What ripping chain??

[MervMaster]

I'm trying to figure out what ripping chain to buy. I will be using an Alaskan saw mill with a smaller chainsaw bar, probably 18 inches. Do I just buy the appropriate length chain by the link? Most ripping chain seems to be much longer than the bar I have available- upwards of 32". I'm not doing super heavy duty work, just building a table and benches and whatnot.


Also, what chain do you all prefer? Is one better or longer lived than the other??

Thanks.


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

 

[gemniii]

I'd suggest two or three loops of Woodland Pro from Bailey's, by the link, and appropriate sharpening tools.

 

[hamish]

You have alot of options......

Ripping chain is no faster then regular semi chisel chain, it just gives a lil smoother finish. So if you already have a loop or regular chain start out with what you have, its alot cheaper to use what you have already.

I suggest avoiding Laser or Granberg style ripping chain, the difference in the finish cut and the speed is barely noticeable but with all the different angles on the scoring and clearing cutters its a pain to sharpen.

Oregon, Carleton, Stihl, Woodland.....whatever they all work the same and sharpen near the same get whatever is locally available to you.

Happy Milling!

 

[mtngun]

I will be using an Alaskan saw mill with a smaller chainsaw bar, probably 18 inches. Do I just buy the appropriate length chain by the link?

18" bar will only cut 12" on an Alaskan.

Bailey's will make loops to your spec, or just regrind regular chain 40/5/0 and 7 degree rakers.

 

[BobL]

I'd go with regular chain and every time you sharpen you just pull it back a few degrees on the top plate filing angle until it reaches 10º.

If you decide to do it in one go remember you will have to serious drop the rakers to get back to a decent depth gauge filing angle

 

[Agoraphobia]

I noticed on my new Bailey's milling chain that the actual cutting angle on the side plate was almost flat. I know that on full chisel chain the corner is really important, less so on semi-chisel since there's no real corner just an arc. How far down the side plate needs to be sharp (to the depth of the depth gauges?)?

I know it is kind of inherent in the top plate cutting angle, but with a 0-15 degree top plate angle, that leaves the side cutter squared off or quite dull.

Also BobL, I noticed that my Granberg chain (and Bailey's/Carlton) have a "clearance angle" (the slope of the top plate when viewed on the level from the side) of about 6.5 degrees and Stihl RSLFK is about 9.5 degrees (I think my RSC is about that too). I have read that softer woods need more clearance (even more than the Stihl angle). Any speculation about clearance angles on milling applications?

Okay one more BobL,
If full chisel cuts faster than semi-chisel in general milling, but in general leaves a rougher finish, would they leave a similar finish at the same feed rate? Or is the corner on full chisel leaving the marks whereas the full arc of the semi chisel "corner" eases or smooths out the troughs?

Too much time to think, too little time in the wood!

 

[aquan8tor]

I will be using an Alaskan saw mill with a smaller chainsaw bar, probably 18 inches. Most ripping chain seems to be much longer than the bar I have available- upwards of 32". I'm not doing super heavy duty work, just building a table and benches and whatnot.

Milling is super heavy duty work for a small chainsaw. De-tune your saw, meaning lower the max rpm 500-1000 rpm or so, and let it idle for a few minutes after each cut to let it cool. Any ripping chain will work fine for your small project. Bailey's sells ripping chain by the drive link, so buying chain shouldn't be an issue. 10 degree is what I've used for years, works fine for me. Don't worry about the subtle differences between them--just get the standard one from Bailey's and have at it. Just remember--it is REALLY hard for a small saw to run at wide open throttle--max. rpm for a long period of time. I'm kind of going out on a limb here and assuming that you have a smaller homeowner grade chainsaw. No offense intended at all--they will get the job done, you just have to make sure that you treat them well so they can do it more than once.

 

[mtngun]

I noticed on my new Bailey's milling chain that the actual cutting angle on the side plate was almost flat. I know that on full chisel chain the corner is really important, less so on semi-chisel since there's no real corner just an arc. How far down the side plate needs to be sharp (to the depth of the depth gauges?)?

I know it is kind of inherent in the top plate cutting angle, but with a 0-15 degree top plate angle, that leaves the side cutter squared off or quite dull.

Also BobL, I noticed that my Granberg chain (and Bailey's/Carlton) have a "clearance angle" (the slope of the top plate when viewed on the level from the side) of about 6.5 degrees and Stihl RSLFK is about 9.5 degrees (I think my RSC is about that too).

Grind chain 40/5/0 and 7 degree rakers. Rakers negotiable.

Malloff version, 40/0/0

 

[darg49]

hi, I have a 18 inch stihl chainsaw, 026, and just got an Alaskan MK III Portable Lumber Mill. Had never even heard of different types of chains until I made this purchase. Does it really matter what chain I use when using the portable mill? How about the type of wood I use it on? I have plenty of access to pines, oaks, and sweetgum trees. Just looking for advice from more experienced individuals in using these tools. Thanks

 

[MervMaster]

hi, I have a 18 inch stihl chainsaw, 026, and just got an Alaskan MK III Portable Lumber Mill. Had never even heard of different types of chains until I made this purchase. Does it really matter what chain I use when using the portable mill? How about the type of wood I use it on? I have plenty of access to pines, oaks, and sweetgum trees. Just looking for advice from more experienced individuals in using these tools. Thanks

Ripping chain is basically standard chain with the top plate filed to 10degrees or so. Its generally accepted that it provides a smoother cut surface. It can also be less grabby In the wood, causing the chain to wander up and down in the cut less.

Beyond that, you can use standard chain. But you may want to consider a larger saw, in the 60-100 cc range if you're going to mill very much. An 026 will make for slow milling and a short life for your saw.

Check this thread for many useful tips.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...VWeaWQ37WTsyztkWQ&sig2=WY-grpmEAaVDEp7g0IgTPA

 

[JohnWayne]

hi, I have a 18 inch stihl chainsaw, 026, and just got an Alaskan MK III Portable Lumber Mill. Had never even heard of different types of chains until I made this purchase. Does it really matter what chain I use when using the portable mill? How about the type of wood I use it on? I have plenty of access to pines, oaks, and sweetgum trees. Just looking for advice from more experienced individuals in using these tools. Thanks

Like some of the others have said, just use what you have and get milling. When you sharpen through a chain and need some replacements, then start worrying about what to buy next for milling. I have been using full chisel in several brands and they all work fine. I have a few chains that I just keep bringing back a few degrees each heavy sharpening like BoBL was saying and use those for the cuts I want to come out the smoothest.
Use what you got and get milling!
(You'll be more happpy with the results from milling than from the results of fretting over what chain to buy )

 

[pa.hunter]

Woodland Pro from Bailey's works for me ripping chain smooth cuts

 

[SDB777]

Woodland Pro from Bailey's works for me ripping chain smooth cuts

If they ever get it in stock.....seems if you want ripping chain anymore, Bailey's isn't the best place to look.



Scott (go figure, chainsaw stuff not in stock) B