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I don't have to look in the tank, I can see it when I take the cap off, white corrosion all over it. I don't know if all the EZs I have are like that but I know some cleaning is gonna happen. Got any ideas of what to use to clean that stuff out? I tried a little wire brush around the threaded area of the tank and it didn't do much.

No, I still do not have a good plan for cleaning a chainsaw gas tank. I used gun bore brushes on a rod long enough to reach into the tank and spun them on a small vari speed drill, lacq thinner, acetone, and just a PITA.

But a Redneck idea that I've used on other tanks: (that reduces the physical workout pain of cleaning)
I've cleaned the larger gas tanks from auto's and some of the old metal small engines gas tanks that I'm going to Red Kote the insides by jacking up the rear tire on my tractor and strapping them to the tractor rim and using a piece of old carpet for padding between the tank and the wheel rim and just letting the slow spinning tractor tire tumble them with a piece of old porch swing inside and just use little bit of water at first and I can go do other things in the meantime. I park the tractor within reach of a water hose so I can rinse them out while they are still attached and go again until the rinse water comes clean.
I've had to let the tractor spin some of the really bad tanks for as long as 3-4 hours.

I'll probably do the same tumbling routine to the next chainsaw that needs a good gas tank cleaning placing some small items inside to get the little crevices scrubbed clean.. I would not red-kote the chainsaw tank, once the saw tank comes clean the gas/oil mix will keep it good for long time.
;)
 
No, I still do not have a good plan for cleaning a chainsaw gas tank. I used gun bore brushes on a rod long enough to reach into the tank and spun them on a small vari speed drill, lacq thinner, acetone, and just a PITA.

But a Redneck idea that I've used on other tanks: (that reduces the physical workout pain of cleaning)
I've cleaned the larger gas tanks from auto's and some of the old metal small engines gas tanks that I'm going to Red Kote the insides by jacking up the rear tire on my tractor and strapping them to the tractor rim and using a piece of old carpet for padding between the tank and the wheel rim and just letting the slow spinning tractor tire tumble them with a piece of old porch swing inside and just use little bit of water at first and I can go do other things in the meantime. I park the tractor within reach of a water hose so I can rinse them out while they are still attached and go again until the rinse water comes clean.
I've had to let the tractor spin some of the really bad tanks for as long as 3-4 hours.

I'll probably do the same tumbling routine to the next chainsaw that needs a good gas tank cleaning placing some small items inside to get the little crevices scrubbed clean.. I would not red-kote the chainsaw tank, once the saw tank comes clean the gas/oil mix will keep it good for long time.
;)

I like that tractor idea. Very inventive. I know the tank screws are a pain to get out (heat works) but you could always spit the tank, clean it out, make a new gasket and put it back together.
 
Good news, I guess...I looked into the tank and it wasn't corroded, only the threads for the cap were corroded, tank had some fuel in it so I guess it kept it from corroding. The bad news is: the one I thought had an air leak still does. I tried cleaning the carburetor out, which it already looked clean and it didn't help so I put that carb on another saw and it ran for awhile but when I started adjusting it, it died and I couldn't get it started again. I checked the plug and it was wet so I'm setting the carb back to the start and letting it dry out. I also took all the good stuff off the one with the air leak and put it on another saw.
 
Good news, I guess...I looked into the tank and it wasn't corroded, only the threads for the cap were corroded, tank had some fuel in it so I guess it kept it from corroding. The bad news is: the one I thought had an air leak still does. I tried cleaning the carburetor out, which it already looked clean and it didn't help so I put that carb on another saw and it ran for awhile but when I started adjusting it, it died and I couldn't get it started again. It will probably start and run again for awhile after the block gets cold, which is another sign of flooding. I checked the plug and it was wet so I'm setting the carb back to the start and letting it dry out. I also took all the good stuff off the one with the air leak and put it on another saw.

I've seen the HDC flood to where the saw would start and run a little while when cold but as the engine warmed up and died no re-start due to flooded crankcase and would not re-start until the saw rested for awhile letting the block get cold. You might try disconnecting the fuel line even while the carb is on the saw and apply some pressure and see if it will hold at least 3-5 lbs pressure to the inlet port. If not holding at least 3 lbs pressure the needle/seat is leaking and not seating and causing the flood. I seen a HDC flooding and not holding any pressure and found a Bubba had somehow collapsed one end of the little metering lever spring which reduced it's closing force tension on the metering lever and needle and I re-strectched the spring too same length as a regular spring got the needle seat to hold 4 lbs pressure and all ok.
Sometimes the air box area will even get wet with gas with gas if a severe flooding carb.

Leave the end off the muffler when testing (tuning) and watch if the exhaust stays wet (rich) when tuning the carb.
The saw will sound like it's really 4 cycling when you rev and when you kill the saw the piston and exhaust will be really wet and the H jet will never go lean if you try to get a piss rev. (this is a good visual hint of a carb that is flooding and won't tune to a lean condition, just continuous over rich 4 cycling.

Kinda sounds like as many as you are going to be flogging, time to get out or make the block off plates and just start vac/pressure testing. Sure good to know that you are at least working on a good sealed crankcase and you can look at compression, ignition, carb as the issue.

My compression gauge does not indicate over 140-150 for a real good saw (it don't read real high on any saws) and I've seen the EZ series start and run real good with as low as 80 psi on my gauge. I kinda thought these saws with that low indicating compression would be weak and hard to start but got a pleasant surprise when they tested ok, starting and cutting wood. I always remove the muffler and look at the piston/cylinder with a good light even though the compression is good. A saw can have good compression and seem ok but have a piston being chewed on or you can see where it's been run lean and the saw has previously seized and has or is getting terminal cancer.
With the compression release off I can kinda tell on a pull thru stroke on a EZ if one has enough compression to start and run by the feel of the rope pull.
 
I just got another one going, think that makes three. It was flooded but I let it dry for awhile and fired it up. I adjusted the idle a little but the high side was about perfect as is. I may still take a part or two off another saw for this one, like the handle rubber pieces, one is missing on this latest saw. I also had to block off the manual oiler because I couldn't fish the bad parts out. The automatic works great though. I may still do a pressure test on the other one because I know it's not the carb now.
 
Those Homelite oilers throw tons of oil. Makes a hell of a mess under the clutch cover when cutting dry dusty wood.

Yep, oil on the workbench after doing a run test. The EZ's oil even at idle. (maybe)

About the oilers. I was tuning a EZ carb few days ago outside the shop without the clutch and sprocket attached to the power head and just happen to see something fall off the saw and it was a oiler gear. The sprocket thrust washer holds the slip fit gear in place on the crankshaft. Keep a heads up for oiler gear falling off if you are testing the EZ power head without the sprocket/clutch attached.
 
In my spare time today I made an intake block off plate, and exhaust plate and a sparkplug with a piece of copper tubing epoxied in the center of it. It looks like in a couple of days or less I'll know where the leak is on the 4th one. There may be enough parts left over to go for number 5. It will be a completely built from scratch saw, nothing there but a bunch of parts.
 
When you pres/vac test the EZs move the crank about and push pull it is all directions, including side to side while turning it. Those little seals need to be in very good shape and most of the originals are not good enough anymore.
 
When you pres/vac test the EZs move the crank about and push pull it is all directions, including side to side while turning it. Those little seals need to be in very good shape and most of the originals are not good enough anymore.

Right about moving the crank especially on the bar side.
AND here is a picture of the little spiral slip on oil gear that can fall off into the dirt if tuning a EZ without the clutch attached.
It just slip fits on/off the crank.
182491014085 (ebay number)

AND

The crankcase seal is in behind this stuff. (in case you need to apply soap to look for bubbles when pressure testing)
I'm not sure but you might be able to pull this little gear out with a pick or o ring puller (I could just pull my gear on /off with a o ring sharp pointed puller, after I seen it fall off and the gear is just a friction fit onto the crank) and check the seal for a leak without having to pull the oil pump.
 
I have at least 2 more crankcases for these saws. If this one I'm working on has an air leak I might be able to find one that doesn't and use it. If it's a reed valve gasket I'll replace it. If I have to split the case it will become a parts saw..
 
Well, I did find one thing terribly wrong with the engine, the nuts holding the cylinder on were out about 2 turns, letting air leak between the crankcase and cylinder, also the compression release was leaking a bit when it was in. I couldn't get a wrench on the nuts but I did use a chisel on the edges to tighten it some. I still need to go get a carburetor for it that's better than these crusty things I have. Maybe do that tomorrow when I get finished with wife's car.
 
a palnmer jr

check your pm.

Sounds like Bubba has been into the saw previously. When someone else has been flogging one previously and no history know why or what started the saws issue them can sometimes be the ones that are more challenging to repair.
 
Well, I did find one thing terribly wrong with the engine, the nuts holding the cylinder on were out about 2 turns, letting air leak between the crankcase and cylinder, also the compression release was leaking a bit when it was in. I couldn't get a wrench on the nuts but I did use a chisel on the edges to tighten it some. I still need to go get a carburetor for it that's better than these crusty things I have. Maybe do that tomorrow when I get finished with wife's car.

It's pretty tough to tighten the cylinder bolts with the rear handle on. I took a cheap combination wrench and ground the box end down so it would slip it over the studs. Works well. Especially on the left hand side nuts. You still need to pull the rear handle off though.
 
Back to the drawing board on a EZ.
One of my old EZ's during the final tuning just before storage went down yesterday. Carb L and H jets went crazy, even the H jet has more affect on idle than the L jet as the saw warms up and they change as the saw cools and heats. When it's heating both L and H want to be adjusted almost closed, lean.

I'm thinking intermittent air leak???? I have another good carb, but I'm planning on doing a VAC/Pressure test while the carb is off.
Noticed the saw would run better with the compression release activated (compression released), but sometimes re-start easier if the compression release was off (max compression)???
 
Back to the drawing board on a EZ.
One of my old EZ's during the final tuning just before storage went down yesterday. Carb L and H jets went crazy, even the H jet has more affect on idle than the L jet as the saw warms up and they change as the saw cools and heats. When it's heating both L and H want to be adjusted almost closed, lean.

I'm thinking intermittent air leak???? I have another good carb, but I'm planning on doing a VAC/Pressure test while the carb is off.
Noticed the saw would run better with the compression release activated (compression released), but sometimes re-start easier if the compression release was off (max compression)???
Be sure to check the nuts that hold the cylinder to the crankcase, I've seen a bunch of them loosen and cause an air leak..
 
Be sure to check the nuts that hold the cylinder to the crankcase, I've seen a bunch of them loosen and cause an air leak..

Thanks, will do. Noticed you had issues with that. After I seen your post I briefly tried to fit a wrench on the left side and no go. I'll get back to that. Seems strange they would just loosen up. The gasket must be thinning???

I also noticed it seems to be common for the compression release to leak just little bit sometimes on some of the EZ's. Don't seem to bother their running but have to keep such in mind when vac/pressure testing. I tried removing the compression needle and cleaning the seat on one but still same. Appears the seat is pressed into the head? (no hex for a wrench to unscrew it)

I downloaded all those service manuals and burned them to a CD disk. Have to do some reading now. (and maybe start over);)
Got a priority project and the EZ's will be on the back burner for few days.
 
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