Video: The bore-wing cut

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Ekka

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Approx 4 mins and 20mb in wmv

I haven't really gone into detail about this cut but I can tell you that 90% of climbers who come here and take on the dreaded in this town get stuck!

And this is the way out.

I've seen guys with 44's and 46's stuck and had to cut them out with another saw.

In this example we were only using a 020 but you'll get the picture.

www.palmtreeservices.com.au/video/borewing.wmv
 
Is that mostly just for blocking down small pieces? It'd seem that trying to wiggle a 6' block off the wings could be unpredictable. And if you're just blocking down small, firewood size pieces, can you just cut in and push them over the top, or is this for when you want to leave the block on the tree, and throw it down individually instead of just letting it drop? If that's the case, we could use that on our straight as trees around here.

Thanks Eric.

Get my email about the saws mate?

Jeff
 
Yeah

Sure did. It's a long weekend here and the blokes out somewhere.

Hey, this is for those bar clamping palms, you cannot push the saw through, it gets stuck in there!
 
Hi ekka, great tip! And good timing, we've got another palm to do tommorow.

Are you blocking that down on a non-wirecore flipline with that as your only attachment? That feels too sketchy for me, ok for running about the canopy pruning but not blocking down.

Trev
 
look more closely

Look below the flipline. See the climbing line chokered around the tree. It's then attached to the saddle in an SRT manner. This counts as being tied in twice.

Even crowning around, pruning, you really oughtta sink a flipline prior to the cut. Good, safe working habit

Glad to see that second tie-in, Ekka
 
That was Nathan up the tree not me.

He's TreeTx, came over to visit and that was his first palm he ever cut.

The bar getting stuck was something he didn't really experience before... or the bugs and crud.
 
Tree Machine said:
Look below the flipline. See the climbing line chokered around the tree. It's then attached to the saddle in an SRT manner. This counts as being tied in twice.

Even crowning around, pruning, you really oughtta sink a flipline prior to the cut. Good, safe working habit

Glad to see that second tie-in, Ekka

Ahh yes could see it hanging low earlier in the vid, well spotted. Yeah agreed second point of attachment when cutting is good practice, I were refering more to the second point(lanyard) being rope instead of wirecore. Im cool with that pruning but dont dig it blocking down a big trunk with a 046/066:chainsaw:

Ps Ekka, Palm went sweet today, told the boys ive been getting tips from the PALM SLAYER:clap:
 
Ahhh

Yes I use bore cuts often and I leave a small tab or "wing" for the wedge's to break instead of my saw. If anyone tries a bore-cut of anykind make sure you use the ATTACK part of your tip and not the KICK! (Just thought I would add that for anyone fresh with a saw.)
 
When I am table topping, or chunking down the trunk I use a similar cut to that. I'm sure other people use this cut, I just don't know the name of it.

I cut maybe 2/3 of the way through and then 1"-2" (depending on the situation) above the first i cut 2/3 of the way through in the opposite direction. Then I put the saw down and I am able to crack the wood off and push and or throw in the direction I want it to go.

I've never cut palms before, I was just wondering if this cut would work in palms or if there is a reason why it wouldn't. Any advantages of the bore-wing cut over the one I tried to describe. Just wondering that's all.

Thanks in advance

Beezer
 
Last edited:
That technique is called a snap cut or mismatch cut.

On palms with compression it doesn't work to good as the bar gets stuck.

By boring in the outside edge helps hold the cut open, thereby not allowing the palm to clamp the bar, then you just cut out the ends .... palms are a different "wood" if you can call it wood.
 
Thanks for all the GREAT! videos. I have only watched a few, but they are very informative. Keep em' comin'!!!
 
Ekka said:
That technique is called a snap cut or mismatch cut.

On palms with compression it doesn't work to good as the bar gets stuck.

By boring in the outside edge helps hold the cut open, thereby not allowing the palm to clamp the bar, then you just cut out the ends .... palms are a different "wood" if you can call it wood.

Great video Ekka. I watched it earlier and had the opportunity to try it on a couple cherry stumps close to the ground a couple weeks ago. They were against a fence so I had to cut above to the fence to drop them. Worked great - no pinched bar and they went where I planned. I was then able to flush cut the last two inches to ground level.

Incidentally, I met another Aussie legend a couple weeks ago - Ken Warby, fastest man on water - in his homemade jet powered boat, the Aussie Spirit - real impressive man and machine!
 
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