what temp should a woodstove be run at?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

husky455rancher

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
2,905
Reaction score
946
Location
connecticut
i just installed a woodstove this past weekend its an old shenandoah. seems to be a great stove. i have a tempature probe i can use to take a reading of the stove. whats the ideal tempos to keep a stove at to keep the creosote down?

i been running my insert for the last 2 years and i never measured the temp as i just looked at the fire through the glass. so im looking for a good way to judge the fire inside the woodstove.
 
Below 250* in the stovepipe is the danger zone for creosote buildup. When my stove is running about 350-400 at the outlet it is making good heat. At 250 it is doing OK but not quite keeping up with the need for heat, not unless it is warming up outside.

Keep in mind that the temp inside the pipe will be higher than the surface temp, A probe will be more acurate than a surface mount like I use.
 
huskey are you the one that just installed the R77? We burned with that one for 10/15 years or so. Seemed to me we burned right around 400 but first thing every morning one of us would crank it into the red zone for a good 3 minutes or so.
 
I have a magnetic condor temp gauge (made for the flue pipe) stuck on the front door. it shows the sweet spot for best combustion and least creasote being 225*-475*...I try to run between 350*-450*... My snap stat won't come on below 300*.
 
ok thanks guys i was figuring in the 400+ range but lower is good.

yeah i just installed the r-76 and i like it so far. i took the door off the cellar and im trying to see if i can effectivly heat the whole house with it and not use the insert. granted i can easily use the insert if need be and also i can use it to get the temp up. its not cold out right now but the last 2 days were great the house has been almost totally heated evenly. not like the insert where the kitchen and kids room are cold. oh not to mention the nice warm floors:)

im not sure if this is gonna use more wood than the insert, i would think it would. but if it does so far it seems worth it.
 
according to rutland chimney thermometer 600 degrees is over the moderate range... this little thermometer is great to monitor your stove / furnace performance..DW :)
 
ok thanks guys i was figuring in the 400+ range but lower is good.

yeah i just installed the r-76 and i like it so far. i took the door off the cellar and im trying to see if i can effectivly heat the whole house with it and not use the insert. granted i can easily use the insert if need be and also i can use it to get the temp up. its not cold out right now but the last 2 days were great the house has been almost totally heated evenly. not like the insert where the kitchen and kids room are cold. oh not to mention the nice warm floors:)

im not sure if this is gonna use more wood than the insert, i would think it would. but if it does so far it seems worth it.

Too cold and you will build creosote.

Maybe I am not understanding your understanding?

Just thought I would mention it in case you have this backwards, 'nevermind' if you got it. :cheers:
 
300-400 would be a good range to keep it at. My woodstove has a temp gauge that gives the catalyst temp and I normally keep that between 800-1,000 degrees and I dont get much buildup. Keep in mind though, thats catalyst temp, not the temp of the stovepipe.
My brother has a thermometer that sticks to the stovepipe on his stove and the, "operating" range thats marked on the gauge is 400-600 degrees.
 
every stove is a bit different... tale of the tape is to look at how much smoke your stove is emitting after it reaches operating temps.

all stoves will smoke while starting up. if your stove is emitting little to no smoke. it's burning clean.

how hot your chimney operates depends upon how efficient your heat exchanger works. for instance my firebox is 12 cubic feet surrounded by a hollow structure made of 1/4in steel. with a forced air blowing across at high CPM.

it's got one of the most efficient heat exchanger of any wood stove. simply due to the massive heat exchange area.

my exhaust temps will run much cooler than a stove with a less efficient heat exchanger.

soooo it really depends upon the individual stove.
 
every stove is a bit different... tale of the tape is to look at how much smoke your stove is emitting after it reaches operating temps.

all stoves will smoke while starting up. if your stove is emitting little to no smoke. it's burning clean.



well thats good yesterday i was outside quite a bit and it was set with the damper almost closed and it wasnt smoking at all. i even got the extention ladder and measured the chimney so i can make a better cap while the stov and the insert were running. the insert was smoking just a bit but i was letting it die out.
 
every stove is a bit different... tale of the tape is to look at how much smoke your stove is emitting after it reaches operating temps.

all stoves will smoke while starting up. if your stove is emitting little to no smoke. it's burning clean.

how hot your chimney operates depends upon how efficient your heat exchanger works. for instance my firebox is 12 cubic feet surrounded by a hollow structure made of 1/4in steel. with a forced air blowing across at high CPM.

it's got one of the most efficient heat exchanger of any wood stove. simply due to the massive heat exchange area.

my exhaust temps will run much cooler than a stove with a less efficient heat exchanger.

soooo it really depends upon the individual stove.

:agree2: DW
 
every stove is a bit different... tale of the tape is to look at how much smoke your stove is emitting after it reaches operating temps.

all stoves will smoke while starting up. if your stove is emitting little to no smoke. it's burning clean.



well thats good yesterday i was outside quite a bit and it was set with the damper almost closed and it wasnt smoking at all. i even got the extention ladder and measured the chimney so i can make a better cap while the stov and the insert were running. the insert was smoking just a bit but i was letting it die out.



check this out DW

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(mmppgq55msvydwuf4tqvd0yj)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=42578
 
having a thermometer is a really good idea.
will tell you exactly what your stove is doing.

I use a mini-temp IR temp gun with laser.
what I'm interested most is outlet air temps.

where you measure your stove could be completely different.
 
i run mine almost wide open or 3/4 all the time, mostly becuase it is actually a little small for my house, but my house is also really drafty, so maintaining heat is a challange inside during the winter. so i generally keep it running at about 400-500* under 300 and the fire struggles. i shut the damper almost all the way at around 9 at night, and wake up with enough coals to get it going again with some ash door .

I'm still learning with this stove, but for right now, it works for me

i have a jotul 400 and its recommended range is 400-600*
 

Latest posts

Back
Top