Suggestions on how to build 4 way wedge

[pyro2]

I'm looking for suggestions on how to build a 4 way wedge for my Lickity Log Splitter. The splitter is quite old and is nothing like you see nowadays. The wedge is static and is 14" long and 9" high. Due to the size of the wedge I can't find anything that "slips" on that is compatible.

I'm thinking of building my own and having a friend weld it together. I found a guy on ebay that sells some 6" 3/4" thick wings for the sides. But I'm not sure how to make the slip on main wedge. I see some skinny single pieces of steel that is tapered on both sides, but I don't think that will work. I was thinking of getting two pieces of 1/2" 9"x14" steel and having them weld them at the same angle as my existing wedge. But I don't know how to get a good point if I just butted two pieces of steel together. Also concerned about weight. Timberwolf seems to have a nice 4 way wedge design but it almost looks like they took the two steel panels as I described before but added an additional 1" blade in front.

I obviously don't know much about welding so hoping for some suggestions that I could take to my welder friend. Thanks!

 

[muddstopper]

I think the design in your pic is going to work as well as anthing, just build it to fit your current wedge. On suggestion of sharpening the side wedges. Just sharpen them on the top side only. If you sharpen on both edges, the 4way will have a tendency to lift as the wood is pushed thru it. Of course if you are making the 4way where you can turn it over for different size splits, then just forget what I just said.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I had two ideas and then deleted them both.
-Adding a slip-on to your splitter shortens the distance between full extension of the ram and the wedge. The result could be contact under pressure.
-Adding a bolt on feature could result in bolt failure under pressure, in which case, well...in either case the fine print would be "injury or death".
You referenced Timberwolf's four-way. Here are some pictures of one. This one has been modified, but not in a way that effects the main cylinder hydraulics. It does back load the wedge causing it to stick, or sometimes come off when in the raised position. The wings purpose is to aide in resplitting and actually works very well.
An out feed table and especially a staging bench next to your splitter would greatly improve production, as much or more than a four-way. A bench next to the splitter catches large halves waiting to be resplit.

 

[pyro2]

My concern isn't with the wings. I plan to do one tapered edge on the wings. I also plan to angle the wings up just a few degrees to further ensure pieces don't get stuck. I also plan to set the wings back a few inches.

What I am asking about is the vertical blade. What sizes of metal to use and how to join/weld them. I have a few different designs I can think of, but don't know which is best. It's hard to tell how the Timberwolf did it. The main question is can I make the blade from two 1/2" plates (designs C and D), or do I need a separate 1" blade with two bevels to put in the front (designs A and B). Downsides of A&B is that I need to buy a 8" blade and then cut just the blade off and through the rest away.

I'm not sure if C and D are strong enough and not sure if there is any where to weld that won't be ground away to remake the blade.

 

[dave_dj1]

I think you could adapt the type you show there pyro2
take that picture to a welder and give them dimensions of your wedge.

 

[mdavlee]

1/2" should be thick enough for the vertical part. You could weld them together and then another piece like the picture shows as a triangle for the point or make it with weld and grind to shape. The original wedge will hold it from bending in. The strongest weld would be to V one or both sides when the wings are welded on. If you do both there's less of a chance of warping it up or down depending on which side was V out.