Swaged cable

[northmanlogging]

Well about time I replaced the missus's tail.

I can get swaged cable for only a little more than regular bright finish,

Is it worth the extra cost supposed to be more wear resistant, if that is the case sign me up. if not I'll stick with the ole tried and true.

 

[nk14zp]

Get it.

 

[Plankton]

I use swaged cable on my skidder, less jaggers, stronger for same diameter cable.


If you not careful it is easy to turn it into a slinky, same with any cable but I think it happens easier to swaged.



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[dancan]

What's the cause of the slinky ?

 

[northmanlogging]

So turns out the price difference was nearly triple.

and the stuff they had in stock was very stiff, probably never would have gotten it worked into the drum without causing a birds nest on every turn, so I went with the good ole bright finish

 

[dancan]

Strange , when I called WireRope up here and asked for a swaged cable for my winch the said "Oh , you want Bright ?" .

What's the cause of the slinky ?

Never mind I found the answer .

with any cable the only time i have problems with coiling is when you rip the cable across something like when you use scissors on a ribbon too make it pig tail. most often skidder line problems are operator error. it really pisses me of when someone screws up a cable a nearly 3 bucks per ft. on pure stupidity.

Edit:
I got a more knowledgeable person on the phone today , bright is only a finish , not the same as swedged .

 

[Plankton]

Also if you don't drive the skidder forward to pull out slack before you winch in it will wrap on the drum badly and give it the permanent coil, which can be fixed by leaving your skidder over night with the cable spooled all the way out hitched tight to a stump etc.

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[dancan]

How do you guys reload/reinstall your new winch cable ?

 

[northmanlogging]

stuff the end through the hole, run it under itself to create a knot, wind it up, supposed to make a bight and force that through the hole, but that is nearly impossible with 3/4 cable...

Other winches use a ferrule on the end just like a choker knob and your supposed to just hook that in the slot and call it good.

Big secret is to wind the cable off the spool the same way, like an old cassette tape, so that the factory bend is kept rather then trying to create a new one.

Plus side to the half hitch is the bastard never falls off, and will always be there.

The negative side is the bastard never falls off and will always be theres, the ferrule style and pushing the bite is meant to be able to come loose quickly if you need to run away or change a new line... with a knot in her you pretty much need a grinder or a crazy person and a chisel.

 

[bnmc98]

the ferrule style and pushing the bite is meant to be able to come loose quickly if you need to run away or change a new line...

The down side to it is you have to leave more than a few wraps on the drum so it doesn't pop out and run away through your arch. So effectively you have less cable to work with than is on your spool

 

[northmanlogging]

technically yer not supposed to do that with the knot either... not that anyone is listening to that including me...

 

[SliverPicker]

Stick to the tried and true. Swaged is too stiff in my opinion. Less fightin' is more earnin'.

 

[Gypo Logger]

When I had my 540A, I never had to buy mainline. I got in touch with an elevator company, they have to change out the cable after so many hrs. The cable is very strong and quite plyable.
When I changed cable, Id choke a stump or tree, then winch in with the skidder in neutral.

 

[northmanlogging]

I set the park brake to drag a little, but do the same thing, packs it in nice and tight that first go around.

 

[SliverPicker]

I do the same or winch the crummy up a convenient moderate hill with the park brake locked (when the brake happens to be working).

 

[Gypo Logger]

Now tying the knot at the last slidder and choker gets challenging when alone.
I'd choke a tree, put skidder in neutral, winch on, jump off, run like mad, hold knoted pigtail, which sometimes slips. Lol
Once knotted, run like mad, jump on moving skidder(dangerous), put winch on hold, drive forward to tighten knot more. Freespool, drag mainline to dozer blade, put pigtail on dozer blade and chop off pigtail with double bitted axe, chisel and hammer, or whatever is handy, if you can't find your cable guilotine.

 

[northmanlogging]

Just get replaceable ferrules... takes less time then ****in about with knots and last longer too.

Or if you really need to tie it in a knot, use some large vice gribs, clamp em on the tail end after starting yer knot, hook a choker to a stump or what ever and reel er in slow, the vice grips with bind up against the slider and let the cable cinch tight, Done.

Though really the replaceable ferrules are like $30 and worth every penny, I keep 2 now one on deck and one in use. used to have a few more in smaller sizes for making chokers quick like but they have all been lost somewhere along the line.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Kudos on the vise grips, I left that part out. I have never used a ferrule, mostly because I never had or used one before.
I hear you though, nothing worse than losing a cable choker than losing a choker chain.
In my hayday I never pinned more than two chokers, mostly because I skidded big wood and the skid distance was short to the landing, plus it was nice when you could back up to every stump.
I'm sorry for not having any new pictures of interest.This one is from 04, never give an inch, and never say die.