Stihl MS260 Pro chainsaw carburetor question

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Okiedust

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My Stihl MS260 Pro was purchased new around 2006. To get the saw to start the throttle must be fully depressed when cranking. After the saw starts and warms up it runs great at full throttle but once I let off the throttle it idles for a few seconds and dies. I have run two cans of Stihl's moto pre mixed fuel and it seems to have helped it some but still dies upon idleing when the engine warms up. Adjusting the carb has not helped. I don't have much experience adjusting carbs but I turned both the high and low to stop and backed them out one turn and adjusted the LE to no avail.
I removed the carb which is a Walbro WTE 623 and I have searched the internet including the Walbro site and cannot find any info on this carburetor.
I would either try rebuilding the carb or purchase a new one but since the internet search has not found this model number I do not know what to purchase.
I see that the WT-194 is a popular carb for this saw. Would it be a possible replacement? Also, I see carbs for about $20 or the brand Walbro for about $60. Any thoughts on the cheap carbs, are they junk or not?
Thanks for any input on my situation.
 
For new carbs if it is a non-compensator carb the wt 194, a compensator the wt 426.

Try cleaning the carb and/or a kit first. Check metering valve and seat. Lots of times just cleaning and can still use the old parts. Make sure everything goes back in proper order. Lay things out and label things as you remove them

Also make sure it is not an air leak problem or a pin hole in a fuel line.

See if the idle problem is different depending on orientation of the saw (held to the side), might be a seal starting to go.
 
Thanks for the reply. I will take the carb to my Stihl dealer and let him pick the correct rebuild kit.
 
I wouldn't go to a stihl dealer. They will probably try and sell you a stihl kit which usually costs about twice as much as a Walbro kit. Find a dealer close and buy yourself a K10-WAT, or a D10-WAT. (K=kit includes large needle, D=diaphragms only). They make a D10-WTE and K10-WTE kit, but I doubt anyone would have it in stock. You just need to make sure of which needle you have. It should be the larger one, and that will come with the K10-WAT kit. If you have the smaller needle, you will need to buy the K20-WAT kit. If you take apart your carb, then I can tell you exactly the parts you need.
 
Thanks for your help. The needle in my carb is 3/8inch long. Looking at pictures of the K-20 kit, I must have the short needle.
 
i second the dont go to the stihl dealer. when i went to mine trying to give them business and asked for a kit they looked at me like i was insane. they explained they could order it for me but they dont stock it since they just replace the carb altogether. the last 2-3 ms260pro saws i did i actually bought aftermarket carbs for since they were cheaper than the rebuild kits and work great.
 
i second the dont go to the stihl dealer. when i went to mine trying to give them business and asked for a kit they looked at me like i was insane. they explained they could order it for me but they dont stock it since they just replace the carb altogether. the last 2-3 ms260pro saws i did i actually bought aftermarket carbs for since they were cheaper than the rebuild kits and work great.

Not all dealers are like that.
 
Not all dealers are like that.

i think my post came off a little too strong about being anti dealers. lol. the one i go to all the time are a great dealer. All the shops around me that i've called dont carry the kits, but i'm sure there are some around that do.

i forgot to say this another place you can get carb kits and are reasonably fast and priced is napa auto parts believe it or not.
 
Thanks for your help. The needle in my carb is 3/8inch long. Looking at pictures of the K-20 kit, I must have the short needle.

That should be the small needle. And you should be able to get a K20-WAT kit and be just fine with that.

Not all dealers are like that.

This is true. Every dealer is different. I can tell you that the majority of Stihl dealers around where I am are like that. They either just replace the carb, or might try and order you a kit from Stihl. Some do stock Walbro and Zama kits. The dealer that I buy my parts from does. They also don't get butt hurt if I let them know I can get something cheaper somewhere else. They also don't try and price match either.
 
I got a K10 WTE kit from ebay to use on a MS260 Walbro carb WTE series. It worked fine. WTE carbs don't show up much on google searches, info seems limited. I never found the setting for the metering lever, though, the regular Walbro gauge doesn't seem to work.
 
My Stihl MS260 Pro was purchased new around 2006. To get the saw to start the throttle must be fully depressed when cranking. After the saw starts and warms up it runs great at full throttle but once I let off the throttle it idles for a few seconds and dies. I have run two cans of Stihl's moto pre mixed fuel and it seems to have helped it some but still dies upon idleing when the engine warms up. Adjusting the carb has not helped. I don't have much experience adjusting carbs but I turned both the high and low to stop and backed them out one turn and adjusted the LE to no avail.

My 260pro has the exact same problem. Carb kit did not work for me but may for you. See below.

Also make sure it is not an air leak problem or a pin hole in a fuel line.

See if the idle problem is different depending on orientation of the saw (held to the side), might be a seal starting to go.

^^^^THIS. Apparently this is my problem. A memeber here has it for repair. Said he found an air leak; it is sucking air around the throttle shaft ends. I have no idea what he is talking about. Anyhow I ordered a new Walbro carb ($60) from the dealer today.
 
Those saws are prone to crank seal failures. Have your shop do a pressure/vacuum test. I'm betting it's an air leak and not a carb problem.
 
I got a K20-WAT kit. This kit came with both a long and a short needle. After soaking my disassembled carb in mineral spirits for two days and then using a whole can of carb cleaner through all of the orifices, I rebuilt the carb, assembled everything and fired it up and now it runs great. Glad it wasn't the seals. This was my first carb rebuild and I had fun doing it. I noticed the original needle had a rubber tip and the new one was solid metal. Also, the metering lever looked slightly different. The forks were a bit shorter and the end contacting the diaphragm was slightly smaller. My original needle and metering lever showed no sign of wear so I reused them. Thanks for all the help. I also learned quite a bit watching You Tube videos. Some were a waste of time but others I found very helpful.
 
Glad you got it running! The new tip isn't metal, btw. It's just a coating. It will eventually wear down/off. The coating isn't necessary, but I suppose is there for a reason. As long as there isn't a groove worn into the needle and it is still ply-able, then you should be fine. You can always PM me if you need anything.
 
Do you run ethanol fuels in ur saw. Sounds more along the lines of a crank seal leak impulse line or intake boot issue my 026 had that issue with the pusle line and cracks in the fuel line saw would run inconsistent now it has no issues. I didnt even need a new needle or diaphragm for the carb just a good cleaning
 

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