Hi All, have a stihl 031av saw that will idle fine and I can adjust the L screw fine per madsens web sit. When I give it throttle, the saw bogs down and will either run like it needs more fuel (sort of bucks and kicks) or will die. if I let off the throttle it goes back to idle. Cleaned the carb, fresh fuel, good spark, muffler ok. Can anyone give me some more suggestions? Thanks, Bart
Stihl saw will not run at full throttle
- Thread starter pinmakers
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When you say you cleaned the carb and the muffler is OK, what exactly did you do or check?
Hi, I took the low and high screw out of the carb (walboro), removed the diaphragm cover, checked diaphragm for wear, cracks, removed the other cover on top, dont know what its called that houses the little metering flaps, they're ok, checked the brass screen, clean, removed metering needle, spring etc. shot carb cleaner throughout, let sit, then blewout with air.
Removed muffler and checked for buildup,slight buildup where it connects to head, cleaned it too. Hope this helps, Bart
Removed muffler and checked for buildup,slight buildup where it connects to head, cleaned it too. Hope this helps, Bart
sugarbush
ArboristSite Guru
check for a short in ignition, take your bar and chain off, ( at nite) start, turn out the lite's an rev it up. should be able to see if spark is jumping, (cracked wire). may also be your point's.pinmakers said:
sugarbush said:
Thanks, I am new to this, when the bars off, where is the ignition and points located, also, would you know what the point specs should be? How can I tell if they are worn?
Thanks, Bart
sugarbush
ArboristSite Guru
the point's are behind the flywheel and you'll need a special puller for that. check for a short first, then you'll be better off taking it to a shop for the point's if there is no short.pinmakers said:
Rotax Robert
Addicted to ArboristSite
On the flywheel side, It just makes it easier to flip and roll the saw around in the dark without cutting half the stuff up in your shop.
Rotax
Rotax
Rotax Robert said:
Speaking of the dark, I had to laugh, I lent my other stihl and a poulan to our neighbor last night who helps us all the time, they have pine beetles and had to take down 5 trees, they actually did it in the dark!! I thought they'd at least wait till morning, Boneheads knocked down they're 30 yr. old antique birdhouse falling the last tree......smitherines!
Your points can be set right, look good, but if the spring tension that closes your points is to weak, at high rpm range they would stay open.
Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
pinmakers said:Speaking of the dark, I had to laugh, I lent my other stihl and a poulan to our neighbor last night who helps us all the time, they have pine beetles and had to take down 5 trees, they actually did it in the dark!! I thought they'd at least wait till morning, Boneheads knocked down they're 30 yr. old antique birdhouse falling the last tree......smitherines!
Hey, get some pics, and of the stump and cut also so we can see what he did. Be good fun for us. I wonder if he actually aimed for it or cut thru his hingewood etc?
skip
You have a bad points and condenser. Replace it with an aftermarket module, with the positive and ground switched, and you are good to go.
You have a bad points and condenser. Replace it with an aftermarket module, with the positive and ground switched, and you are good to go.
Fish
Tree Freak
I agree, it sounds like an ignition problem.
I bought 1 of those modules that replace the pts.& cnds. under $20 on ebay. I think there is 1 listed now. If your coil and switch are good that should work. I never used mine but it looks easy to install with instructions. There is a few differant ones for differant applications. The seller will tell you the one you need for your saw .
