Woodland pro 63rc

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Dpearl

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Hi new to post here, but I've been reading a lot of this for him for quite a while.

Has anyone used Woodland pro 63rc for milling? I have been using stihl pmx or woodland pro micro chisel 30 lp chain to mill with my ms461 and was wonder about this woodland pro 63rc it sound like it is a full chisel? Would it cut fast?
 
Hi new to post here, but I've been reading a lot of this for him for quite a while.

Has anyone used Woodland pro 63rc for milling? I have been using stihl of woodland pro micro chisel 30 lp chain to mill with my ms461 and was wonder about this 63rc it sound like it is a full chisel?
You might direct this question to Bailey's - they're a site sponsor and sell this product. btw - what do you mean by "stihl of woodland pro"?
 
Hi new to post here, but I've been reading a lot of this for him for quite a while.

Has anyone used Woodland pro 63rc for milling? I have been using stihl of woodland pro micro chisel 30 lp chain to mill with my ms461 and was wonder about this 63rc it sound like it is a full chisel?
Welcome aboard! These threads are sometimes smooth as as a boat ride across a pond on calm day, other times ride down Colorado River Inna raft.
Depends on how wide we mill. On large diameter logs of hard wood I use square chisel skip to reduce cutting resistance, and clears chips better IMHO. Red cedar is the soft wood I mill most often and ripping chain reel I bought years ago lets me make up skip chain by grinding out every 3rd or 2 cutters 2spaces or whatever design I'd like to try. Most often as it comes from the reel for soft wood. I too am uncertain what "stihl of woodland pro" means? Enjoy, theres more wisdom than attitude most times
 
Still on the steep part of the learning curve here. Been using WoodlandPro 30RP, 30SC and 30SCS for milling hickory and sugar maple. Slabbing saw is a 576XP-AT with 32" bar in 30" Granberg mill. All these chains are semi-chisel, making for a decent surface finish.

They all work well. Could only differentiate their performance with a stop watch, and I'm too busy for that. They are all standing up well to the task. The 30RP and 30SC are full-comp; 30SCS (full-skip) makes filing simpler. Full-skip is generally considered preferable on bars >24".

One advantage I see to the 30SC and 30SCS is that, being filed to 30 deg top-plate angle, they are well-suited to normal cross-cutting too.
 
Haven't been at this too terribly long, but I tend to believe that we worry too much about which chain. I use primarily 33rp milling chain. Have also used Oregon, Carlton, Stihl and Husky chains - both semi and chisel. Square chisel leaves sharper lines for sure, but I don't believe they're any deeper than what you have with semi chisel. It's the depth of imperfections, not the general appearance, that matters the most. In fact, Stihl square chisel worked exceptionally well for me.

Summary - If I were to try a low-pro chain that'd be the first one on the list.
 
Square chisel leaves sharper lines for sure, but I don't believe they're any deeper than what you have with semi chisel. It's the depth of imperfections, not the general appearance, that matters the most.

Usually, the way newbies seem to all start sideways seesaw down a cut, stop and start cutting mid log to do various things, and fang the saw into a cut, and the lack of mill rigidity contributes much more to finish than the chain but once they have mastered that. it's the chain that males the difference.

My experience is that while square/full chisel produces the same kerf size as semi-chisel, square/full chisel does in general leave slightly deeper random scratches in the finish, especially when using well used B&C .
A pointed cutter is much more likely to randomly dig in and rock sideways on a worn bar and penetrate sideways a little more away from the bar more than a rounded cutter.
The reason it digs in is due to variations in wood hardness, changes in chain tension, and general chain sloppiness due to B&C wear and tear.

I noticed this in particular with Aussie hardwoods because the only thing I have to process wide slabs with is a 4" wide Makita belt sander and I found that to completely removed fine chain scratches I had to sand for longer on slabs cut with square/full chisel than slabs cut with semi-chisel. When belt sanding wood that is 3-4 times harder than North American softwoods this makes a big difference.

A careful operator can generate an acceptable finish with square/full chisel but it requires regular bar maintenance and close monitoring of chain tension, and extra attention to those factors I mentioned above.
 
Round chisel will dig and be rougher than square ground. I did some times cuts and square chisel over semi chisel ripping was 30% in cut times and the finish was the same.
 
Well, sounds like I should give this full chisel lopro a try. I have tried to call Bailey's a couple of times but my timing with the east coast/west thing has not worked out.

I plan on ordering some Monday and I will report my finding back.
 
63rc lopro does seem to cut faster, though I have not done head to head timed tests. That being said there was a bit of vibration and the chain broke after a 100bft. Which maybe my fault since i have no auxiliary oiler for a 30inch bar. That's on the to do list. My other lopro chains have lasted at 1500 bft before having issues.
 
Bob...Id say if you can't mill with square chisel, then you're not going to do well with semichisel either.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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