggested above and reinstall.

However I'm keen to rebuild this saw correctly as it will see regular use. So I'm now in the market for a good used OEM cylinder. Happy to pay a fair and reasonable price along with postage to Perth, Australia.

I'll put a wanted notice in the Trading Post.

Again, thanks for the advice.

Cheers, Matt.
 
The local Stihl dealer quoted $800 AU for a new top end. So far out of my budget it hurts.

In this situation the piston is in surprisingly good condition and shows fairly low hours judging by the machining on the surface and thickness of the skirt. The marks don't catch a fingernail. I was hoping to find a good, used 066 non-decomp A or B Stihl cylinder. I have already received a new set of Caber rings.

As always I appreciate your input to this forum Brad along with your generous offer. PM sent.
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