Tree Cavity

[HmOwner]

Question:
From my research, it seems like I only have two options: 1) leave it alone or 2) cut the tree down. Is it possible to tell from the pictures whether the decay has progressed too far, or should I have an expert come take a look? The tree wouldn't fall on any property (cars, house). But, I wouldn't want it to fall on anyone.

Backstory and details:
My tree had a cavity with a shell of wood partially covering it. The tree pros that did some maintenance on other trees recommended I chisel it out so that the cavity might be able to close over. I pulled off that shell and cleaned out the decaying matter. I know the recommendation is to be very gentle when cleaning out a cavity. Though, I probably could have been a little more careful. It was much deeper than I expected. It was filled with what seems like clay soil. Not sure if that was decayed wood or if the ants are bringing soil into the cavity. I noticed some (carpenter?) ants inside. I may put some Terro ant traps in the cavity so that a critical mass of ants doesn't turn its attention to my house.

 

[BC WetCoast]

OK, I'll admit it, my bark ID can be a little sketchy. What kind of tree is it? How big is the tree.

Some trees, apple for instance, can handle a cavity like that for decades with little effect. Other species can't.

So the answer to your question at this point is "it depends".

 

[HmOwner]

I am not very good at identifying trees in general. The tee profession that looked at it said it was a Maple, but I forget which kind. Its about 15'-20'. Here is another picture of it. Note the temporary stub cut that I made from the ground before climbing up and fixing it.

 

[BC WetCoast]

It appears to be a silver maple, a species that is prone to breakage and failure. If you really like it, you need to prune it hard and regularly to keep it relatively small. Most on this board will recommend you remove it and replace it with a tree that will have more aesthetic appeal when it gets larger.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Those co-doms are looking sketchy,
Jeff

 

[ATH]

Those co-doms are looking sketchy,
Jeff

This. Even without that cavity, I don't like the tree for the long-term.

That doesn't mean there isn't a good +/- 10 years in it. One thought would be to keep it for a few more years and get out of it what you can. The other thought is: if you know it is a short-timer, why not just replace it so you will have a really nice new tree in 10 years. That comes down to your preference.

 

[Oldmaple]

I agree with ATH. The tree is not a good candidate for long term due to the structure (double stem). I'm not too concerned about the cavity on a tree that size, just keep the canopy thinned to reduce the load on the weak part.

 

[Jason Douglas]

Agreed on previous posts.

Planting soon means a more significant tree later.

 

[HmOwner]

Thanks guys. Despite my limited expertise, I agree. I will probably squeeze a little more time out of it by pruning. Will give me some practice with my 33' ATSS pole saw without worrying too much about botching cuts. It's a busy time of year for me, and I need time to research what tree to replace with (suggestions welcomed) and how to plant a tree.

 

[treeseer]

Can you post a pic showing the whole tree? Neither hollow or codom or species is any reason to sell this tree short.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Thanks guys. Despite my limited expertise, I agree. I will probably squeeze a little more time out of it by pruning. Will give me some practice with my 33' ATSS pole saw without worrying too much about botching cuts. It's a busy time of year for me, and I need time to research what tree to replace with (suggestions welcomed) and how to plant a tree.

Here ya go,,
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=Crepe+Myrtle&hspart=att&hsimp=yhs-att_001

 

[BC WetCoast]

We like to recommend Styrax japonica. Keeps relatively small, has nice flowering and doesn't have a lot of insect and disease problems.

 

[Jed1124]

We like to recommend Styrax japonica. Keeps relatively small, has nice flowering and doesn't have a lot of insect and disease problems.

That would work well in the op's location of N.C. Do you guys Plant them in BC? They have a hell of a time getting established by me and often winter kill.

 

[treeseer]

Where in NC are you? I'm in Apex but get around the state a bit. And, there are MANY options beside leave it alone or replace it. In your research did you run across the attached?

 

[HmOwner]

I'm in Cary. I have a Crepe Myrtle in my back yard, and it is by far the most common tree in my neighborhood, along with Magnolias.

If/when I cut down the tree, how soon can I replant? Should I have someone aggressively grind the stump below ground?

 

[Toronado3800]

Blah on grinding. Cut the stump flush with the soil and you can plant as close to ot as you can dig a hole. To get the cut as low as possible spend fifteen minutes excavating some soil from around the base of the tree. No one likes to stick their chainsaw in the dirt.

The smaller your transplant generally the closer you can get but I still like to stay a few feet from the trunk remnants depending on size.

Grinding larger meter across stumps leaves a strange bathtub of rotting wood and lower density soil for a couple years unless you excavate the soil and replace which still leaves you with a weird low density bathtub.

 

[HmOwner]

The current tree sits within a 5' diameter mulch bed surrounded by my lawn. So, I would like to replace with a tree at the exact same location. What would I need to do so that I could plant at the same location?

 

[Toronado3800]

EXACT SAME.... grind the stump. Shovel out the grindings mess. Replace the soil preferably with other soil from your yard. As a substitute I would use the cheapest top soil the hardware store has. Use one of them weighted rollers to mash down the new soil. Error on thd side of caution amd leave a small mound. Go buy a small new tree and plant it.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Buying top soil in bulk is much cheaper. Many places will sell it by the garbage can load.