Tell me what I am doing wrong

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asbury park

ArboristSite Member
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Dec 9, 2012
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Location
north carolina
I have a Stihl MS 250 that is about 5 years old. Bought it new. For the entire time I've had it I've had issues with not starting, stalling, bogging down all at the worst times. I've taken it to numerous Stihl shops around me and they all pretty much say the same thing - bad gas. For the past 3 years I have only bought motomix and run it dry if I know I won't be using it for a while. Get it tuned up, keep it sharp, etc. Still have issues.

Today I was out on our hunting land doing some clearing on small stuff and it kept stalling. This is pretty much what happens every time I use it. Very frustrating.

Here's what I use it for - cutting around 1-2 cords per year for our firepit, clearing 2-8 inch trees on the hunting property several days throughout the winter and a little in the summer. Aside from that I may use it a few more time per year to help out the neighbors.

Last year I considered selling it and upgrading to either a 271 or 261. I have a friend with a 271 and he loves it. No issues ever. Seems like it would fit my needs. Was thinking about the 261 because you know you are getting quality in the pro model, the power to weight is great and I'll probably never have to buy another saw again. The downside is it is way more expensive and probably way more saw than I need.

Bottom line, I'm tired of the issues with the 250. Am I doing something wrong? Should I just ditch it and get a new saw? If so, what fits my needs best?
 
If good compression, it sounds like carb adjustments. I would use canned fuel when storing. Running it dry can cause lines to dry rot. Try use canned in regular use to see if that helps


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Nothing wrong with a 250 for what your doing. Why not just try a new carb. They are cheap enough. Or you could rebuild it but for the price of a new one I prefer that route. Make sure you get the adjustable one. If it's been like this since day one it's been a problem since day one. Hard to believe multiple dealers couldn't set a carb.
 
Nothing wrong with a 250 for what your doing. Why not just try a new carb. They are cheap enough. Or you could rebuild it but for the price of a new one I prefer that route. Make sure you get the adjustable one. If it's been like this since day one it's been a problem since day one. Hard to believe multiple dealers couldn't set a carb.
So you think the carb has been a problem since day one or the saw has issues?

Where would you recommend getting a new carb from?
 
If you've had problems with it since new, something other than bad gas is to blame. Sounds like you've gone to dealers who don't know what in the Hell they're talking about. Sad thing is, that's quite common in the chainsaw industry.

Do you know someone (friend or co-worker) who owns a saw and knows their way around them? If not, start with fresh gas, new sparkplug, clean the air filter, and do a visual inspection of everything you can. Check all the fuel and vacuum lines to make sure they are in good repair. Check as many screws as possible to make sure they are tight and that nothing is loose.

I'm not a saw mechanic and I don't rebuild saws. I'm just presenting some common sense tips and advice. Probably a good chance your saw isn't tuned just right. Hopefully, someone else will come along and tell you how to go about that.

If after all this has been done and you're still in the same boat, trade or sell what you have and buy a MS-261 / 261 C-M. I have one and it rips thru wood. It pulls a 20" bar very well. You won't regret getting one.
 
For tuning a saw, I learned from watching Brad's videos. Mine got mess up from a neighbor offering to tune my saw. Never ran right till I tuned it myself. It takes some playing and time, but if you error on the rich side you should be safe and slowly find the sweet spot.
 
For tuning a saw, I learned from watching Brad's videos. Mine got mess up from a neighbor offering to tune my saw. Never ran right till I tuned it myself. It takes some playing and time, but if you error on the rich side you should be safe and slowly find the sweet spot.
Who is Brad and where can I find his videos?
 
Life is too short and there are millions of saws out there. I know you bought it new and that's probably why you still have it. Get rid of it. Is one of the shops around you maybe a little better then the rest? Or does one of them have a manager or particular employee you get along well with? Pick one person and stick with them. Buy the 261, don't look back.
 
Before buying a new carb, find someone in your area that knows how to tune a carb. It literally takes only a few minutes......if even that long.

I'd eliminate that issue before I'd buy a new carb or a new saw. ;)
Screwy carbs are like screwy women, as soon as you think they're right and are behaving properly, they start acting all crazy again.
Best to get a new carb, and a new women;)
 
Screwy carbs are like screwy women, as soon as you think they're right and are behaving properly, they start acting all crazy again.
Best to get a new carb, and a new women;)


I've rebuilt countless carbs on dirt bikes over the years. Also re-jetted tons of road bike carbs after installing after-market exhaust systems and/or different air filter systems.

Never had any issues or problems. Funny thing! Been around chainsaws for many, many years. I've yet to rebuild a saw carb.
 
I agree with replacing the carburetor as many have suggested. They aren't very expensive, and a I would imagine if you've taken the saw to three different stihl dealers, that at least one or all of them adjusted the needles to try to tune out the hesitation.
I would lean towards the accelerator pump being the issue. I see that problem quite often with the Zama carburetors.
It's a small plunger with an o-ring, that is actuated by the throttle shaft. It squirts a small amount of fuel out of the main nozzle to enrichen the intake charge, which helps acceleration.
If the bore gets galled or the o-ring has a cut in it, not only does it not pump fuel, it can leak air into the main nozzle feed, causing a lean condition.
The choke rods are prone to getting bent on that model, which can cause the choke butterfly to not fully close. This could be the issue with not starting.
No kidding. Lots of mechanics can only R&R parts anymore. Any diagnosis or adjustments require a machine to monitor the changes.
 
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