Wedge Stacking?

[137cc]

So I've been working a fire rehab job in California. And we have all these trainer's from the south that tell us how to fell the trees. They're basically GOL worshippers, its been incredibly frustrating working for them. But I've got a specific question about the way they tell us to wedge trees, specifically stacking wedges. I found this photo on the web, but it's the way they teach:

Please tell me I'm not only one that thinks this method of stacking wedges is garbage. You make two bore cuts directly below your back-cut.

 

[northmanlogging]

Um... are they on drugs?

granted i've done something similar when i had one set back hard, but its not my preferred choice.

Usually just get one or two going then stack the next two directly in the back cut, maybe with a bit of dirt in em to help keep em from slipping out, rinse repeat as necessary

 

[madjoe]

Um... are they on drugs?

granted i've done something similar when i had one set back hard, but its not my preferred choice.

Usually just get one or two going then stack the next two directly in the back cut, maybe with a bit of dirt in em to help keep em from slipping out, rinse repeat as necessary

+1. We have a guy that swears up and down this is the way to do it. Ive done like you said and do something like that cause I has one sit back and lean toward a barbed wire fence. I always drive one. Use saw dust and dirt and double stack. Then give each wedge a couple of licks to keep them going in somewhat evenly.

 

[2dogs]

+1. We have a guy that swears up and down this is the way to do it. Ive done like you said and do something like that cause I has one sit back and lean toward a barbed wire fence. I always drive one. Use saw dust and dirt and double stack. Then give each wedge a couple of licks to keep them going in somewhat evenly.

Same here.

 

[bitzer]

Thats total bs. It would be much harder to lift the tree that way. Instead of working with the tapers of two wedges you would be sort of fighting them. Also the added friction along with the wood having to break along the sides of the wedges would add a lot of unecessary effort.

 

[windthrown]

Meh. The same people tell me not to drop start my saws, but I do that anyway. Usually with the brake off. For wedges, I use this method:

 

[Gypo Logger]

Probably an unitentional dutchman, making for difficult wedging. If a tilted wedged tree won't fall just refall it.

 

[windthrown]

Probably an unitentional dutchman, making for difficult wedging. If a tilted wedged tree won't fall just refall it.

That is like.. way to practical. Please refer to page 346 in the GOL fallers manual and re-post your reply!

 

[Gypo Logger]

That is like.. way to practical. Please refer to page 346 in the GOL fallers manual and re-post your reply!

Lol, Henry, I prefer show boat falling, like trying to make a simple job look difficult. That way I can charge more.

 

[TreeswingerPerth]

I've seen people do that stacking stuff but I still don't get it . If I need a bit more lift I use a hi lift and normal wedges .
Never had a problem , sometimes use my gob / mouth cut as a wedge too . Till it splits !!!

 

[137cc]

Thats total bs. It would be much harder to lift the tree that way. Instead of working with the tapers of two wedges you would be sort of fighting them. Also the added friction along with the wood having to break along the sides of the wedges would add a lot of unecessary effort.

Couldn't agree more, but if you question this method they give you the pink slip. All while preaching safety! safety! safety!

 

[KiwiBro]

Horizontal stacking is what the cool kids are doing these days.

 

[nk14zp]

Meh. The same people tell me not to drop start my saws, but I do that anyway. Usually with the brake off. For wedges, I use this method:

View attachment 477812

You mean that's not how yer supposed to start them?

 

[madjoe]

Meh. The same people tell me not to drop start my saws, but I do that anyway. Usually with the brake off. For wedges, I use this method:

View attachment 477812

Same here. If my saw gets started, its usually drop started.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Thats total bs. It would be much harder to lift the tree that way. Instead of working with the tapers of two wedges you would be sort of fighting them. Also the added friction along with the wood having to break along the sides of the wedges would add a lot of unecessary effort.

My thoughts exactly.^^^

I do see the concept as another trick in 'your' arsonal though. We may find ourselves in a position where we need to overcome a Falling difficulty.
In a perfect world to me is having at least 2) 10" & 1) 12" K&H in pristine condition along with back ups in my backpack. These wedges have a very low coefficient of friction, yet they start if the tree sets back on your bar even in frozen hard & sort woods. They also doubble stack well without any compound.
They are sleek with rounded corners for side wedging on small diameter when safe to do so, as you know.
Having said that, I see the demo as "over comming a Falling difficulty" if that was there intention.
Apart from that said, The Faller have inadequate equipment.

If all wedges but 10" & 12" k&H were take off the shelves for a year, I wonder how many active interior fallers would ever buy an 8" wedge again? They are crap and make their lives difficult in comparison.

Moreover; all wedges the same is a bad combination. Hence: One 12". When you are lifting a lot of weight, Its the sleek 10's that will get it done.
I use my 12" to chase and release my 10" Just before I has chased out and its time to stack or doubble stack. You can't often release from the side with heavy weight in the event of "been caught with your pants down"
( same sized wedges like shown above)
So this is a faster trick than making a release wedge or windowing for axe head in the event of this happening and an addition to a doubble stack or stack +triple)... if you are almost there. One I do if my wedges have lost the leading taper is doubbe the saw Kerf.

But then again, what do I know I'm just a flipbook Faller, a living room cutter...lol

I must be a professional Faller because I learnt something today.

Thanks for sharing OP

Always hear someone out, We take what we can and we leave the rest behind.

To do this on a reg basis ? I'll check the;
"Are they high" box as well.

 

[137cc]

Always hear someone out, We take what we can and we leave the rest behind

The problem is if you question any of their methods you get fired. I'm all for learning new techniques to add to the bag of tricks. But all they bloat about is how their methods are superior and safer.
They also preach a boring back-cut on every tree.

 

[madhatte]

I've never bored to stack wedges. I have used split backcuts for small ones but that's not the same. Just stack 'em, dammit, and move on.

 

[bitzer]

Yep i carry a 10 and 2 12s. Usually the ten and one of the twelves has a good leading edge. The other twelve is chewed off. When I'm in timber where i might possibly hit the good wedge i get that blunt one in there asap and take the good one out. On occaision if a tree sits back and i haven't gotten a wedge in, i will bore the kerf and start a wedge. Once its open enough then get some along side. No need for mumbo jumbo. I rarely ever need more than 3 wedges. Small timber- back cut first, wedge, then face.

 

[bitzer]

Lol, Henry, I prefer show boat falling, like trying to make a simple job look difficult. That way I can charge more.

Lots of fiber on the stump for such a self- proclaimed high dollar wood cutter.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Lots of fiber on the stump for such a self- proclaimed high dollar wood cutter.

Lol, that fibre pull was the unitentional dutchmen fault. Lots less waste then your funking cuts. Which doesn't matter anyway, cause all your trees are dens for racoons. Lol