Stihl Chainsaw oiler not working

[phbrush]

017 Oiler problems

FWIW I just solved an oiling problem with my 017 by disconnecting the hose from the oil tank to the oil pump under the saw (you must remove the handle to see). I had a small amount of oil coming out of the hole behind the bar (that's why you should remove the bar) but it was mixed with lots of bubbles. After cleaning the connection with a mild spray cleaner (perchlorethene) and reseating the hose into the plastic recess where the oil pump is, I got a nice steady 'drool' out of the hole which lines up nicely with a small hole in the bar. I'm amazed this system works as well as it does, considering all of the filth that accumulates in this area.

 

[demographic]

I know this is an old thread but I've just done a search and found it as my 017 didn't seem to be oiling.

Anyway after emptying the oil tank out, flushing it with petrol then putting some oil back in I've just fired it up without the bar and chain and its oiling fine again, must have been a oil clogged filter.

Cheers folks.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

For future reference for you guys, try this before tearing everything apart. Take the bar off and get an air hose. Point the hose so that it will spin the sprocket in the OPPISITE direction of normal use. Spin it for several seconds and fire it up to see if it's working again. Sometimes it takes several tries but I've found it works most of the time.

Dealers use this "fix" and they smile as you pay the labor bill.

 

[demographic]

For future reference for you guys, try this before tearing everything apart. Take the bar off and get an air hose. Point the hose so that it will spin the sprocket in the OPPISITE direction of normal use. Spin it for several seconds and fire it up to see if it's working again. Sometimes it takes several tries but I've found it works most of the time.

Dealers use this "fix" and they smile as you pay the labor bill.

Nice one, cheers.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Nice one, cheers.

In all my years of working on saws I've only seen one pump go bad. Over 90% of the time it's dirt/oil parafin buildup. Plugged filter/bar or hose off makes most of the other 10%. Biggest tip I can give people is carry a paint brush in your saw supplys (gas/oil and such) and wipe plug off before filling EVERY time.

Had one guy bring me a saw who didn't know he was supposed to put oil in it and he bought it NEW! Probably hadn't run a lot of fuel through it as he was a homeowner but after filling the tank it began pumping after been running dry all that time.

If you do have to pull the sprocket do NOT use an impact on the flywheel nut. You're setting yourself up for BIG repair bill and not worth the risk. Get some pliable nylon rope as close to the plug hole size as possible. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and feed as much rope into the jug as possible. Try to spiral feed it in so it completely fills the cylinder. Release the nut with normal hand tools as rope will bind the cylinder with even pressure. Or you can buy a +$100.00 holder specific to just a couple models.

 

[demographic]

In all my years of working on saws I've only seen one pump go bad. Over 90% of the time it's dirt/oil parafin buildup. Plugged filter/bar or hose off makes most of the other 10%. Biggest tip I can give people is carry a paint brush in your saw supplys (gas/oil and such) and wipe plug off before filling EVERY time.

Had one guy bring me a saw who didn't know he was supposed to put oil in it and he bought it NEW! Probably hadn't run a lot of fuel through it as he was a homeowner but after filling the tank it began pumping after been running dry all that time.

If you do have to pull the sprocket do NOT use an impact on the flywheel nut. You're setting yourself up for BIG repair bill and not worth the risk. Get some pliable nylon rope as close to the plug hole size as possible. Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke and feed as much rope into the jug as possible. Try to spiral feed it in so it completely fills the cylinder. Release the nut with normal hand tools as rope will bind the cylinder with even pressure. Or you can buy a +$100.00 holder specific to just a couple models.

I've read the rope trick in relation to motorcycles but its all good information, I like the paintbrush tip.

Cheers.

 

[mikerecike]

017 oiler - i tried this....

For future reference for you guys, try this before tearing everything apart. Take the bar off and get an air hose. Point the hose so that it will spin the sprocket in the OPPISITE direction of normal use. Spin it for several seconds and fire it up to see if it's working again. Sometimes it takes several tries but I've found it works most of the time.

Dealers use this "fix" and they smile as you pay the labor bill.

and it made a big improvement - anybody know why it works? I don't understand. Still have lots of bubbles too which I hope relates to the seating of the rubber oil line in the pump recess - will see tonight.

thank you

 

[bezza1]

on a different note, can a longer bar and chain be added to this model eg 14" as opposed to 12"?

yeah mate it will pull a 14" bar ok
i have found that the duckbill oil breather does not work properly
you can snip the end off it that has always worked for me

 

[TheManOfStihl]

Stihl MS170 wont oil

I also have an MS170 Stihl that I recently acquired that will not oil. I ran it without bar and chain, and after 20-30 seconds I might see a little oil start to come out of the oiler port, followed by a bubble, then nothing for awhile. I replaced the oil pump with a known good one, no change. Cleaned the oil tank, pickup is clean but recleaned it. Line is clear of obstructions and doesn't seem damaged. Worm gear is fine and engages the oil pump. I've run out of ideas on this. I will try running the sprocket backwards with air, as stated a few posts ago, see if that helps. Otherwise I'm lost.

Does running the oil pump backwards make it pump in reverse, like to clear out the line perhaps?

Also someone mentioned where the hose plugs in under the pump being a problem area. Almost wondering if mine is sucking air at that point. I've had it on and off a few times with no luck. Hate to put sealer around it knowing I'll have to replace it at some point. Anyone have any ideas on this? Tired of using my big saws for limbing! http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/msp_unsure.gif