Stihl Aftermarket Parts Review

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Khntr85 said:
Hey man I will be interested in how your kit turns out.... I put a whole complete new engine in a ms180 and it's got about 3 tanks threw it.... I put it in shagbark hickory yesterday and I didn't take it easy on her at all...the damn thing impresses me more every time I start it....

Let me ask you this, did you consider just putting a complete engine assembly in or was it to pricey.... Only reason I ask is because when my ol ms290 dies I will be doing the same thing.... Thanks a lot Kyle
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Much cheaper to rebuild your engine with a p/c kit and new seals than to buy a new engine. Those 390 kits have really come down in price in the last few months..
 
a. palmer jr. said:
Much cheaper to rebuild your engine with a p/c kit and new seals than to buy a new engine. Those 390 kits have really come down in price in the last few months..
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Hey thanks a lot..... Go figure you would figure they would make it cheaper to buy whole engine, and clamshell isn't the most fun to work on lol.... Thanks a lot for the info... Wonder what the price difference is???
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I rebuilt a 290 using a 390 kit but I also built a 290 using a 290 p/c and they both impress me but I think I was most impressed by the 250 I built from parts. I used a 3/8 Lo Profile bar and chain on it and it zips through the wood. It probably wouldn't be as impressive with a big bar and chain though..
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Oh and did you notice a big difference when you put the 390 kit in the 290.... Thanks a lot kyle
 
Oh and I just rebuilt a ms180 and I put a Chinese whole engine assembly in it..... The damn thing has mad me surprised every time I start it.... I put it into some shag bark hickory yesterday, and she didn't have one problem..... I am anxious to see how kind this $40 motor will last!!!!!
 
Khntr85 said:
Hey thanks a lot..... Go figure you would figure they would make it cheaper to buy whole engine, and clamshell isn't the most fun to work on lol.... Thanks a lot for the info... Wonder what the price difference is???
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On a Stihl 290 you don't need to buy all the new parts that are in the complete engine such as crankshaft, crankcase bottom, clutch, and the other stuff they put in the complete engine, all you need are a piston and cylinder and new crank seals, assuming everything else is okay. On the previous ones I've rebuilt I had perfectly good crankshafts, bearings, and everything else, just a scored cylinder. I changed the p/c and seals, of course cleaning everything else up, and checking the intake and pulse hoses, think I did put a new pulse hose on them. On one of them I put a new intake on also because it looked old and brittle. No need to buy what you already have..
 
Khntr85 said:
Oh and did you notice a big difference when you put the 390 kit in the 290.... Thanks a lot kyle
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Not especially but I haven't really ran either enough to get used to them. They both have 18" bars on them so they both zip through the kind of wood we have here but I imagine I could easily put a longer bar on the 390. I've only used them one or two days and not very long at a time. Since I'm far from a full time wood cutter I will probably keep one of these for what little wood I cut anymore and probably sell the pro saws but I'm gonna do some more testing to be sure..
 
Anyone here bought a chink bolt in saw engine or P/C and run them at 50:1? Can't see them lasting long at all....any chinese equipment like saws in NZ they advise 25:1 only...would love to see one being used with 40 or 50:1 and see how long it keeps good compression and lasts.
 
altair said:
Anyone here bought a chink bolt in saw engine or P/C and run them at 50:1? Can't see them lasting long at all....any chinese equipment like saws in NZ they advise 25:1 only...would love to see one being used with 40 or 50:1 and see how long it keeps good compression and lasts.
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I don't run anything 50:1 unless I'm trying to tear it up. I go around 35 to 40 to one on everything and I've not had a problem. Starting to have a little problem with compression on my Lawn Boy mower that I've used every week, bought it new in 1982..
On another post on AS they have a Stihl ad saying they are expanding their Chinese factory to about double the size that it was. Sounds like AM and OEM are gonna be very similar in the future. Stihl could just buy their parts from Huztl and avoid all the building costs...
 
altair said:
Anyone here bought a chink bolt in saw engine or P/C and run them at 50:1? Can't see them lasting long at all....any chinese equipment like saws in NZ they advise 25:1 only...would love to see one being used with 40 or 50:1 and see how long it keeps good compression and lasts.
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Now I know people will freak out, but I run stihl grey bottle at 45:1 with 93 gas and I have never had any problems.....my ms250 I bought new about 4 years ago was ran on 50:1 gray bottle until this year..... I really only switched to 45:1 this year because I got a new stihl trimmer and other new saw, and figured it wouldn't hurt.... I have taken my ms250 apart and the piston looks new still, and no carbon build up on top of piston...I also have this new Chinese engine in a ms180, and since i like limbing with it I am keeping it.... It has had 4 tanks threw it so far and the last tank I was limbing shagbark hickory, and bucking pieces up to about 8".....

So anyway as you said I am anxious to see how long this engine last, as it works great now.... As far as the 45:1 mix hurting the engine I don't know..... I have read MANY of the great oil debate threads.....I mean a saw can definitely have to much oil, and get carbon deposits, which in turn can break loose and cause problems....

I should add that my saws are all stock except for some muffler mods....
 
a. palmer jr. said:
Not especially but I haven't really ran either enough to get used to them. They both have 18" bars on them so they both zip through the kind of wood we have here but I imagine I could easily put a longer bar on the 390. I've only used them one or two days and not very long at a time. Since I'm far from a full time wood cutter I will probably keep one of these for what little wood I cut anymore and probably sell the pro saws but I'm gonna do some more testing to be sure..
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Ya I bet with a 20" bar you would surely tell a difference in the 390.....I have a ms362, and now I don't use my ms290 much at..... What pro saw do you have....
 
Khntr85 said:
Ya I bet with a 20" bar you would surely tell a difference in the 390.....I have a ms362, and now I don't use my ms290 much at..... What pro saw do you have....
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I have a MS361, 362XP Husky, MS280, 346XPand 353, Dolmar 5100S a couple of top handles. The rest are homeowners and older saws.
Actually, the latest 390 I've built has a 20" bar on it but I haven't gotten to use it yet.
 
Khntr85 said:
Hey man I will be interested in how your kit turns out.... I put a whole complete new engine in a ms180 and it's got about 3 tanks threw it.... I put it in shagbark hickory yesterday and I didn't take it easy on her at all...the damn thing impresses me more every time I start it....

Let me ask you this, did you consider just putting a complete engine assembly in or was it to pricey.... Only reason I ask is because when my ol ms290 dies I will be doing the same thing.... Thanks a lot Kyle
Click to expand...

I considered doing a fully assembled kit, but the difference in price is what killed it for me. I was/am tight on funds, I went the cheaper route and spread out the purchasing of my parts. I don't mind doing the work to save me some money and I am able to learn about what I have in equipment. Doing everything I have done, I only have $100 total in everything I put into the saw. I currently have ran a tank of fuel in the saw and it has been running beautifully through that single tank. I am noticing that the compression is building as it is breaking in. I did a little noodling with it, right after I got it tuned and I could notice the difference in power. I am also not having any issues with it idling anymore. If I can come up with another 029/MS290 that the p&c are fried in, for cheap, I will probably clean up my old ones as they really weren't all that bad and build another saw.
 
ssm1699 said:
I considered doing a fully assembled kit, but the difference in price is what killed it for me. I was/am tight on funds, I went the cheaper route and spread out the purchasing of my parts. I don't mind doing the work to save me some money and I am able to learn about what I have in equipment. Doing everything I have done, I only have $100 total in everything I put into the saw. I currently have ran a tank of fuel in the saw and it has been running beautifully through that single tank. I am noticing that the compression is building as it is breaking in. I did a little noodling with it, right after I got it tuned and I could notice the difference in power. I am also not having any issues with it idling anymore. If I can come up with another 029/MS290 that the p&c are fried in, for cheap, I will probably clean up my old ones as they really weren't all that bad and build another saw.
Click to expand...

Ya once she breaks in she have better compression.... Ya the whole engine was only $45 for the ms180 I just did.... I think the last time I looked for around $70 you can get a 390 engine... Maybe if you do another one you could look around on eBay and save even more money.... If you don't mind me asking what kind of gas mix and what ratio do you use on your saws....

I am like you though, I don't care if it's a pro saw or a clamshell..... For the right price I will buy either one to rebuild, I also like tearing into them and bringing them back to life!!!!!

It will be interesting to see how long your and my rebuilds last.... Did you use Chinese parts like I did???
 
Khntr85 said:
Ya once she breaks in she have better compression.... Ya the whole engine was only $45 for the ms180 I just did.... I think the last time I looked for around $70 you can get a 390 kit.... Maybe if you do another one you could look around on eBay and save even more money.... If you don't mind me asking what kind of mix and what ratio do you use on your saws....

I am like you though, I don't care if it's a pro saw or a clamshell..... For the right price I will buy either one to rebuild, I also like tearing into them and bringing them back to life!!!!!

It will be interesting to see how long your and my rebuilds last.... Did you use Chinese parts like I did???
Click to expand...

I am currently running 40:1 with 91 octane fuel. The oil I am using it the standard Stihl 2 stroke oil, in the orange bottles. I tend to run my mixes a little heavier on oil because I look at oil as being cheap insurance for my equipment. I use that thought especially since all of my mowers are 2 stroke Lawn Boys and you can't buy a new 2 stroke Lawn Boy anymore. I need the 2 stroke mower because of the steep terraces that I have. I also add Sta-Bil and Seafoam to my fuel cans. I have always noticed a difference in my used equipment when I started adding Seafoam. The P&C that I am running is a Farmertec kit. I spent $75 on the kit, because it was the cheapest kit I could find that had all the parts, but the crank bearings, that actually stated that it was Nikasil lined. There were a couple of cheaper kits, but none of them specifically stated that they were Nikasil lined. I even messaged several of the sellers of the cheaper kits, asking if they were Nikasil lined and never heard from any of them. The kit that I bought, the seller was great to communicate with. The kit was from ebay. I think it has dropped in price since I bought it. The cheapest full engine kit on ebay that I could find, that also stated that it was Nikasil lined, I think was about $110. But like I said before, I also like knowing how to completely tear into my equipment and work on them. I also have an aftermarket carb for my 029 Super farmboss, of which now has the 039/390 top end on it. I bought it so that I could have a second carb for it. I have also done the MM to it. My original main bearings were fine, but they had the plastic bearing cages and I know they are known for failing. It cost me $12 with shipping, for 2 brand new SKF 6203/C3 bearings, so that I knew what I had. The bearings were easy to replace anyways and while I was in, why not do them.
 
ssm1699 said:
I am currently running 40:1 with 91 octane fuel. The oil I am using it the standard Stihl 2 stroke oil, in the orange bottles. I tend to run my mixes a little heavier on oil because I look at oil as being cheap insurance for my equipment. I use that thought especially since all of my mowers are 2 stroke Lawn Boys and you can't buy a new 2 stroke Lawn Boy anymore. I need the 2 stroke mower because of the steep terraces that I have. I also add Sta-Bil and Seafoam to my fuel cans. I have always noticed a difference in my used equipment when I started adding Seafoam. The P&C that I am running is a Farmertec kit. I spent $75 on the kit, because it was the cheapest kit I could find that had all the parts, but the crank bearings, that actually stated that it was Nikasil lined. There were a couple of cheaper kits, but none of them specifically stated that they were Nikasil lined. I even messaged several of the sellers of the cheaper kits, asking if they were Nikasil lined and never heard from any of them. The kit that I bought, the seller was great to communicate with. The kit was from ebay. I think it has dropped in price since I bought it. The cheapest full engine kit on ebay that I could find, that also stated that it was Nikasil lined, I think was about $110. But like I said before, I also like knowing how to completely tear into my equipment and work on them. I also have an aftermarket carb for my 029 Super farmboss, of which now has the 039/390 top end on it. I bought it so that I could have a second carb for it. I have also done the MM to it. My original main bearings were fine, but they had the plastic bearing cages and I know they are known for failing. It cost me $12 with shipping, for 2 brand new SKF 6203/C3 bearings, so that I knew what I had. The bearings were easy to replace anyways and while I was in, why not do them.
Click to expand...

Ya hopefully we both have good luck with these farmer tec parts.... I have heard people have good luck with them so we will see....
 
I run Lawn Boys also but I don't use the same fuel in them that I do in my saws because the mowers use so much more. I use non-ethanol fuel in the saws and ethanol fuel in the Lawn Boy mowers and I used to use Stihl oil but have switched to Echo 2 stroke oil because that's what my local dealer has, really don't notice any difference. I got by a little cheaper on my kit, I bought the p/c separately from the seals and spent around $35 or so to change it over to a 390.
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I run Lawn Boys also but I don't use the same fuel in them that I do in my saws because the mowers use so much more. I use non-ethanol fuel in the saws and ethanol fuel in the Lawn Boy mowers and I used to use Stihl oil but have switched to Echo 2 stroke oil because that's what my local dealer has, really don't notice any difference. I got by a little cheaper on my kit, I bought the p/c separately from the seals and spent around $35 or so to change it over to a 390.
Click to expand...

I run 32:1 or heavier through my Lawn Boys. The thinner mix is for my chainsaws and weed eater only. I think that gas that I mixed for the Lawn Boys is sitting about 26:1 right now. I won't run any lighter than 32:1 in them though. I don't run ethanol in any of my small engines or my outboard. I use the stihl oil because the other small engine shop is a crappy place to deal with and I don't want to deal with them. I also don't really want to run walmart 2stroke oil in my gear. Did your jug have a decomp port? Mine did and the kit included the plug to plug it off since I don't have and didn't want a decomp on my saw.

Khntr85 said:
Ya hopefully we both have good luck with these farmer tec parts.... I have heard people have good luck with them so we will see....
Click to expand...

From what I have read, everyone that has posted anything on the Farmer Tec p&cs have had good luck. I am really looking forward to seeing how it does down the road, as well. The only issue I had with my kit was that the ground wire screw hole on the jug was bigger than the original. Luckily a 10-32x1/2 screw fit perfectly for securing the ground wire to the jug. The seller I got my kit from, said that he has this exact kit in customers saws, that have been in service for 7 years now and no problems with them. Don't know if that is commercial use or home owner use. My guess would be home owner.
 
 

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