STIHL MS 290 Farm Boss (Extremely Hard to Start Cold)

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Well, we have two answers. Too much fuel (flooding) and not getting fuel.

Well, we have two answers. Too much fuel (flooding) and not getting fuel.

OP, have you tried to put a bit of fuel mix in the carb before starting it? If it pops right off for you, then you know that it's not enough fuel.

Is the choke closing all of the way? (pull the air filter and check)

Too much fuel. After trying to start it, pull the spark plug. It should be wet if it's flooded


What type of dealer did you buy it from? Full service? Hardware store?

On your question about "souping it up". You're asking about a muffler mod. Basically opening up the muffler to let it breath. You're about 4 years away from doing that if you want to keep your warranty.

OH, welcome to AS.

If you look back to probably every members posts, we all probably had a question similar to this one.
 
290 start

Before I did anything else I think I'd take it to the dealer when it was cold and have him watch me try to start it. If I were doing something wrong he'd see it right off...
 
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I would like to see more detail.

Like purchase date for 1.

Date it was hard to start...

If it was the day after purchase, did he contact the dealer.?

If it was a week after purchase, did he contact the dealer?

If it was 2 months, well........
 
When you took it to the dealer and he started it was it run before hand?
After you do finally get it started and your arm is ready to fall off does it shoot any smoke out the muffler?
The thing that gets me is the dealer started it with no problem:confused:
 
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bucknfeller,
thetexasrat,
Bad Cut,
woodyman

I see you made it back, how did it go?
 
There are currently 4 users browsing this thread. (4 members and 0 guests)
bucknfeller,
thetexasrat,
Bad Cut,
woodyman

I see you made it back, how did it go?
Everything came out alright:fart:
I almost forgot.At my last job this summer they bought a new MS290 for cutting 6x6 and 10x10's for flat bedders loads.They kept flooding it out because they couldn't hear it pop and kept the choke on and kept pulling.I showed them how to get it going after this was done.
 
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OK,

ran it again today and had the same problem starting it.

The saw was bought on Friday the 18th, ran it that evening and the next two days, then took it to the dealer (Ace Hardware) Monday the 21st after I tried to start it. I think that is why they where able to start it because I about primed it but gave up. Anyway I took it back to them the third day after purchase. Every day I take it out I have trouble getting it started. Even if I let it site for an hour or two it has some problems but not like when it sits up over night.

So far I have ran 1 gallon and 2 tanks full. The mix was made fresh on the on the 18th (the first day I used it. I used STIHL Two-Stoke oil bought at the same time as the saw (which is the reason they doubled the warranty). It came in six little bottles pre-measured for 50:1 ratio fuel mixture. I just mixed the second gallon today (27th), so fresh mix is not the problem. I am not sure what octane my dad put in the cans but I know what ever it was he also filled up his 2012 Dodge Ram Hemi 1/2 ton truck with. I also know if he can run the lower grade octane fuel in his truck he would with out a second though. He will normally get the cheapest what ever when he buy something if he can. He is a retired account, so he has a habit of watching [accounting for and trying to hold onto] every penny. I can testify that his big block Hemi never pings.

My dad has five wooded acres with many pine and water oak trees. So far I have cut down at least ten 20 inch diameter pines and six 36 inch diameter water oaks and close to ten more of various diameters from 6 inches to 24 inches in diameters. All these trees where lost either to the last two hurricanes and the droughts over the past three years.

I cut all but the last four 36 inch diameter water oak with a Poulan saw with a 16 inch bar. I wore out the clutch, three bars, couple of spark plugs, broke one chain and wore three or four others out, and also had to put the motor into a newer used housing (with a brand new piston ring for good measure) to keep it alive. I also put an 18 inch bar on it this go around. It still starts on the second pull most of the time, and up to 5 or 6 pulls if I do happen to fluid it. I just recently took down two more water oaks with it ( one 24 inch and one 16 inch diameter). But after taking down so many big trees with it, and also wanting still to clear one acre of youpon with it, I had been trying to get my dad to buy a STIHL so that I and the Poulan would not have to work so hard on these last four humongous water oaks. The Poulan will be used solely for cutting youpon just below the dirt so that the mower does not hand up on them, and so people do not trip on the stobs.

So he finally brook down and bought a STIHL on my recommendation. The Farm Boss MS 290 is all he would put out for ($399.99+tax). It is his saw but I am the one running it as he is 70 something years old.

I have one more tree at present to cut up, if I can. Base on the input here I will try riching the low needle as far as it can, with the limiter cap, to see if that helps tomorrow. Be nice if that is all it is. I will not pop the limiter cap as that is a warranty no no I am not willing to do unless I have a new one to replace it with first. If turning it out what little it does allow will not work I defiantly will be taking it back (later this week) to the dealer [again] for the warranty work. I will let them try to start it and pray it finally does them dirty this go around so that they can realize the need to fix it. If It starts for them, I will take it back day after day until it does them dirty or until I learn just how to start the cantankerous thing. Buy the way, just I am flooding the thing, what is the "POP"? Is this where you hear it fire? or is it something more subtle than that?

Normally I am pretty good at starting things but I have meet my match here and there with lemons. Yet a brand spanking new saw that they won't let me tear into takes the cake - yeah/naw:)bang:)? I might just have to try and become a STIHL Dealer authorized mechanic just to get around this problem. I could work on it when I want without voiding the warranty (including free parts).

No matter what if they do not do something to fix it I will go elsewhere and get new hoses, carburetor kit, plus a new limiter cap if possible and do the work myself, for my own piece of mind, and not tell them. I am pretty sure that I could fix it and they would never know that I did, so long as I use authentic STIHL parts, and also keep my mouth shut for at least four years. I would also have to just do it with out my dad knowing as well because he would not be willing to take the chance of possibly losing the warranty. I would have to buy the parts myself if I did. Yet, I really would rather them to fix it as a matter of principle of selling a new saw and under warranty to boot.

I will let y'all know the out come of trying to richen-up the low screw by tomorrow night.

Again much thanks for the input. And one day, with y'all's help, I will not only hear the "POP" but become a real STIHL dude.
 
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Now that you are done with our rant try something in the morning.
1- set the saw at full choke and pull it 2 times
2- click it up to fast idle one click up dont touch the throttle and pull it 5 more times
3- if the saw does not start then you have some tuning issues and we will help u
4- report back
5- dont blame the saw just yet ask Dano, once you figure it out you will be fine

Good luck
 
Now that you are done with our rant try something in the morning.
1- set the saw at full choke and pull it 2 times
2- click it up to fast idle one click up dont touch the throttle and pull it 5 more times
3- if the saw does not start then you have some tuning issues and we will help u
4- report back
5- dont blame the saw just yet ask Dano, once you figure it out you will be fine

Good luck

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I would try and start it as you recommend. My bad. But yes I will try just as you prescribed step by step. I will check for smoke as it starts also. And if it does not start after doing this then I will put some fuel down the carburetor to see if that helps. I did try to pull it on choke until I heard the "POP" today but it, as far as I understand, did not happen until way down the road so to speak.

And yes the choke closes completely, and I also pulled the plug and it was dry as a bone in my book.

After hearing that it could be the fuel line, the needle seat, or an impulse line problem gives me hope that I have not lost my touch starting things, or my mind for thinking it could be a lack of fuel, yet I will stay open minded just in case.

The only reason I have not really tried to fix it is because my dad does not want me to do anything to it whereby I might void the warranty. I told him about trying to set the mixture screws and he said that I should not do it and just wait for the Dealer authorized mechanic to do it, until I showed him in the owners manual where it said I could. But as I said before he is dead set against me popping the limiter cap.

Say does any one know where to get a free PDF Shop Manual for this saw?

As for the muffler mod perhaps I could get an old junk saw for parts and use it's muffler for the modification and then if I need to take it in for warranty work I could simply put the factory one back on(?). I still need to run a search on "Muffler mod" to find out the best way to do it.
 
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The 'pop' is a subtle thing...

My 361 is barely audible, so I never go past 3 pulls full choke or it WILL flood.

Sometimes it's the kickback on the starter cord that gives you an indication of 'pop' rather than a noise.

I wouldn't fiddle with the carb too much yet, if you want to do anything, just set them to factory spec as indicated on the air filter cover. Screw them in till they seat then back them off the number of turns indicated.

Put the saw on the ground
Chainbrake ON
Kneel down
Squeeze throttle and interlock, engage full choke, all in one motion
Left knee on ground against starter housing
Right heel on the 'flare' of the right handle/guard
(some people put their right toe through the handle...I don't)
Left hand on top handle
Pull gently to engage starter pawls
Pull briskly and firmly x 3
Click choke lever up ONE setting to high idle (some call it half choke)
Engage pawls...pull briskly, should start then run at high idle...quickly 'blip' the throttle to get the lever to click to 'run'...
Take chainbrake off
Let it warm up a bit and GRADUALLY increase throttle till it catches and runs, then let 'er rip.

Good luck, I have a 290 no problem...
 
Man oh man........if I had a new saw and it was hard to start, I'd be upset too. :popcorn:

But hang in there. I have a hunch you'll get it all sorted out.

Are you sure you have nothing to do with this? He sure could use your help:D
 
Stihl MS 290, 310, 390

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

But more than likely it's this Repair Manual you're looking for instead of the Owner's Manual.

Bingo on the second Manual (shop manuals are the same thing as repair manuals). The owners manual came with the saw [in print/hard copy]. Thanks for the help finding it.

Well it will not be long before I can try and start the saw.
 
Are you sure you have nothing to do with this? He sure could use your help:D

My 261 doesn't pop while on choke. It doesn't even make a noise that is anything similar to that.

Once I got past the expectation of hearing a pop, all was good.

I'm thinking that the spark plug in my saw is just one of the real quiet ones. :msp_biggrin:
 
I like the suggestion of having the dealer watch you starting it. If they can start it and you can't, there is something different going on.

I can have guys pulling and pulling on my saws. I walk over, and a couple of pulls and it's running.
 
I tell anyone using my tools,if it takes more than three pulls check the choke & kill switch. If I hear three more pulls without a fire, I try to go see what they're doing wrong. Most start in one or two anyway. By three, something probably ain't right.
 
I like the suggestion of having the dealer watch you starting it. If they can start it and you can't, there is something different going on.

I can have guys pulling and pulling on my saws. I walk over, and a couple of pulls and it's running.
That is why I asked if it was run before he took it to the dealer and they started it with ease.When he was at the dealer they should have showed him the correct way to start it before he left.Something just is not adding up:confused::confused:
The Husky dealer in St.Cloud,MN 20 miles from me which is a fleet supply store starts all the new saws up out back and makes sure the buyer knows everything about the saws operation before they leave with it.
 
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