What's The Best OWB?

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Yeah, I was thinking the only ones making a higher profit margin is the petroleum companies. I know I'm not making a higher profit margin than I was in the 80's. Of course, I'm sure leon will tell me I'm in the wrong business, or doing what I do wrong, or not making a quality product, or... or... or. :msp_rolleyes:

I think the same thing every time I read one of his posts. If he put half the effort into doing something constructive instead of ridiculing everything except his own opinions, he might actually achieve something.

If you present yourself in person the same way you do here, they might have told you a lie just so you'd say 'no' and they could get out of there. And if by chance you took their bait and went for the new burners or boilers, they'd make their time with you worth their effort.

Just because someone doesn't want to install a 2 or 5 or 10 thousand gallon water tank doesn't make the system they DO want any less valid. Some people WANT efficiency, some could care less. And as far as the boilerplate issue goes, yeah, it's probably better than mild steel. But if was all that great, old steam locomotives would never have had to have been rebuilt. Or repaired for that matter. And there were plenty of boiler repair people in the heyday of the steam engine.

I, for one, found RiverRocket's view of the Central Boiler over the Hawken to be pretty interesting. I will never own a Central because I have a hang-up about square fireboxes, but that doesn't mean it's not a great boiler that he'll probably get at least 20 years out of with minimal maintenance. And his point about it being welded on both sides was a valid point. Your condescending reply to him was, "You cannot tell that a boiler is better built unless you can see the interior welds." How do you know he DIDN'T see the interior welds? I HAVE seen the inside and outside of the Hawken boilers and know they are NOT welded on both sides. If I end up with a Hawken, mine WILL be welded on both sides because I'll do it myself. But that's my choice.

RiverRocket; I think you'll be happy with the Central. 3 of my friends have them and one is going on 17 years of 9 months a year service and he just replaced a pump this past winter. That's the only thing he's ever done to it. As for plumbing yours directly into the baseboard, I wouldn't do that myself. I'd rather heat the water in the existing boiler and if something ever happens to your Central, you'll have the option of using your pre-existing boiler as a backup.

I have friends with the Hawken Boilers and the're very happy with them, No problems..
Central Boiler just Implemented a $1,000 rebate special( went into effect Yesterday)
so that influenced my decision a little, but not totally..
The main two factors why I chose the Central Boiler over the Hawken
#1 The heat tubes in the Hawken run horizontally and are a pain to clean (Central Boiler run Vertically)
#2 The Central Boiler Welds (Both sides)
I like the new Patented charge tube on the Central Boiler
I've decided to use the heat exchanger instead of hooking up directly..I Like the idea of keeping my house boiler system isolated from the OWB

Hawken,Central Boiler and Heatmor are the only stoves that i could find within 60/miles
I was looking for a boiler with a round fire box, but couldn't find one...The bigger (Non gassifier) Hawkens have a round fire box, but the smaller units didn't
Thank You for all of the advice and help
 
I just ordered my CB two weeks ago, and now the offer $1000 rebate???? Somebody want to volunteer to kick me in the nuts!
 
The bigger (Non gassifier) Hawkens have a round fire box, but the smaller units didn't
I realized that after I posted!
duhhh.gif
 
Maybe you could still get the rebate..call and raise hell
My dealer said it's the best promotion he's ever seen them run..
I almost bought mine last week...I'm glad i waited..I'm usually very impatient
I also found a guy that had a bunch of left over thermoplex pipe that he told me he would sell me for 5 bucks a foot
Since you just ordered it a couple weeks ago maybe they will still give you the rebate..worth a try..
 
OWB et. al.

Yeah, I was thinking the only ones making a higher profit margin is the petroleum companies. I know I'm not making a higher profit margin than I was in the 80's. Of course, I'm sure leon will tell me I'm in the wrong business, or doing what I do wrong, or not making a quality product, or... or... or. :msp_rolleyes:

I think the same thing every time I read one of his posts. If he put half the effort into doing something constructive instead of ridiculing everything except his own opinions, he might actually achieve something.

If you present yourself in person the same way you do here, they might have told you a lie just so you'd say 'no' and they could get out of there. And if by chance you took their bait and went for the new burners or boilers, they'd make their time with you worth their effort.

Just because someone doesn't want to install a 2 or 5 or 10 thousand gallon water tank doesn't make the system they DO want any less valid. Some people WANT efficiency, some could care less. And as far as the boilerplate issue goes, yeah, it's probably better than mild steel. But if was all that great, old steam locomotives would never have had to have been rebuilt. Or repaired for that matter. And there were plenty of boiler repair people in the heyday of the steam engine.

I, for one, found RiverRocket's view of the Central Boiler over the Hawken to be pretty interesting. I will never own a Central because I have a hang-up about square fireboxes, but that doesn't mean it's not a great boiler that he'll probably get at least 20 years out of with minimal maintenance. And his point about it being welded on both sides was a valid point. Your condescending reply to him was, "You cannot tell that a boiler is better built unless you can see the interior welds." How do you know he DIDN'T see the interior welds? I HAVE seen the inside and outside of the Hawken boilers and know they are NOT welded on both sides. If I end up with a Hawken, mine WILL be welded on both sides because I'll do it myself. But that's my choice.

RiverRocket; I think you'll be happy with the Central. 3 of my friends have them and one is going on 17 years of 9 months a year service and he just replaced a pump this past winter. That's the only thing he's ever done to it. As for plumbing yours directly into the baseboard, I wouldn't do that myself. I'd rather heat the water in the existing boiler and if something ever happens to your Central, you'll have the option of using your pre-existing boiler as a backup.

_______________________________________________________________________


Every business type is different and every business is affected by its location and the need for its service as well as the competition in the same business sector and its location.

Offering what is sensed as ridicule versus offering ones gained knowledge after burning wood and coal after 31 years I think are two different things.

AS far as my issues with my oil supplier are concerned it is a case of my being a 35 yeat customer paying my oil budget bills every month on time with no interuptions in payment for those 35 years and after this last time I have decided that I will no longer be a customer of thiers due to the extremely poor service and terminations of long term employees TO MAINTAIN PROFIT MARGINS which thay have every right to do to maintain thier business model and operate by the parent corporations operating manual.


Yes some folks want efficiency and some dont worry about it because they have an adequate wood supply. There heating needs are valid and what they do with their money is thier personal business. I just hate to see people get into terrible fix in heating a home with these things.

Simple physics and the laws of hydrodynamics favor stored heat energy and always have. Puliverised coal power plants reuse and recirculate thier 1,001 degree de-aerated water supply twice before discharging it back into a water course at 52 degress to conform to the surface water temperature.



NOW as far as steam locomotives are concerned the steam generated is used at higher pressures requiring the boiler vessel and boiler fire tubes to be tested to a certain pressure to be certified as safe for use. These boilers were riveted and gasketed by journeyman boiler makers prior to gas welding of them as well with thses men and women having many many years of building, repairing and rebuilding experience with regard to steam boilers on locomotives.

About steam locomotives:

The water supply for a steam locomotive is limited by the locomotive boiler size and the load placed upon the locomotive by the frieght or passenger loads as well as ruling grades

Boiler water is used up and exhausted to atmosphere when making steam to power the pistons that push the drivers and in turn operate the recipricating air pumps that push combustion air into the hearth of the boiler to make steam that is used to provide heat for the train consists passenger, lounge, dining, sleep and mail cars. If the locomotive had coal stokers the steam also powered the gearing that powered the motors that rotate the augers feeding the boiler.

The water also has to be replenished because it is used up quickly and it must
also be of adequate volume to fill the locomotives water tank behind the coal tender.

The stresses on the fire box and firetubes as well as the rivets which connect the boiler plate to make the reservoir and firebox are under tremendous radial stresses while operating due to the heat loading, cold water condensate recirculation back to the boiler and generation of steam to power the locomotive and provide steam for heating purposes.

A hydronic heating system whether closed or open uses much less water than a steam boiler that is exhausting its steam to atmosphere and it requires wateer more often because the duty cycle is much heavier thana hydronic heating system.


As far as the welds go how do you expect to see the interior welds between the firebox and the exterior walls of the reservoir without a fiber optic camera?
I certainly hope they place all thier weldments in a secure jig when welding the sheets
together. if they heated the steel it would make it easier to weld anyway with less heat stress.


A circular firebox has the advantage of using one continuous long weld and steel stays welded between the interior and exterior of the inner fire box and the exterior shell at a large number of locations surounding the inner fire box tube.



If I have offended you I offer a sincere apology.
 
seams that allot of people in my area put the stoves in a metal carport type structure? Is that something i should consider ?

Missed this question the first time I read this thread. My short answer to you is.

HELL YES!!!!

That is the best thing you can do for yourself. Standing out in the blowing freezing rain loading the thing just blows.
Until you spend a year or two without, and then build a cover of any sort you really won't appreciate it.
 
As far as the welds go how do you expect to see the interior welds between the firebox and the exterior walls of the reservoir without a fiber optic camera?
Probably the same way I did; go to the factory and see one in the manufacturing process. Or look at the cut-a-way model they have on display. Or better yet, ask the sales person. If you can't feel comfortable or trust the person selling you a 5 or 10 thousand item, it's time to reconsider that company and product.
I certainly hope they place all thier weldments in a secure jig when welding the sheets together. if they heated the steel it would make it easier to weld anyway with less heat stress.
I don't know what Central does because I didn't get that involved with them after my preliminary search for a suitable manufacturer, but Hawken, P&M and Woodmaster all use automated welding procedures where the plate is rolled and welded in a rotary jig. Heating mild steel in preparation for welding offers no tangible benefits.
 
I have the P&M Optimizer 250- a gasser. It has 24 horizontal heat exchange tubes and 6 vertical tubes. I find the horizontal ones much much easier to clean. This unit only smokes a little when it first fires up, and more the longer the idle time. Other than that you have to strain your eyes to see any smoke at all when its running. I used nice and dry wood this year and only had to brush out the tubes 6 times - about 25-30 minutes of cleaning time total.

I don't want 1000's of gallons of stored water because I don't want to light a fire all the time. I lit one fire in October and it burned until the end of April. I also enjoy not carrying all kinds of wood into my basement. I further enjoyed not having to worry about any fire inside my house. I will spare you all a longer message full of big words and numbers to show how smart I am. My set up is what I like and it works for me.
 
Owb

Probably the same way I did; go to the factory and see one in the manufacturing process. Or look at the cut-a-way model they have on display. Or better yet, ask the sales person. If you can't feel comfortable or trust the person selling you a 5 or 10 thousand item, it's time to reconsider that company and product.
I don't know what Central does because I didn't get that involved with them after my preliminary search for a suitable manufacturer, but Hawken, P&M and Woodmaster all use automated welding procedures where the plate is rolled and welded in a rotary jig. Heating mild steel in preparation for welding offers no tangible benefits.






AS far as lighting fire after fire goes; adding firewood to an existing small
fire heating a large stored volume of water is no different than feeding
your gasser on a daily basis.


About preheating steel prior to welding:


The following is applicable to carbon and alloy steels;

Qouting directly from the Lincoln Electric home page.

Why is preheat sometimes required before welding?
Preheating the steel before welding slows the cooling rate
in the weld area.

This may be necessary to avoid cracking of the weld metal or
heat affected zone.

The need for preheat increases steel with steel thickness, weld restraint,
the carbon alloy content of the steel, and the diffusable hydrogen
of the weld metal. Preheat is commonly applied with fuel gas torches
or electrical resistance heating.


There was an excellent story on PBS several years ago titled "Superbridge"
if I remembered the title correctly describing a new cable supported bridge
crossing the Mississippi River near St. Louis, Missouri. They showed how the steel
beams for the bridge deck were contructed out of thick steel plates welded together make the top plate, the upright plate, and bottom plate of each together to make one of individual I beams for the
bridge deck. The steel plate was so large and thick I believe they used resistance heating to heat each sheet prior to welding the them together I believe but I do not remember exactly.


Its something worth watching.
 
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I know I am late to the thread but just wanted to say i just finished year 10 with my heatmor, love it, looked at a lot of them before i made my mind up as well. I liked the firebrick and ash auger to name a few deciding factors. have had no troubles at all, same pump, blower. new door hoses has been all i have done. gonna do a new door seal just because and an anode this year. We all have different things we like or dont. If you choose the central boiler im sure you will be happy. Hope you post pics of your install.
 
Owb

Leon, how thick is the steel on a typical owb? Preheat required?

I've build tons of trailers and have built several flatbeds, no preheat. I do a fair amount of welding, preheat, never yet.

Hello Cantoo,


From what I know of them its 1/4 inch to 1/2 in mild steel/stainless or boiler plate
My switzer has 1/4 boiler plate as it was tested and rated for steam heating at the
time I purchased it.

I know that you can still buy a boiler with half inch boiler
plate or could anyway from the Mahoning Outdoor Boiler folks.
I am unsure if they preheat their weldments when they are assembling
their boilers fireboxes.


I learned how to weld using 6024 welding 2 inch plate steel together
for a welding bench 35 years ago so that dates me a bit.


Its just like using a buzz box to warm up frozen pipes simply heating
by resistance and conducting heat from the positive side to the negative side
if your welder is set up for a negative ground only.


SO much of it is prep work grinding off rust and paint to bare metal for adequate conductivity to
maintain a molten weld puddle that it takes a lot of work-dont miss having your welding
rod stick to the work when you dont want it to for sure-hard on the eyes unless your
wearing cutting goggles under the shield.
 
I like the ideal of a OWB . I cut with a person that had one. last winter I put about 2 years worth of wood on my pile .An he has nothing left . Think I will stay inside furnace until this problem is over. Don't mind working hard at some point the need to work smart will kick in
 
I like the ideal of a OWB . I cut with a person that had one. last winter I put about 2 years worth of wood on my pile .An he has nothing left . Think I will stay inside furnace until this problem is over. Don't mind working hard at some point the need to work smart will kick in

I have an inside wood stove now, I'm putting in an OWB for the following reasons
#1) won't have to worry about a chimney fire burning my house down
#2) no more dirt,dust,bugs and smoke in the house
#3) I live on a farm and have all the wood i can burn

The newer OWB are allot more efficient than the older versions.
 
I have an inside wood stove now, I'm putting in an OWB for the following reasons
#1) won't have to worry about a chimney fire burning my house down
#2) no more dirt,dust,bugs and smoke in the house
#3) I live on a farm and have all the wood i can burn

The newer OWB are allot more efficient than the older versions.

Those are the reasons that I bought mine plus the biggest reason, I don't have to buy heating oil anymore. I don't exactly have a farm but I do tap maple trees and have 69 acres of land.
 
Leon, how thick is the steel on a typical owb? Preheat required?

I've build tons of trailers and have built several flatbeds, no preheat. I do a fair amount of welding, preheat, never yet.

I am going into my 33rd year as a certified welder, tested to the AWS B2.1:2000 standard. I also maintain certification by SAE for aerial lifting device welding and manufacturing. Not bragging but giving you a brief background. With that said, yes, you CAN preheat mild steel in preparation for welding, but it is not necessary. It DOES change the molecular structure somewhat in the Heat Affected Zone, (HAZ), no matter what the metal may be, but it doesn't necessarily make it easier or better in regards to welding. Where it IS necessary is in the harder varieties of steels. They make 'crayons', (for lack of a better word), that melt at different temperatures so that a welder can get a pretty accurate pre-heat temperature when it is needed. Most times preheating can be as little as 100 degrees, so it doesn't take much in some materials.

Something you and other welders that get into some serious projects like trailers and such might find interesting: what's more important than pre-heating, is knowing where, when and how to stop a weld bead. Again, it's not particularly important in an OWB, but seeing as you said you build trailers you might find it interesting, (if you don't know already), that a vertical weld on any truck frame is not a good thing. It's also fairly important on trailers that use structural steel as the mainframe component, but not as critical as on a hardened truck frame material. Mild steel has a yield value of 35,000psi while hardened truck frames generally have a yield strength between 60,000 and 110,000 psi. Welds on these materials should be performed by using 20 to 45 degree angles, never straight up and down. And most people don't realize that even the direction of grinding marks makes a difference when cleaning up a weld on truck frame. Grinding should always be performed so that the resulting grind marks are running in a horizontal plane with the frame rail. Welds that end before the full height of the frame section should be concluded with a 'dog-tail' to prevent cracking. And of course, pre & post-heating should be used when welding on any frame material over the value of 35,000 psi yield strength, (mild steel).
 
About this;


Even if you purchased the smallest Harmon wood and coal boiler
and purchased an insulated storage tank from New Horizons (490 Gallons)
you will be better off and have spent less money.

Buying a second tank will add another 490 gallons of storage for your heat load
and will give you over 1,000 gallons of water before batting an eyelash.

Once you buy it..................................... A lot of folks spend 2 or 3 seasons stuffing wood in them 25 cords one year and 22 the next and simply dont bother with it anymore and leave them out as lawn art.

IF YOU Buy one of these things fill it better than half full of high silica firebrick to increase the thermal mass to store and radiate heat back into the water jacket.

You need storage more than fire box size in any case.

Adding a second tank for storage???? Would the second tank be for domestic Hot water??
I'm a little unclear of how to hook up to heat my domestic hot water.. the oil furnace i have now heats my hot water...I don't have a separate hot water tank...Could i just use an electric hot water tank for storage?
All of the illustrations I've seen are showing the OWB plumed into a separate Tank...
 
Owb

Adding a second tank for storage???? Would the second tank be for domestic Hot water??
I'm a little unclear of how to hook up to heat my domestic hot water.. the oil furnace I have now heats my hot water...I don't have a separate hot water tank...Could I just use an electric hot water tank for storage?
All of the illustrations I've seen are showing the OWB plumed into a separate tank...

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

There is no reason you cannot leave the domestic hot water loop
hooked up in the oil boiler as long as both boilers are tied in
together for hydronic heat.

Or you could use a separate tank with a copper loop in it for domestic hot
water like the HSTarm storage tanks but as you have a domestic loop through
the oil boiler you fo not have to fo that.


Not trying to name drop, but have you looked at the Garn brand of wood boilers?
Garn has two models for the homeowner and one sized for the commercial user.

They can be installed in an insulated garage, shed, lean to etc. I would imagine they could be
placed in a hoop shed and wrapped in fiberglass insulation kept in place with chicken wire as is done sometimes as long as it was tall enough or if an insulated box frame was placed
over it that would allow access with sliding barn door. Wrapping it in fiberglass insulation
and using chicken wire to hold the insulation would be less expensive if you used a hoop shed for it.

The videos that the Garn folks have published are extremely informative
as the owners use a couple of wheel barrow or cart loads a day according to the
testimonials by the Garn boiler Owners.

The Garn units use an induced draft circular combustion chamber in which the fire
passes through two sets of cast firebrick combustion chambers and then through
two fire tubes and then out through the horizontal flue.

The Garn units use either a custom ordered top flue or a standard horizontal flue
and the boilers have only steam as exhaust. I believe they have a six inch horizontal flue pipe.

They recommend that the horizontal flue pipe is terminated with a 90 degree elbow into a screened
barrel that has sand in the bottom of it to catch any sparks of course.


Disclaimer: I have no financial connection with the Garn Boiler folks in any way.
 
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

There is no reason you cannot leave the domestic hot water loop
hooked up in the oil boiler as long as both boilers are tied in
together for hydronic heat.

Or you could use a separate tank with a copper loop in it for domestic hot
water like the HSTarm storage tanks but as you have a domestic loop through
the oil boiler you fo not have to fo that.


Not trying to name drop, but have you looked at the Garn brand of wood boilers?
Garn has two models for the homeowner and one sized for the commercial user.

They can be installed in an insulated garage, shed, lean to etc. I would imagine they could be
placed in a hoop shed and wrapped in fiberglass insulation kept in place with chicken wire as is done sometimes as long as it was tall enough or if an insulated box frame was placed
over it that would allow access with sliding barn door. Wrapping it in fiberglass insulation
and using chicken wire to hold the insulation would be less expensive if you used a hoop shed for it.

The videos that the Garn folks have published are extremely informative
as the owners use a couple of wheel barrow or cart loads a day according to the
testimonials by the Garn boiler Owners.

The Garn units use an induced draft circular combustion chamber in which the fire
passes through two sets of cast firebrick combustion chambers and then through
two fire tubes and then out through the horizontal flue.

The Garn units use either a custom ordered top flue or a standard horizontal flue
and the boilers have only steam as exhaust. I believe they have a six inch horizontal flue pipe.

They recommend that the horizontal flue pipe is terminated with a 90 degree elbow into a screened
barrel that has sand in the bottom of it to catch any sparks of course.


Disclaimer: I have no financial connection with the Garn Boiler folks in any way.

The Garn units are interesting, But a little more than i want to get into...
 
View attachment 296258
Thanks Again..I'm Taking Lots of notes..
What about the idea if putting it in a structure like a metal Carport ?

I love my structure over my stove. Makes it a lot more efficient I think. keeps the wind from stove. I can store almost a year's worth of wood in it. lets it season and stay dry, along with me feeding it in the weather. Build it as big as you can.
 

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