Topping a tree for solar panels

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Kottonwood

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Messages
487
Reaction score
45
Location
Louisville, CO
Ok, I got a phone call from a guy who says he has a 60 ft tall honey locust he wants "chopped down" to 25 ft because he is installing solar panels.

I basically explained to him that I don't top trees and why topping is bad. I said I would come over and check it out and see but that I would probably tell him that we would have to cut it down and plant something else.

I went and checked it out tonight and I tried to tell him that we should just cut it down, it would make some nice lumber and I could plant him an ornamental pear or crabapple. He was very insistent on keeping it because he had actually planted it when he was a kid. He had apparently lived in the same house since he was ten.

I think I can take it down to 35 ft by pushing the limits of a crown reduction. I could take it back pretty far leaving laterals just large enough to assume apical dominance. The wounds I would be creating would be approximately 2-5 inches in diameter.

I am going to meet there next week with the solar guys. I am bringing my laser pointer and I am going to explain exactly how far I would cut it back and they'll let me know if it'll work or not.

Wondering what anyone else would do if they were in this boat?
 
Ok, I got a phone call from a guy who says he has a 60 ft tall honey locust he wants "chopped down" to 25 ft because he is installing solar panels.

I basically explained to him that I don't top trees and why topping is bad. I said I would come over and check it out and see but that I would probably tell him that we would have to cut it down and plant something else.

I went and checked it out tonight and I tried to tell him that we should just cut it down, it would make some nice lumber and I could plant him an ornamental pear or crabapple. He was very insistent on keeping it because he had actually planted it when he was a kid. He had apparently lived in the same house since he was ten.

I think I can take it down to 35 ft by pushing the limits of a crown reduction. I could take it back pretty far leaving laterals just large enough to assume apical dominance. The wounds I would be creating would be approximately 2-5 inches in diameter.

I am going to meet there next week with the solar guys. I am bringing my laser pointer and I am going to explain exactly how far I would cut it back and they'll let me know if itll work or not.

Wondering what anyone else would do if they were in this boat?

Document your recommendation and explain the extra measures and ongoing care that will be required. Then do the job or someone else will. Explain that you may need to set-up irrigation during times of drought and mulch to conserve the trees available water. Look, sometimes a topped tree can be ok if done correctly, we can't be so rigid that we alienate clients and our fellow climbers for an occasional topping job when its necessary to obtain certain criteria like solar panels. Just my thoughts here, if he is informed an chooses to go forward, your documented, do the dern work and get paid friend. Jmo

Can it be pollarded then put on yearly or bi-yearly schedule to trim?
 
Last edited:
Document your recommendation and explain the extra measures and ongoing care that will be required. Then do the job or someone else will. Explain that you may need to set-up irrigation during times of drought and mulch to conserve the trees available water. Look, sometimes a topped tree can be ok if done correctly, we can't be so rigid that we alienate clients and our fellow climbers for an occasional topping job when its necessary to obtain certain criteria like solar panels. Just my thoughts here, if he is informed an chooses to go forward, your documented, do the dern work and get paid friend. Jmo

Can it be pollarded then put on three year schedule to trim?
what he said......
 
Solar PV vs trees is tricky. Likely your customer is envio aware but the installers see only the best location for maximum solar gain.
Shade is the enemy of PV units (unless expensive double wire jobs) any shade on one panel n all others in line suffer loss as well. Do your best to find the balance of tree vs. panels.

If your site is marginal latitude PV winter output is so low in comparison with a bit o no leaf tree limb shade, its not worthy to sox tree,, so,, if ya got a low weak winter sun dont cut tree.

Agree with others, top it or sox it, get the job don't let it go. Your advice to customer to solve or replant site is best if the numbers and tree health don't add up.
 
First choice is to put the panels elsewhere. Often they get one placement in mind and need help seeing how alternatives can work.

Second choice is to compromise as others have stated.
 
Offer more then one option with the bid, explaining the future maint. cost of a topping/radical reduction.

What would the cost of a remove/replace with a better species cost?
What would the return cycle be to clear resprout from shading the panels?
Can you get the wife involved with the selection of a suitable flowering tree?

I frequently clean out garden stores of fall overstocks at deep discounts, then I can do these installs of clump ornamental at a high margin hourly rate.
 
Shade is the enemy of PV units (unless expensive double wire jobs) any shade on one panel n all others in line suffer loss as well. Do your best to find the balance of tree vs. panels.

Shade is the enemy for sure..

But do not need to worry about shade on one panel with newer technology/inverters out there today. Only the shaded panel will suffer output loss (now if using older high voltage DC inverter technology then what you said still applies as panels in series).
 
Thanks for all the opinions.

I will update with what the final outcome is going to be once I talk to the solar panel guys.

I told the guy no matter what we do if he keeps the tree there is going to be some PHC needed as well as trimming every 2-5 yrs.

I have thought about pollarding, I have never done it before does anyone have any experience with it? I am not sure how a honey locust would take to it. It is a fairly pest and disease resistant tree so I that's a good start. It is also not a fast grower so every three years should be fine for pruning.

Does anyone have any experience using plant growth inhibitors? I was also thinking that this may be a good opportunity to try something like that.
 
Thanks for all the opinions.

I will update with what the final outcome is going to be once I talk to the solar panel guys.

I told the guy no matter what we do if he keeps the tree there is going to be some PHC needed as well as trimming every 2-5 yrs.

I have thought about pollarding, I have never done it before does anyone have any experience with it? I am not sure how a honey locust would take to it. It is a fairly pest and disease resistant tree so I that's a good start. It is also not a fast grower so every three years should be fine for pruning.

Does anyone have any experience using plant growth inhibitors? I was also thinking that this may be a good opportunity to try something like that.

Years ago I done injections with regulators to control growth under power lines and since forgot all I knew about it. I do seem to remember the process making bad spots in the base bark. I am certain today there are much better ways than we had back then.


Pollarding actually new growth is better done annual or bi-annual. I think after the heads have formed 3 years would work but initially 1-2 years is best. I have done some for power when the customer would not allow removal. Start out by creating the shape you want by hard pruning to desired shape then taking suckers back to head without cutting into head better to leave small stubs than to cut into the forming pods. It is a long time commitment but if he wants the tree it is likely the best option here and definitely will give you return work.

I had previously said three and was wrong going past two years can cause harm by not encouraging re-growth. I get my regimens mixed up at times.
 
Last edited:
I have thought about pollarding, I have never done it before does anyone have any experience with it? I am not sure how a honey locust would take to it. It is a fairly pest and disease resistant tree so I that's a good start. It is also not a fast grower so every three years should be fine for pruning.

I do a little pollarding, I have seen success on 3-4 year cycles on some fast growers.

Since honey locust compartmentalizes well, and sprouts readily it is a good candidate for the treatment. Problems I have seen are nectria canker and a burst in the populations of both plantbug and mites. I am sure it is the common problem of succulent growth having thinner cell walls and lower levels of phyto-toxins.

Nectria_galligena2.jpg
 
Heavy reduction as well as you can do.

Keep your maintenance pruning cycle as planned.

Try a PBZ root soak application to help manage shoot regrowth
 
Back
Top