What size line are you guys using on your aux oilers?
- Thread starter Notomo
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betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
I think i use 5/16 or 3/8. You could get away with smaller. You might have a problem with flow in the winter depending on the oil you're using.
On my mills the line size is around 3/8.
But what is more important than the line is the size of the drip or bar holes which is 3/16 on one mill, 5/32 on another and I think its 1/8 on the small mill.
Max flow rate through an orifice is proportional to the radius to the forth power (r^4) so if you need lots of flow the size of the hole is very important.
Temperature effects on viscosity are typically inverse exponential but it's exponential on the Absolute temperature (Kelvin) not the Fahrenheit scale so the effect is not as great as changes in radius.
I typically run my oiler so I can see a small pool of oil on the bar. This means I usually refill the aux oiler tanks about half as often as the saw oil tanks.
But what is more important than the line is the size of the drip or bar holes which is 3/16 on one mill, 5/32 on another and I think its 1/8 on the small mill.
Max flow rate through an orifice is proportional to the radius to the forth power (r^4) so if you need lots of flow the size of the hole is very important.
Temperature effects on viscosity are typically inverse exponential but it's exponential on the Absolute temperature (Kelvin) not the Fahrenheit scale so the effect is not as great as changes in radius.
I typically run my oiler so I can see a small pool of oil on the bar. This means I usually refill the aux oiler tanks about half as often as the saw oil tanks.
Thanks for "clearing" that up for us Bob.
Also watch for thixotropic and pseudoplastic rheological phenomenon when running through the orifice!
Old Blue
Yellowbeard
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I like how bobl had to say "around 3/8" because the land of Oz (like the rest of the world other then the US and Liberia) uses the metric system.
I just was reading some more old posts about making aux oilers and found somone who said they use air hose breather vents, I just found some on amazon.com for just over 2 bucks shipped for 1/4" ones http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835T76M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER I will see if I can find them locally when I am in getting the other stuff but for 2 bucks don't think I can go wrong on those.
I am now thinking I really want a clear tank for the oil, and to save money I am going to try and just use something I have laying around and just silicone/epoxy a brass fitting onto the bottom for the valves. I also want to see if I can find needle valves locally I don't remember seeing them at the hardware store but maybe I missed them, I did not look at air hose fittings so maybe they have some in that area I just looked in plumbing.
I am now thinking I really want a clear tank for the oil, and to save money I am going to try and just use something I have laying around and just silicone/epoxy a brass fitting onto the bottom for the valves. I also want to see if I can find needle valves locally I don't remember seeing them at the hardware store but maybe I missed them, I did not look at air hose fittings so maybe they have some in that area I just looked in plumbing.
Presumably so you can see the oil level? This is not needed if you use a vertical sighting tube which is very easy to attach using black irrigation pipe fittings.
Like these http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nts-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-2#post-1509521
Irrigation pipe fittings another area I need to look at when I am at the hardware store. However I really don't care for the sight tube option all that much I would rather stick with KISS and avoid the extra connections, points of failure and snag hazards. I am sure it works fine for you guys but dunno just figure a clear container would be less hassle in the long run, and if its a free clear container all the better, I already found a few candidates in the recycle bin with thick walls that may work but if they don't I may end up going the sight tube route after all.
My 8 year old sight tubes are still working, have never leaked and never caught on anything.
Some clear plastics may react to oil and turn opaque over time.
BTW silicone/epoxy may also react with the oil and not seal all that well if that is all you rely on to make the connection. Epoxy also does not like vibe if the container is flexible. A physical connection e.g. threaded connections that screw firmly into or against the container work better,
Ya I didn't mean to say there is anything wrong with sight tubes I would just prefer not to use them if I don't have to. Knowing me I would probably have problems with them but thanks for that info.
I did decide to not use epoxy/silicone I ended up getting a bulkhead fitting which will work really nice even if the container goes to crap I can just drill a hole in another and move it over to the new one since the bulkhead fitting can be taken off and put back on without much hassle. Funny I didn't think of it before I even have a few laying around from an aquaponics project, there to big but I bought a 1/2 female threaded one for like 8 bucks at the hardware store, I also found a compression fitting needle valve and another on off valve, I ended up ordering the breather vent I could not find it locally, and it came today so now I have everything to put one together. I also got the last part I needed for my chainsaw. So all I need to do now is build something to get the logs up off the ground and I will be ready to mill. I am thinking of just using blocks and railroads ties to make a milling platform to get the log up to a comfortable sloped height, I think I may try to do it right next to a sidehill I have to so I can drag the logs up the hill then just roll them onto the platform that way I don't have to lift them with equipment.
Good idea. but don't make a level platform, use the natural slope to advantage and mill the logs the down slope. That way you should not have to pus much or at ll
Yup the one end I plan to have lower, but the slope will not be the high point, since then you would have to bend down at the start of the log or cut a trench into the slope to walk in.
