What are you building with your milled wood? merged

[Greenland South]

Cutting boards are always great to make and get plenty of use. A few yrs back I got large one for Christmas and I had to take my router to it in order to cut a channel for drippings. LOL.

Anyone interested in sharing shop pics? I work out of a spare bedroom with benchtop tools, it works for me for now. Congrats on new house

Cutting boards are always great to make and get plenty of use. A few yrs back I got large one for Christmas and I had to take my router to it in order to cut a channel for drippings. LOL.

Anyone interested in sharing shop pics? I work out of a spare bedroom with benchtop tools, it works for me for now. Congrats on new house

This is where I hang out through the long winters.

 

[jagchaser]

I see a lot of furniture makers right now using metal legs instead of wood. I never really liked the look of it, but I don't have a lathe yet. Im tempted to try a coffee table with metal legs or something. Have any of you tried that and where did you find your hardware?

 

[2treeornot2tree]

This is where I hang out through the long winters.
View attachment 384471 View attachment 384472

What for dust collector setup you got?

 

[TPA]

I see a lot of furniture makers right now using metal legs instead of wood. I never really liked the look of it, but I don't have a lathe yet. Im tempted to try a coffee table with metal legs or something. Have any of you tried that and where did you find your hardware?

To start out, you could try to adapt a used outdoor table base. Some of the older ones are pretty nice heavy solid stuff.

 

[Greenland South]

What for dust collector setup you got?

It is home made cyclone with a 1 1/2 HP blower that I scavenged off a surplus negative air unit. I also have an ambient air filter that was also a surplus negative air unit. The ambient air filter works really well, the cyclone not so much. Barely adequate would be my description. My plan is to rip it all out and get myself a commercialy built system and run my ducting under the floor(someday).

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Do you buy the metal duct work from a hvac distributor?

 

[Greenland South]

Do you buy the metal duct work from a hvac distributor?

When I first put it all together I used regular HVAC 4 & 6" smooth wall pipe. I was having a terrible time with sawdust settling out in the duct run and eventually clogging off. A friend of mine who has a HVAC and commercial insulating buisness was over one day and he looked at my system and shook his head. He offered to sell me a bunch of 4 & 6" spiral ducting for a pretty nice deal. It works much better. So I guess the answer to your question is yes.
As I mentioned in the last post, I plan on upgrading. When I do I'll have a company like Oneida design a proper collection system.

 

[pete_86]

Can a mod sticky this thread please? Maybe I overlooked it, but I had to do some searching to find this thread and the reason I mill is because I like building. Thanks! Also, it's been mentioned by others and I too would find a woodworking section added to our site a plus. I know they have those forums, similar to the gun section here. Some guys would just like staying on here and having a casual forum, not so dedicated as a specific gun formum or etc.

I posted this in the main milling also. I have a tip I'd like to share and that'd also be cool to have in a woodworking section. A spot for tips, ex how to clean glue, any struggles with, clamping, tricks to joint without a jointer. Also, maybe a tool section for areas where guys want to ask tool questions/show off new tools.

 

[pete_86]

So, I've been busy off an on inside my small make shift bedroom shop. I have a super cool gf that puts up with the occasional planer chips that track off into the living room now and than from foot traffic! My dust collection system is a shop vac, a dust pan, and garbage bags! LOL, so not a fancy shop here. She also puts up with the noise while watching her netflix shows on computer, says noise doesn't bother her or it's not that bad along with ear buds when it does get noisy.

So my previous projects were a canning jar bookcase for a large project and other small ones I tried to post here. I did build a book case for her sister and never got pics. I just finished one for my gf out of pine and cherry. Not a combination found much, I don't have any large clamps for glue ups nor did I want to use a lot of cherry for this project, I also liked that accent look of the dark and light mix normally found with walnut and maple, but in my stock pile I have 2/3 pine and 1/3 cherry and poplar that has too much character for this project.

So I used some nice pine, shelves aren't perfect with some streaking on one or two but books will cover this. I used a router and straight edge to joint and did best I could with my planer taking light cuts to get out any cupping. It's amazing how close I can get a board flat. It's not the cupping, but any twists along length that is reluctant to come out and that was present in the uprights. So not perfect, but I'm still learning and have a limited shop.

I dadoed with my chop saw, cleaned up with router. This time used ratchet straps to glue and hold the basic assembly straight. I had brad nailed previous bookcases to hold while glue dries. I dressed shelves with cherry on front to beef up shelves and dress up along with cherry on sides. Simple and easy, looks ok and functional so she's happy! I wanted to make some crown molding on table saw for this, but she seamed not to like the look. Was going with a flat piece with two 45s ripped on edge as I have no shaper to profile anything.

I sealed it with 3 coats of a linseed/varnish/mineral spirits thinned wipe on finish I made instead of buying a danish or teak oil. Very nice mix, finished with some furniture wax. I can't wait to see cherry darken, although I also like it the way it was and wasn't afraid to show a bit of sap wood. Kinda rustic cherry to go with knotty eastern pine.

My only fear is my shelves will one day fall out of one of these book cases I build. I'm not sure of how to do a floating design other than shelf pins or nailing only front of a shelf while keeping whole base together. Time will tell, I sealed it up nicely and keep board lengths on shorter/narrower side. People talk of nice furniture self destructing.

Also I made a bandsaw box, these I'm going to make and sell in order to fund more tools and unfortunatly bills. The economy has been rough around here.

Bandsaw boxes are my new thing, I'm getting tired of bookcases, The bandsaw box stressed my lil 9" Delta even with the 1/8" blade but not bad. Main issue is I can't get the depth of box to a good size as I run out of height on the saw. So now, I had thought a jointer was my next tool but maybe a 14" band saw! I am probably going to try cutting the back seperatly so I can saw a deep drawer. Not sure, can only do so much before it's not an actual bandsaw box. I cut it on table saw which was bit scary but not bad using push sticks and keep blade about half deep through box. No OSS in my shop so hand sanding! Lot of work for something so simple, best part I only used about a 3' board and these things are plenty of fun.

 

[pete_86]

My next project is a BS box for my mom and sisters, I'm thinking a handy size to put recipe cards in and have by kitchen stove where it's handy! My shop experience consists of four yrs of high school class. I've done clocks, shelves, corbels, cutting boards, stools, aderondeck chairs, and small half circle side tables. As my shop and tools grow I plan on taking on more projects. Would like to do some cutting boards with inlays. My next big project is a blanket chest of cherry. Like most, the woodworking gives me something to do. Anyone looking to get into it should do so, lots of benchtop tools these days. My planer is a lunch box planer and lots of techniques to learn to get around not having a tool. I use my carpentry elec hand planer to get most of the excessive cup out of ends of a board and than plane down. Works nicely, I made a jig for my table saw to get easy straight edges. Even so I'm looking forward to a jointer but for any lurkers wanting to jump into it, take the plunge. What's killing me is price of clamps. Even pipe clamps are expensive, gotta buy the pipe!

 

[Fundyheather]

Log Steambath/compost toilet using an eastern European corner joint with spikes and foam sill gasket chinking

 

[BobL]

When I first put it all together I used regular HVAC 4 & 6" smooth wall pipe. I was having a terrible time with sawdust settling out in the duct run and eventually clogging off. A friend of mine who has a HVAC and commercial insulating buisness was over one day and he looked at my system and shook his head. He offered to sell me a bunch of 4 & 6" spiral ducting for a pretty nice deal. It works much better. So I guess the answer to your question is yes.
As I mentioned in the last post, I plan on upgrading. When I do I'll have a company like Oneida design a proper collection system.

FWIW one of the things I did in my day job before I retired was design and build ultra clean dust free laboratories. oOver 35 years I learned much more about dust and moving and filtering air than is ever going to be needed in a woodshop but the principles and ideas can be applied to all manner of wood and metal working dust collection. Since I retired I have studied the movement of dust in home shops in detail using air flow meters, pressure monitors, and dust particle counters, and have posted most of this on the Aussie woodworkers dust forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=200 - I post there under the same user name) and have given presentations to wood working clubs, provided free advice to dozens of woodies setting up dust extraction systems etc. If anyone on this forum needs advice about managing wood dust then I am happy to help out

In my 480 sq ft home shop I use a 3HP twin bag dust extractor located outside in a sound proof enclosure. My dust testing of some 20 home shops has shown that all dust extractors and vacuum cleaners leak so the only way to ensure that fine dust doesn't hang around in a shop is to put them outside. I realise this does not help folks in cold climates who want to retain their heated air. Where I live the opposite applies in summer but I get around this in another way. I use under floor ducting to my table saw which is in the middle of the shop and the rest os overhead - ducting that lays on the floor is not only a nuisance but dangerous.

My ducting system uses 6" diameter mainly PVC storm water piping and some 6" galv pipe. The notion that pvc can cause fires is complete bunkum as the physics of the situation is such that electrical sparks cannot happen inside plastic pipes. THE ONLY WAY that anywhere near the claimed flow rates given by dust collector manufacturers can be obtained is to use 6" ducting. 4" ducting can never move more than around 400 CFM using conventional dust extractors whereas 6: can move about 1250 CFM. I have tested a number of shop dust extractors and they can only typically move about half the air that they claim.

Even after all this, the "elephants in the corners" are the machines themselves as attaching a 6" duct to a 4" duct port on a machine is a complete waste of time. Only some very high end machines come with the 6" duct posts that support the high flows needed. If a machine has only 4" dust ports then 3 (yes THREE) of these are needed to make use of a 6" duct. Most machines are seriously choked and do not allow sufficient air into them to remove the fine dust from the air around a machine.

I also have an 800 CFM 99.997% efficient at 0.3 micron clean air lab grade scrubber but my regular DC system works well enough that I hardly ever use it.

For metal working I use small all metal fume hood that has an unrestricted squirrel cage fan that can draw up to 2600 CFM (yes I measured this myself), plus an additional 1300 CFM extractor in the ceiling for when I use my gas powered forge.

For those that are interested in all this I recommend reading Bill Pentz website on dust extraction (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm). Bill is a bit of a zealot but I have found little on his website that I disagree with

 

[Todd Peterson]

Used the aspen that I milled early last summer for the tops on these.

 

[steve easy]

A lucky one year old is the new owner of my little shed. Was a little nervous of how it would shift, digger driver did a great job of walking it up drive in background, made it up there without any movement in the joints at all.

 

[betterbuilt]

FWIW one of the things I did in my day job before I retired was design and build ultra clean dust free laboratories. oOver 35 years I learned much more about dust and moving and filtering air than is ever going to be needed in a woodshop but the principles and ideas can be applied to all manner of wood and metal working dust collection. Since I retired I have studied the movement of dust in home shops in detail using air flow meters, pressure monitors, and dust particle counters, and have posted most of this on the Aussie woodworkers dust forum (http://www.woodworkforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=200 - I post there under the same user name) and have given presentations to wood working clubs, provided free advice to dozens of woodies setting up dust extraction systems etc. If anyone on this forum needs advice about managing wood dust then I am happy to help out

Nice read over at WWF. Lots of good info. Do you have any pictures of your outside DC shed? I eventually want to move mine outside. Cheers.

 

[BobL]

Nice read over at WWF. Lots of good info. Do you have any pictures of your outside DC shed? I eventually want to move mine outside. Cheers.

The DC enclosure is in the 4ft wide gap between the back of my shop and the back fence.
Because there is not a lot of room there it's hard to take goo photos so this is the best I have got.
The enclosure is 8ft high 2 ft deep and 6ft wide and is based on 3x2" pine stud frame.
The cladding of the walls and roof are a sandwich of (starting from the outside) external Colorbond metal sheeting (matches the rest of my shop exterior) then 1.25" thick melamine sheeting, 2" of rock wool insulation and then 5/8" MDF cladding. The doors used 3" of foam rubber instead of rock wool and don't have the inner layer of 5/8" MDF

Here the outside view


Here the door foam



The air has to be able to escape without letting out a lot of noise so I built in a M shaped baffle made out of 1" thick chipboard lined with 1.5" foam
Here's the cross section with the front panel removed


The net effect is that the sound pressure level at the neighbours fence is reduced to about the same as that from his pool pump (62 dB) and his pump runs day and night so I am happy to use it at night if I feel like it.
The neighbour's pool is just over the back fence so he has to look at the back of my shop which is why I went to such an effort to make it look good.

The noise level inside my shop from the air rushing around is around 70dB.

Here's s shot of one of the arms of my ducting system
The "Enc" label is the DC enclosure just outside the back door - door always kept shut when running the DC.
Everything is ducted using 6" diameter PVC pipe except for the the bandsaw which uses 3 x 4" flexies.


My lathe uses a bell mouth hood dust extraction which is much more efficient than any other sort of hood


I also have a time delay off switch on the DC system, When I switch off the DC I can I can flip it to delay (as determined by the rotary switch in the upper RH corner of the box)
The DC will run for that time and switch off automatically. This further vents any fine dust from the shed.
Standar delayed off time is 2 minute but if I have been making dust for a while I might up it to 10 minutes.


Here's my welding bay fume hood.
As you can see I also used it as a small spray booth.

 

[Nato]

jagchaser, here are some examples of some types of steel legs that I can make for tables. Thanks n8

 

[Daninvan]

Made this lamp out of some yellow cedar I milled a few years ago. It's about 29" tall and 10" square. No glue other than to hold in some wedges at the bottom. Surprisingly heavy. Took me two years of part-time effort.

It was quite a stretch for my woodworking skills!

 

[rarefish383]

I've got a little farm in West Virginia we use for hunting and a get a way from the real world, hide out. It has an old house trailer that works for the guys to hang out in. Last year we built a little 8x12' addition to get some elbow room. I got the idea to build a fold down table in the addition, it folds up out of the way, and folds down to seat 5. The boards were milled from a big White Pine that blew down in a storm. i think those were the first pics I posted here. A friend is a custom cabinet maker and he cut straight edges on my boards, then I glued two together to make a 34 inch wide table. Inlaid hinges in the topto fold up. put two hinges on a slab leg that swings down when the table is in use. heres a couple pics. Think I'll dig up the ole pic of milling the Pine too, Joe.

 

[Nato]

Made this lamp out of some yellow cedar I milled a few years ago. It's about 29" tall and 10" square. No glue other than to hold in some wedges at the bottom. Surprisingly heavy. Took me two years of part-time effort.

It was quite a stretch for my woodworking skills!

View attachment 414832

Hey daninvan what material did you use for your shade? That's a big lamp!, I like it. Thanks n8