Stihl ms200t bolt for bolt rebuild video

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I may take it apart and see if the impulse line is still attached or not at the cylinder. ...really seems like something major isn't right but i've overlooked it.
It may be worth switching a known good carb over. It could rule things out. Plus ease your mind[emoji2]


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this bog is driving me bonkers. can't run the saw all night in my basement...but it bogs there too. idles fine, hit the trigger, dies. will idle all day, hit the trigger, dies. I have now been into the carb 3x, cleaned out the high and low screws, metering lever is set right, gas flows through. impulse line is connected. I even trimmed a tiny bit of rubber away on the boot that seemed to be puckering into the impulse hole, no help.

its not getting fuel, somehow, but the carb is as clean and as functional as I can get it, gas IS getting to the carb... gas CAN flow through the metering lever/needle freely. what have I missed? this is maddening
Hi Mattyo

I did my chainsaw mechanics training with a ms200t. This is my mad story

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/ms200t-clutch-side-crank-seal-question.281065/

But anyway, I found after I'd changed the seals (tested ok, etc.) changed the piston and serviced the carb it came with real good, it still had a few niggly little faults. I did the famous accelerator pump block off trick - this helped - but it still had a weird cold start issue.

After reading that carbs on these babies eventually die in weird ways, I bought a new carb. Firstly I skimped out with a horrid chinese one. Not much better. Eventually I coughed up for a new stihl (pre-accelerator model - I've got the PN somewhere) carb. The saw now runs awesome and I love using it. The long and short of it is, I think, that this saws get so much use with throttle blipping that eventually shafts and bores wear out in the carbies in a hard to fix ways. And that wear can cause little leaks which can alter the mixture strength at various points in operation.

Sorry for the big essay, I do get like that, but in my very limited experience I found a new carb really perks these awesome saws up.
 
Not sure what I could have overlooked though. Even if the new carb works perfectly, what am I missing on this one? yes, peace of mind would be nice right now, admittedly.
Sometimes blocking the accelerator pump still doesn't fix these carbs. Probably 9 out of 10 times it works but once in a blue you get a bad one.
 
this bog is driving me bonkers. can't run the saw all night in my basement...but it bogs there too. idles fine, hit the trigger, dies. will idle all day, hit the trigger, dies. I have now been into the carb 3x, cleaned out the high and low screws, metering lever is set right, gas flows through. impulse line is connected. I even trimmed a tiny bit of rubber away on the boot that seemed to be puckering into the impulse hole, no help.

its not getting fuel, somehow, but the carb is as clean and as functional as I can get it, gas IS getting to the carb... gas CAN flow through the metering lever/needle freely. what have I missed? this is maddening
This the saw with cyl work?
 
strange thing is I think it WAS working. ... the decked and ported saw was working, now it bogs so bad it stalls.

did you check the vids Justin?
I just watched again and they seem to run good at wide open. Have you tried turning the idle screw down. I've had a broken spring on a few 200's and they still don't spin the chain that fast at idle.
 
the clutch on the 200 that stalled is cooked... it was run w/ a busted needle bearing...the whole thing is black. I'm going to replace the springs and see if that helps.

yes, the one w/ the port work has the bog... but it wasn't boggy when I first put it back together.
 
the clutch on the 200 that stalled is cooked... it was run w/ a busted needle bearing...the whole thing is black. I'm going to replace the springs and see if that helps.

yes, the one w/ the port work has the bog... but it wasn't boggy when I first put it back together.
So switch the carb with the good runner and tell me what happens. And i think I saw the coke can saw chain moving at idle if my old eyes are right put on new clutch springs.
 
ok, got a carb from HL supply, this one actually richens up. so if I richen the low screw a bit, the bog goes away. the other carb wouldn't richen the low screw... hmm
So it's good to go?
Do these am carbs have an accelerator pump?


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I think it's going to be ok, i've got the low screw out a bit more... maybe 1.5 turns to get the fuel I need to avoid the box.... the idle screw is full in. keep in mind, I tested this for about 10 seconds total in my basement at 9pm.

no accel pump as far as I can see. for sure though, this carb can flow more fuel than the other one... must have been clogged somewhere that I couldn't see or find. on this one, if I turn the low screw out too much, I can kill the saw w/ richness. on the stock one, I couldn't do that.
 

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