Super EZ

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I think those nuts came out with lock washers and the ones on mine had none which is why mine loosened. To tighten them I use a thin wall box wrench with the edge ground down a bit. You still have to take the handle off to get to all four. I tried something else that was highly unsuccessful and that is to take a piston ring from one saw and put it in another...seems those rings must get brittle with the 40 years as I wasn't able to install a second one on the saw I'm working on currently. Seems to have about as much compression with one ring as with two.
 
Those hdc carbs are finicky. Period. For starters, new seals go a long ways in providing the impulse needed to maintain steady idle and transition to throttle. The capillary style high speed check valves can curl a bit in the pocket they reside. This can lead to lean idle symptoms. Use a piece of fuel line and gently blow/suck with it sealed against the screen under the metering plate. It should only pass into the Venturi and check (well) on the reverse. As well, there is an additional impulse port that is opened upon throttle. It is indexed through the throttle shaft on the rear flange of the carb. Make certain this port is clear and any new gaskets are punched out in that area. You should be able to blow cleaner or wd40 through the screen on the flange and have it move out into the metering area when the throttle is opened. From what I gather, this may act similar to an accelerator pump. Helps with throttle and the L can be adjusted fairly lean.

The idle circuit is not independent of the high speed. An adjustment on the high will really impact the low. Set the high first and leave it. Then adjust the L as lean as possible for throttle response. I have found on many of them, that if the idle speed screw is set in too far it with richen up and die. Likely a combination of the throttle shaft impulse opening slightly and the intermediate idle port being opened by the butterfly.
 
After I get the one together that I'm working on then I'll have to find a carb that will work on it. I have several clean ones from a Super 2 but of course the levers are different. Looking at the possibility of changing the levers on a Super 2 carb to fit the EZ but I'm just guessing right now, never tried it.
 
a palmer jr : You were right it was leaking lots of air at the cylinder due to the nuts being loose and no lock washers on the studs. I ground down a 1/2 inch 12 point box and got all 4 tight and the compression release also leaks somewhat, BUT I'm at a loss. I got it all back together and I was really happy and expecting to just adjust the carb and put it on the shelf but not much if any change in the way it runs.
I can eventually get it started with the compression release ON and almost as soon as the compression release is turned to off the saw dies almost as fast as using the kill switch. I can tune the carb somewhat leaving the compression release ON and when it sounds like it run I quickly pull the trigger and it just dies almost as fast as if the kill switch is set to OFF. (I can pull the trigger and let go real fast for idle and it just dies) It won't even try to accelerate with the compression release on. Tried another carb, spark plug, coil, has new points still same symptoms as before I found the cylinder leak???. Points set on .015, air gap on coil at .010. I might try my ign spark tester while it's running and watch for spark as it's dieing??? Sounds and feels more like the higher compression for run is upsetting the carb (carb's) somehow though????
I'm letting it rest. My brain is in gear, if you smell wood burning it's just my block head thinking on this one.:nofunny: Practicing patience again.;)
Anyone got any ideas as to maybe why when the EZ saw sees more compression it just shuts down?????
The compression release seeps quite a bit but does not seem excessive and compression checks 140-150. I have one EZ that checks at barely 100 and it runs good and strong.
 
You didn't mention if you checked for leaks after you tightened the nuts. The one I took apart also had a bad cylinder gasket so it would leak anyway. I put a different cylinder on mine, one with a good gasket but I used gasket sealer on it anyway. I hate it but I put mine together with just the top piston ring since I kept breaking rings trying to put them on. Probably should have sprung for some Cabers (guess I still can). I'm still looking for a decent bar for this saw, might go to the mower shop tomorrow and see what they have..
 
a palmer jr:

Yes I checked it after tightening the nuts. I had a tapered rubber plug I could hold in the comp release hole to hole pressure and vac while rotating the crank.

But the saw is fixed. I really feel weak in the head right now. This little feller had me whipped down.
I walked by the saw this evening , letting it rest in the corner of the shop and just stood and looked at it, picked it up carried it outside, got it started with the compression button in for low comp and got it started and adjusted the carb while it was on low compression and held the button in and open the throttle further with the small screwdriver and got the H jet adjusted so as the saw would accelerate and almost go but in jerks and finally die after I released the compression. I went back into the shop and got my spark tester and seen the other spark plug laying on the bench and picked it up while checking the long lead on the neon light type spark tester and noticed the gap on the plug was almost closed. I pulled the plug in the saw and both plugs gap was at about probably .005-.008.
As I working on the saw I was sticking a rope into the muffler port every once in awhile while a spark plug was in the saw as I was using the flywheel puller, removing clutch and then tightening down the flywheel nut and clutch area and the rope had closed up the gap on both spark plugs. Feel like doing this to myself.:buttkick:
 
Those hdc carbs are finicky. Period. For starters, new seals (no crankcase leaks) go a long ways in providing the impulse needed to maintain steady idle and transition to throttle. The capillary style high speed check valves can curl a bit in the pocket they reside. This can lead to lean idle symptoms. Use a piece of fuel line and gently blow/suck with it sealed against the screen under the metering plate. It should only pass into the Venturi and check (well) on the reverse. As well, there is an additional impulse port that is opened upon throttle. It is indexed through the throttle shaft on the rear flange of the carb. Make certain this port is clear and any new gaskets are punched out in that area. You should be able to blow cleaner or wd40 through the screen on the flange and have it move out into the metering area when the throttle is opened. From what I gather, this may act similar to an accelerator pump. Helps with throttle and the L can be adjusted fairly lean.

The idle circuit is not independent of the high speed. I've noticed such also An adjustment on the H jet will really impact the low. (especially if the saw is idling fast) Set the high first and leave it. (right) Then adjust the L as lean as possible for throttle response. (and start slowing down the idle with the idle speed screw so as to lean out the intermediate idle port instead of backing out the L idle jet to slow the idle speed)) I have found on many of them, that if the idle speed screw is set in too far it with richen up and die. Likely a combination (both ports intermediate and low feeding the engine) of the throttle shaft impulse opening slightly and the intermediate idle port being opened by the butterfly.

Agree: If the carb is MIS- adjusted so as the idle speed screw on some of the EZ's is in too far (all the way or almost all the way) to get a idle and the L jet is backed out too far (which makes the idle slower instead of using the idle SPEED screw) the saw will sit at idle and eventually start loading up idle getting slower after awhile at idle and exhaust momentarily generate blue smoke when accelerated and the richness temporarily removed until it's let idle again for awhile.

try to adjust the L jet so as the idle screw can be out as far as possible so as the intermediate port is not being used when at idle. (and I then adjust the H jet OUT for a slight 4 cycle on a unloaded piss rev at the final so as to not run the saw lean when loaded in a cut)
 
I slapped yet another carb on the last Super EZ and it ran about the same, no idle and it only ran for a short while before quitting. I'm pretty sure I got the carb cleaned and kitted properly so I'm saying this thing has yet another air leak. I'm calling it quits on these saws for now, got the engine out of my lawn mower and need some time to replace it and put it back together.
 
a palmer jr:

Letting my erratic saw rest for couple days helped mine. I had accidently closed up the spark plug gap by feeding the rope in thru the muffler port.
My pressure injection was thru the carb port is why the rope contacted the installed spark plug and reduced it's gap to .005. I now vac/pressure test thru the spark plug hole instead of the carb intake.

I've had to sometimes pull a carb off one of my good running saws (a know good carb) and use it as a test donor on the erratic saw so as to ease my mind and too make sure it's not a carb issue, then test the ignition and vac/pressure.

On the EZ's the compression release can leak quite a lot and the saw will still perform ok when all else is ok.

I've seen erratic condensers really cause some intermittent ignition pains on old points type chainsaws.
 
I've lucked out so far and not ran into the electronic ign type EZ's blue coil of death Phelon ignition types.
I've got a EZ or XL Homelite power head in my spare parts stuff that probably had one of those electronic ignitions, because I see the flywheel is not wico and the coil is missing and no wires coming from under the flywheel and it had a HDC carb.

Riding Lawn mower engines. A guy gave me a 15.5 Briggs single cylinder OHV and the old carb and said a guy put a new carb on it and it knocked afterwards. He just ordered the guy a new engine. Long story short I found a ear off a wing nut on top of the piston causing the knock. (I went looking for the slight hard to turn over every once in awhile cause before firing the engine). Someone had apparently dropped the little broken wing nut ear into the carb throat while working on the engine or it came out of the new carb when installed. The ear was soft enough that it had not ruined anything. Engine running good on my mower with their old cleaned carb. Some days thing just go right, other days I just go back to bed and wait for the next day and try again.;)
 
Slow progress on the mower. Got engine bolted down and drive pulley and belt installed. New engine has fuel pump and my old one had gravity feed, kinda wondering which way to go. I guess the next step is to put the electric clutch on it.
 
Slow progress on the mower. Got engine bolted down and drive pulley and belt installed. New engine has fuel pump and my old one had gravity feed, kinda wondering which way to go. I guess the next step is to put the electric clutch on it.

Here is a link to a place to get some small engine info of that type.
Post the mower model and mainly the engine info. subscribe to your post after registering
http://ppeten.com/forums/index.php

I install a manual fuel cut-off on all my own mowers even if they have a fuel pump and especially if the gas tank is higher than the carb. (manual cut-off valve in the fuel line prevents fuel from seeping into the crankcase when the engine is at rest)
Some carbs have a antibackfire solenoid on the carb and people think that is a permanent fuel cut-off.
The anti back fire solenoid is only intended to reduce flow of enough gas so as the engine won't suck gas and backfire as the engine is dying. Gas will seep thru it over time and into the crankcase.
 
I dragged yet another Super EZ home this morning, this one has a good piston and good compression but has the dreaded blue coil and no spark. I checked the kill wire to be sure and it was fine. I'll try to take a coil from another saw and try it on this one, maybe get another one running. Also got 8 Poulans to get running plus my lawn mower engine change isn't quite complete. Looks like I'll be in the shop a lot this summer.
 
Have you ever tried a conventional coil and a ele3ctronic nova chip in place of a blue coil?

I've heard rumors some give it a try and the EZ flew good, but I've never tried such YET because I've been lucky and not encountered the blue electronic dead coils yet.
 
Yep, there's a couple of them here. I'm not sure they have the Nova though, one has the Atom chip and the other doesn't have a name on it, both put out a good spark. The one I got today had a grounded kill switch terminal when the kill switch was disconnected, not sure that means anything but it didn't have any spark.
 
Okay, I now have four working saws out of that box and I gave another one to my wife's cousin, making a total of 5. I just about have enough parts for a 6th one but it will be rather rough except I did fine a new piston and cylinder to put in it. I will have to hunt for yet another carburetor and use a points coil and a chip for the ignition. Something to think about...
On my last one I tried a low profile 3/8 chain and a modified Poulan bar and it seems to be perfect on these EZ saws. I always thought the regular 3/8 chain was too much for these little saws...
 
If the inside of the tank is not too pitted Iv'e had success with a small amount of neat gas & a hand full of big 1/2"size shake proof washers ( the ones with the teeth on the outside) & some m6 nuts Shake about (time dependent on the amount of crud)tipping as required, repeat as necessary make sure you get all the metal work out of the tank
 
As far as I can tell, all the fuel tanks on my saws have been just fine as far as corrosion is concerned. A "problem" I noticed on my last saw was a dinging sound coming from the clutch side of it, similar to what you hear on many Stihl saws. I took both side covers off and didn't notice anything loose other than maybe a little play in the sprocket but not much. Maybe I should have put another washer in between the sprocket and the engine but I really don't think it's that much of a concern..
 

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